Noise after regear

[Mlachica]

I just had a shop regear my 95 w/93k miles. I went with 4.88's - yukon reverse cut's in the front and sierra gears in the rear.

I have a slight howling noise inbetween 28-50mph from the rear. The sound is present only when my foot is on the pedal, it goes away while coasting. The gear shop re checked it and said the pattern is good. Is this something that's normal during break in?

I've only driven it about 35 miles.

 

[SR.GRINGO]

Just for a data point when I had my reiderracing 4.88's installed no noise at all. When I was researching I did read that Yukons can be noisy. You should plan on changing the diff oil again soon and check the magnetic bolts.

 

[Romer]

I noticed no noise. The rear is complicated because it has to be shimmed. Ask them how they shimmed it and determined which shim to use.

There are I think 18+ potential shim sizes that may be selected from depending on the measurements.

 

[dogcatch'n]

The gears have to be shimmed so they meet evenly, when they don't meet evenly, they will howl......

I have had issues with this [diff. howling] in other vehicals. It can be a bit annoying, but, I haven't had any negitive mechanical issues resulting from it.

It took me awhile to find a competent enough mechanic that would do the job properly the first time.

What is your opinion of your mechanic......?

 

[Mlachica]

Just for a data point when I had my reiderracing 4.88's installed no noise at all. When I was researching I did read that Yukons can be noisy. You should plan on changing the diff oil again soon and check the magnetic bolts.

Where did you read that?

I haven't found that...

I did read one post where somebody stated he heard noise in the beginning, but now it's fine. I just don't know if this is to be expected.

If the howling does persist, what negative effects are possible?

Regarding the shop. I heard from a lot of people they do good work. They talk like they do good work. My current experience doesn't live up to their reputation. If it's not fixed/handled in a professional manner I'd be glad to disclose their name so this doesn't happen to you.

On a side note, I brought the truck to them with arb's already installed and working. I brought it home and the rear arb has an air leak. My compressor doesn't turn off and the diff vent is blowing air. So that's something they need to address as well.

 

[alvarorb]

Mark,

I was told my the person who install my gears to drive the first 15 miles at low speed (less than 45 mph) and easy on the gas. Then let it rest for half an hour. Then repeat the process. After that and for the next 500 miles, not to do over 55. Once the 500 miles are up, change diff oils.

I did as he said and I had no problems. I do remember the rear making a little noise at first, but that went away.

I hope this helps.

Regards

Alvaro

 

[IBCRUSN]

Just had my gears changed with Yukon front and rear by Poser and there is no noise at all. I've put ~25 miles on so far (still at the shop) and no issues. The front diff was no warmer than usual and rear stayed pretty cool.

 

[sleeoffroad]

Question, was all the bearings replaced as well, or just some? Need all the info. There is more to changing gears than just a ring and pinion set.

 

[Mlachica]

Question, was all the bearings replaced as well, or just some? Need all the info. There is more to changing gears than just a ring and pinion set.

Whatever was included in the master install kits were used...

 

[cam75w/ls1]

Umm, I've installed probably 100+ gear sets now and none have been noisy except my first one. If you have alot of noise on acceleration then none on decel it sounds like the pinion is too deep. I've heard from some of the mechanics in my circle that a little bit of noise was heard on the installs they did and went away. If it is noticeably loud then it's wrong. You said the shop checked the diff again and it was OK. Did they pull the pumpkins??Which one is noisy?

 

[Mlachica]

How much noise is too much?

When the windows are up and the radio is off I can hear the moan above the resonator free magnaflow. One window down and I can't hear it.

I'm a little skeptical if they pulled the 3rd's out. They say they did but I don't know. How long does it take to pull the rear 3rd? And the noise is from the rear.

What's pissing me off is that they don't want to warranty the labor because I supplied my own gears instead of buying from them. Long story short is that I needed to regear asap, the soonest the shop could supply them was late april and I found a set through kurt at cruiseroutfitters. In my opinion, my 80 should not have been given back to me in this condition. They're quick to blame the parts instead of making an attempt to fix it.

I'm bringing it back tomorrow so they can inspect the rear arb (not holding air, it's blowing out of the diff vent). And they better fix the damn howl.

 

[cam75w/ls1]

If it's the rear then they may have pulled the rear cover off to inspect. Keep us posted.....

 

[sleeoffroad]

If it's the rear then they may have pulled the rear cover off to inspect. Keep us posted.....

No cover on a 95 full floater axle. So all the pinion and carrier bearings were replaced? Were they Toyota or aftermarket? Did you supply it or them? It is difficult to tell if a noise is ok or bad on a forum, but your best bet is to work with the shop. If you feel the noise is not normal, insist on a written copy of a warrantee for the period that was agreed to first.

The shop also has a point, if they have experience with a certain brand of gears for the 80 and you provided your own, then yes, they might blame the gears. Difficult one, and this illustrates one of the problems with BYOP deals.

The seal leaking on the ARB is their deal. So they will have to pull the diff and fix that. R&R is around 2 hours or so. Then the time to fix it. Have them check the preload and backlash and give you the numbers. If they did set the diff up to spec, I would also ask for a photo of the pattern, or at least be there to inspect it. If pattern is good, pinion pre-load and backlash are in spec, then it might be the gears. There is a art to setting up gears, but there are also specs. If they did it right, they should have no problem with supplying you the details.

 

[Mlachica]

Thanks for your input Christo and others.

Christo,

Where would I find the proper specs for the preload and backlash? Also what does a good pattern look like?

R&R the rear 3rd in 2hours? at 345 they said they were putting the oil in and then take it for a test drive. 415 they said it had a little howl but they reinspected the pattern which was good. Does that sound legitamate?

Thanks again...

 

[SR.GRINGO]

Where did you read that?

I haven't found that...

I did read one post where somebody stated he heard noise in the beginning, but now it's fine. I just don't know if this is to be expected.

If the howling does persist, what negative effects are possible?

Regarding the shop. I heard from a lot of people they do good work. They talk like they do good work. My current experience doesn't live up to their reputation. If it's not fixed/handled in a professional manner I'd be glad to disclose their name so this doesn't happen to you.

On a side note, I brought the truck to them with arb's already installed and working. I brought it home and the rear arb has an air leak. My compressor doesn't turn off and the diff vent is blowing air. So that's something they need to address as well.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=28884&highlight=yukon+noise

 

[cruiseroutfit]

...R&R the rear 3rd in 2hours? at 345 they said they were putting the oil in and then take it for a test drive. 415 they said it had a little howl but they reinspected the pattern which was good. Does that sound legitamate?...

As Christo pointed out, it takes at least a couple hours to R&R the rear full-float. They have to pull the rear shafts, remove the driveline, and then pull the differential for inspection.

The combination of parts used in your vehicle have been used in countless other 80 Series setups... including many here on Mud... Yukon, Sierra and Timken all manufacture excellent parts IMHO. While I'm not going to go as far as saying they are incapable of producing noise ... I will say that it is very unlikely that they will with a proper setup.

The ARB leak could be a couple of issues... most likely something to do with the o-rings themselves (could be a poorly installed seal housing). That alone will force them to pull the third member and check things out.

Keep us posted...

 

[Mlachica]

I got my truck back Friday and rebuilt the front axle Saturday with BostonManglers help...

The gear shop finally owned up to their responsibility. They pulled the rear apart - found the two o rings to be knicked and they reset the gears. They knew I was planning to rebuild my front axle on the 31st since the first time I dropped it off so when they found the bad o ring they ordered them overnight with am delivery.

After I dropped it off Monday afternoon, they called me Tuesday afternoon and offered to split the cost of labor to rebuild my arb. They wanted to charge 100 bucks for parts and about 280 to rebuild the arb and reset the gears. After asking a few simple questions I found out they haven't even taken it apart, so obviously they didn't try troubleshooting the air leak before asking me to pay for rebuilding. I told them don't even ask me for money because that's not an option for you. If anything, I'll pay for parts. Thanks to Kurt I found out these arb o rings are typically replaced during regear. One because they're cheap and easy to do, two because they're easily damaged during removal/install. I asked them how come they didn't replace them in the first place. Their reply was I supplied the parts. I explained, had I known about these arb o rings I would have gladly supplied them or told you to supply and replace them, but it was never brought to my attention.

After a lot of discussion my gears are much more quiet, almost unnoticeable and my arb's work great.

Oh and my wheel lugs were tightened at about 150 ft lb.

 

[sleeoffroad]

Yes, the shop should have replaced the O-rings. However it is not fair to expect them to do it if you brought the parts. They would have assumed you knew what parts you needed and those are the ones that you supplied.

Initially I thought you had ARB's done at the same time. Now it appears that you had them and all they did was regear. Are they an ARB dealer? Do they do a lot of ARB's. If so, yes they should have know the O-rings are susceptible to damage. If not, then they put the parts in that you supplied.


Again, prime example where byop's cause problems.

 

[Mlachica]

Very true about byop Christo. I don't like byop, but waiting until late april/may was not a good option for me.

In my defense, I spoke with the guy extensively long prior to dropping it off. He knew my situation, my knowledge level of the internals (minimal prior to rebuilding my axle this weekend). I asked him if there was anything else I need to supply other than the gears and master install kits. After further discussions I gave him oem axle seals, not once were arb seals mentioned.

But yes, Christo is right on the money about byop installs being a hassle. It's definitely not my preferred way of doing things...

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Glad to hear everything worked out Mark