no start - preparation advice needed

[Pewibo]

I was up in the north woods over the weekend and when it was time to leave, my 2000 100 would not start. She's always fired right up except when the key fob battery died. This was very similar, good strong turn over but no action. Even though the key fob battery was only a year old and the immobilizer light went off, I rode the Zuma 10 miles to Walgreens so I could test with a new battery since I had to wait 3 hours until my son got there to drive us back home anyway. That did not help and I did not have time to do much other diagnosis other than check all the fuses.
All indications point to the fuel pump - it is 27 years old and has 235,000 miles on it. I replaced the fuel filter about 8,000 miles ago.
HOWEVER, as it cranks, the CEL and the red A/T TEMP lights stay on. Is this normal? I had the transmission flushed or something when I bought it less than 20,000 miles ago, the engine was cold and the fluid looks good. Everything I read says that the A/T light will NOT stop the engine from turning over, but I just want to make sure I'm not barking up the wrong tree. It's 40+ miles to the nearest Toyota dealer. I will have to bring all the tools and the new pump up and replace it over Memorial Day weekend so if a new fuel pump doesn't fix it, I have to go back home without it again while coming up with a new plan.
Any suggestions on alternative faults? Something else I should bring up there for testing if it doesn't start?

 

[excessive]

its probably your EFI fuse contacts melted. pull the EFI fuse and have a look at the contacts

 

[Pewibo]

I pulled the EFI fuse and checked it, but did not look in the fusebox contacts. It's 157 miles away - what should I do? I see some people recommend just replacing the whole fuse box and also mention of a bypass procedure somewhere here.

 

[excessive]

well the fusebox is no longer available, so if that is your issue you will have to use the bypass method

 

[Pewibo]

If I understand this video correctly, this is required if the red immobilizer light does not turn off even when the key is present. My immobilizer light turns off when the key is in the ignition; does that mean that I don't need this?

 

[Dirt J]

If it's just the EFI fuse holder issue, the immobilizer light will go off like normal.

This is what I consider the most complete fix, even including a new fuse box.

As a temporary, get-home fix, jump a lead wire from 12+ battery terminal to the F terminal for the EFI relay. Don't leave it once you get home though, or it'll drain your battery.

 

[Pewibo]

I jump terminal F to the positive terminal of the battery and still no start. I brought up a new fuel pump so I guess that’s my next step, it’s 27 years old so it should be replaced anyway and doesn’t look that difficult.

 

[medtro]

If it's just the EFI fuse holder issue, the immobilizer light will go off like normal.

Is this a new symptom? It has not been the case for the past 10 years.

 

[medtro]

I jump terminal F to the positive terminal of the battery and still no start. I brought up a new fuel pump so I guess that’s my next step, it’s 27 years old so it should be replaced anyway and doesn’t look that difficult.

Try to start with starting fluid is a lot easier than replacing fuel pump for troubleshooting. You have fuel issue if it starts with starting fluid, otherwise you have electrical or air (vacuum leak) issue.

 

[Pewibo]

I’ll head into town later and get some starting fluid, but in the meantime I came across this online:

The Test: Watch the RPM needle on your dashboard tachometer very closely while cranking the engine. If the needle sits completely dead at absolute zero and doesn't even twitch or bounce slightly (typically it should register around 150–200 RPM while cranking), the crankshaft sensor or its wiring is likely dead.

Is that true? The tach sits at dead zero when I crank.

 

[2001LC]

Crank sensor, don't often go bad. More often. The wires to crank sensor, get cut by fan belt. When wires routed improperly. Which happens, during timing belt service or when fan bracket replaced.
This one routed wrong.

When routed in front of fan bracket, they can rub of fan belt.

I'd also, check wiring under DS rear door, between frame rail & body/sliders. To see, if a rodent has chewed any wires.

If all wires good.

Then it is very likely a bad fuel pump. I'd just replace fuel pump. At 27 years, it's past it's prime anyway.

 

[Pewibo]

I used started fluid. It didn’t start, but there was definitely a change. Maybe a “sputter”? I believe there was ignition - something made a very brief noise. Do you think I should go ahead and replace the fuel pump.

 

[medtro]

I used started fluid. It didn’t start, but there was definitely a change. Maybe a “sputter”? I believe there was ignition - something made a very brief noise. Do you think I should go ahead and replace the fuel pump.

When starting with starting fluid, the engine will not start and idle like starting with gasoline unless you have unlimited supply of starting fluid. I would try again with a bit more starting fluid. If you can see the engine running for a short time, then you have fuel issue. My first guess would be bad or poor running fuel pump.

 

[2001LC]

With tech stream, we can run fuel pump without cranking engine. It's how we preform a fuel pressure test.
FSM:
1) look for fuel leaks, and then:
2) Check that the pulsation damper, screw, rises up when fuel pump operates.

I've never tried, but. By cranking engine, fuel pump is activated. The screw should rises up, while engine is cranking. But this can be a bad pulsation damper.

Warning, fuel vapor is highly flammable. One spark is all it takes.

A next simple test, to determine if fuel pump working to building any pressure. Disconnect fuel line, at fuel filter. By pinching, the green locking clip of the down stream line (filter to fuel rail line), and pull off line from filter. If done, just after cranking engine. We should get a squirt of fuel, as line disconnected from filter relieves built-up fuel pressure.
If no squirt of fuel. Fuel pump was not running.

But unsure if a squirt, then:
Connect a catch hose to filter, and run hose to a catch can. Crank engine. No fuel in catch can, issue is with fuel circuit. If security light, goes off as key IG key inserted. Then, it is most likely a bad fuel pump.

But the FSM, next step is to check circuit to fuel pump first.

• Fusible link
• Fuses
• EFI relay
• Fuel pump
• ECM
• Wiring connection

One way to do this, is jump the fuel pump with 12V directly. Which we then bypass the fuel pump circuit. The wires housing block, is under DS rear door by frame rail. Still no fuel, 98% chance, it's the fuel pump. 2% chance wire between that last wire housing block and top of fuel tank/pump, was damaged/Chew.

But I rarely jump fuel with 12 Volts directly. If no fuel pumps out, no security light, no wire cut/chewed that I can see. I just replace the fuel pump. At ~20 year old and ~250K miles. Fuel pumps are tired. 10 out of 10 times, it has just been fuel pump.

Note:
06-07, also have a different tell, when fuel pump bad. They can just stop pumping (crank no start), like above. But most are thought to be, vapor lock. i.e. Engine dies after driving in high RPM on hot day. RPM drop back, engine dies. Let them cool 10 minutes and they'll work, until next hot high RPM event.

 

[2001LC]

There is one trick not mentioned before in this thread. Pinch off return line. This results in increase pressure in fuel rail. If pump working, but weak flow/pressure. Engine may start and or pulsation damper screw, may then raise while cranking.
But be aware/warning. Some if not all years 100 series. Have a hard plastic tube cover by soft rubber, return fuel line. Pinching the return, can damage the hard inner plastic core. If pinched to hard or on a cold day.

Pulsation damper screw

Red arrow points to green locking clip, on fuel line at fuel filter. Yellow to fuel filter.

Jump fuel pump w/12volts

 

[Pewibo]

I put the new fuel pump in and she fired right up. Thanks for all the advice.
FYI I ordered the OEM fuel pump from Olathe Toyota in Olathe KS for $364, 33% off list - my local dealer sells at list. However, it is listed on the website as “Fuel Pump and Strainer Set” but it’s just the pump; it came without the strainer. I complained but it has not been resolved yet. It’s still a great price. I just bought a Denso strainer from Rock Auto.