No brakes, new twist

[hikerfisher]

Towed my 2006 LX behind my RV using my Ready Brute elite brake system- basically just a cable hooked to the LX brake pedal- cable pulls on LX pedal when RV brake is engaged. Towed 150 miles today, then LX brake pedal goes to floor.

Any suggestions or experience? Master cylinder is full, no obvious leaks anywhere.

 

[Bisho]

Your LX needs to have key on to power the brake booster. After 20 or so pedal pushes it will go to the floor.

 

[hikerfisher]

Your LX needs to have key on to power the brake booster. After 20 or so pedal pushes it will go to the floor.

Thanks-but not sure what you’re suggesting. I’ve pumped the brake pedal many times, both with key in ignition (off), and key in ignition on (engine not started), and no difference really- pedal to the floor. I did disconnect the battery while I was towing- did this cause my issue??

 

[2001LC]

Most likely booster motor failure. FSM has a jump motor with 12 Volt test.
Condition of control wire leeds and brake fluid color and reservoir staining, can yield clues.

Brakes ...... Overdue write-up.

First and foremost: Brakes should only be worked by those, with high level of mechanical abilities and experienced with brake systems. With the age of all 100 series today, in our aging fleet. Any issue, with brake master assembly. IMHO, best and safest course of action. Have the whole brake...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[take123]

I bled my brakes on the weekend.

I had key in OFF and after a few pumps it went to the floor, and it was not bleeding out.

You need set the KEY to “ON”, ie not need turn on the engine but have the radio on and lights come on the dash, like have the battery turn on the electronics but starter has not engaged the engine yet. This will them provide power to the brake master and you will get pumping action. So this requires the battery to be connected or else it will be the same as OFF.

If your pedal is going to the floor and you exhausted all the fluid out the master, when you turn it ON, give the master around 32-40 seconds to fill back up, it will make a buzzing sound meaning the motor is working. Don’t press brake until its done buzzing.

Don’t press the brakes too much or too fast repeatedly (ie 10 times), while the key is in ON or else the brake will start making an alarm sound for a little bit , it will shut off soon.

 

[GremlinMobile]

Most likely booster motor failure. FSM has a jump motor with 12 Volt test.
Condition of control wire leeds and brake fluid color and reservoir staining, can yield clues.

Brakes ...... Overdue write-up.

First and foremost: Brakes should only be worked by those, with high level of mechanical abilities and experienced with brake systems. With the age of all 100 series today, in our aging fleet. Any issue, with brake master assembly. IMHO, best and safest course of action. Have the whole brake...

forum.ih8mud.com

He said he unhooked the battery when he towed....and you're suggesting his booster motor failed? lol

 

[Hulsty]

Start it up, they should come back fine, you cant use the system you have for operating the vehicle brakes in tow.

 

[2001LC]

He said he unhooked the battery when he towed....and you're suggesting his booster motor failed? lol

LOL -- I did assume during his test, battery connected. He said: "key in ignition on (engine not started)" "Pedal to the floor" Not sure why anyone would think IG key on without a battery would do anything.

The engine does not need to be running. Just needs 12 volts to brake master.

Thanks-but not sure what you’re suggesting. I’ve pumped the brake pedal many times, both with key in ignition (off), and key in ignition on (engine not started), and no difference really- pedal to the floor. I did disconnect the battery while I was towing- did this cause my issue??