Non VVti LC vs. VVTi LC?

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CruisnPremo

CruisnPremo

Joined
Jun 17, 2024
Threads
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Reno
Greetings 100 Series LC Community,

I am a long time Landcruiser admirer and use to own a FJ40 and a FJ60. Regretfully, I sold them 10 years ago when I moved over seas for work projects.

I just returned and looking to start my love affair with the LC again. This time I'm heart set on a 100 Series LC and debating whether to go with a 2004/2005 or a 2006/2007.

I test drove a 2004 with 225K miles and 2006 with 160K miles and I honestly could not tell the difference in power delivery during acceleration. In fact, I felt that the 2006 was more sluggish than the 2004 during acceleration from zero! This is making me reconsidering a 2004/2005 instead of 2006/2007 as the later is more pricey.

Could I have just test drove a poor conditioned 2006? I'm also not a big fan of the AHC feature on the 2006/2007 as I don't see the use for it on the road or trails. Would like to hear from the community on their experience, thanks!
 
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Kabanstva said:
Silly comparing vvti and non vvti talking about power and racing lol. These cars barely keep up with kias on the road these days. Just buy the cleanest land cruiser you can find and afford and call it a day. They’re all slow dinosaurs at this point.
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I dont race. See: sarcasm.

Sure beats my NA diesel Rabbit, though.
 
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Any 100 you purchase with a 5 speed will be a good buy, though I wouldn't say you should absolutely stay away from 4 speed 98-02's. Think it's worth noting there's some extra labor when it comes to replacing TB with the VVTi's.
 
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I bought a 2006, for the added power. I also got AHC. The down side for me is I don't like the new design plastic air intake manifold (would rather have metal one), and the SAIS system is a problem imo, it's a reliability issue. Other than that like the higher gears of the transmission for fuel economy and power.

The timing belt change will be almost the same, but the cams are tighter and can spring around, kind of annoying to work with but doable. The only thing you cannot really change is the cam seals. You cannot just pry them out from the front of the engine, you need to physically take out the cam which is a huge job and not easy to do. So if your cams are leaking, it's a big job.

AHC has grown on me. Originally thought it was over designed and may fail. But it's actually reliable if you well maintain it. And it's so cool to be able to lift the truck up and down on a button, and to change the ride comfort on the go.
 
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Kabanstva said:
Yes. It makes more sense to invest into a newer model like Hoser said haha. Nonsense. It's newer after all right? Regardless if the engines blow up randomly, some before seeing their first oil change. BUT because its a newer vehicle, that's the one you should spend your money on.
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That's not what I said at all. I actually have invested more money in my older cruisers than my newer cruisers. Obviously the OP wanted a 200. "Investing $2k" on the outgoing vehicle would not yield much more on resale. Instead, put the money towards the vehicle he wants. It's rather simple.
 
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Do you need VVTi? Probably not. Is it quicker than non-VVTi’s, it sure is. Try to go back to your reasons why you wanted a purpose-built rig, prepare for compromises. I sure want an LX600 as a bug-out do-everything car from getting groceries to picking up my kindergarten daughter to impromptu solo trips in 9/10 technical trails. LCs (all series) are robust equipments. Budget is one of the top compromises. Newer and less mileage models have little maintenance (time if DYI and $$$ if you want somebody to work on it - dealership/independent service shop). Older / higher mileage would constitute more time DIYing it or more $$$ for your trusted mechanic to work on it. On a final note, wherever a VVTi 100 can go, the non-VVTi can equally do it.
 
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RAMf1 said:
My 2006 definitely has more get up and go than a 2002 when I drove them back to back. The AHC is amazing both on-road and off-road. The ride over washboard (corrugated) roads is the best, it really absorbs the bumps well...
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Thanks RAMf1, I also pulled the trigger on a 06 LC with AHC! I figured, might as well get the latest of the 100 series if I'm going to get one. :)

Questions for you since you have the same year. During my engine bay inspection, I found a loose wire at the back of the engine, near the two Heater Tees. See Pic. The Owner had no clue what that wire is for or why it was disconnected. Do yours have the same wire and is it connected to anything? Any idea what the wire is for?

Drove the LC 650 miles home and she ran strong and smooth. However, two days later, the Engine Light came ON with the VSC TRAC & VSC OFF lights also ON. I'm not sure it the Engine light is related to the loose wire??? I did replace the Fuel Cap since the original one was old and weak during closing.

Scratching my head on these two items. I'll check out the Base Lining Threads to see if I can get more info. Thanks in advance for your thoughts, Cheers!

Behind 2UZ Engine Mystery Cable.webp


VSC TRAC & VSC OFF.webp
 
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CruisnPremo said:
Thanks White Stripe for your insight. I am leaning towards the Non VVTi as the intent of this LC is to leisurely cruise the roads and trails and not race to a finish line. ;) I want reliability and not so much speed.

I did consider the FJ80s, but I wanted a V8 in my next LC and I wanted to see if I could push the LC's 4.7L V8 to 1 Million Miles like their Tundra Cousins! In the near future I am planning to get a 2019-2021 Tundra so I'll save the 5.7L V8 for the Tundra. Cheers!
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If you are prioritizing reliability over speed then go back to 02. I am biased for sure but I do believe that is the sweet spot for the 100 series. No VVTI, plastic manifolds, less emissions stuff but still newer than the 98-00 models with the rear locker which I am not a fan of.
 
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CruisnPremo said:
Thanks RAMf1, I also pulled the trigger on a 06 LC with AHC! I figured, might as well get the latest of the 100 series if I'm going to get one. :)

Questions for you since you have the same year. During my engine bay inspection, I found a loose wire at the back of the engine, near the two Heater Tees. See Pic. The Owner had no clue what that wire is for or why it was disconnected. Do yours have the same wire and is it connected to anything? Any idea what the wire is for?

Drove the LC 650 miles home and she ran strong and smooth. However, two days later, the Engine Light came ON with the VSC TRAC & VSC OFF lights also ON. I'm not sure it the Engine light is related to the loose wire??? I did replace the Fuel Cap since the original one was old and weak during closing.

Scratching my head on these two items. I'll check out the Base Lining Threads to see if I can get more info. Thanks in advance for your thoughts, Cheers!

View attachment 3663794

View attachment 3663795
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That wire should be connected to the firewall as a ground connection. Probably not related to the light but maybe

My truck has extra ground + power cable, ignore those
1719435885173.webp
 
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rexington14 said:
Even if that was the reason, wouldn't fixing & keeping an 06 make more sense than keeping a 00?

Regardless, a $2k repair is nothing for a 100 series, or any LC for that matter. What is he going to do if (when) his 200 radiator cracks, or the valley plate starts leaking, alternator fails, or whatever else can go wrong over there goes wrong? Trade for 250?
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I've done all the work on my vehicles for the past 16 years. The 06 was getting very rusty from spending the first half of it's life in Traverse City. Paid $10K, sold for $10K after 3 years. Wish I could've sold it to you so you could take care of it for eternity.
 
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NON vvti 2uzfe engines are more reliable and easier on oil. That’s the short sweet and simple explanation. You also won’t have Secondary air injection pump garbage either. Get non vvti cause it’s more simple and a less stressed engine that’s easier on oil overall
 
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White Stripe said:
The vvt is definitely much faster. Although neither are near as fast as my 80. The non vvt engineis easier to work on by a bit. I suggest getting a 200 series instead.
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200 series is when the cost cutting new age started. A uz series engine is way more reliable than any ur series
 
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Pucks18 said:
NON vvti 2uzfe engines are more reliable and easier on oil. That’s the short sweet and simple explanation. You also won’t have Secondary air injection pump garbage either. Get non vvti cause it’s more simple and a less stressed engine that’s easier on oil overall
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Where did you find this from? I've never heard of a VVTI failure and personally my '07 uses no oil over a 5000-6000 mile oil change interval and it has 300k.

Both engines are the same one just has VVTI. I've never heard of an intake manifold failure either.
 
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J1000 said:
Where did you find this from? I've never heard of a VVTI failure and personally my '07 uses no oil over a 5000-6000 mile oil change interval and it has 300k.

Both engines are the same one just has VVTI. I've never heard of an intake manifold failure either.
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I never claimed the VVTI system fails, or that it will use oil. The vvti system is inherently more complex and harder to work on the engine overall, and the vvti system is hard on oil, it abuses oil. 2uzfe went from being an engine you could actually run 12k mile oil change intervals on any cheap syn oil to a 5k mile oci candidate. VVTI also means SAIP, Dipstickless trans, and all sorts of other new age Toyota stuff. May I say plastic engine parts that previously used to be metal!?!? Haha
 
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Pucks18 said:
I never claimed the VVTI system fails, or that it will use oil. The vvti system is inherently more complex and harder to work on the engine overall, and the vvti system is hard on oil, it abuses oil. 2uzfe went from being an engine you could actually run 12k mile oil change intervals on any cheap syn oil to a 5k mile oci candidate. VVTI also means SAIP, Dipstickless trans, and all sorts of other new age Toyota stuff. May I say plastic engine parts that previously used to be metal!?!? Haha
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If you’re going for super simple, any UZ motor is not the right choice anyways.
 
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