new Slee Sliders and African Outback Rack

[tabraha]

Anyway, with Slee (and others like Kaymar and TJM) having a quick facility for removing the tire carrier when using the truck for daily driving, I don't see why you can't have the best of both worlds.

No doubt. I'll save the tire carrier for trails and the OEM mount for DD. Glad to hear it's easy to remove and put on.

 

[sleeoffroad]

There are a couple of issues with making a quick connect tire carrier. One is the spindle cap. The spindle cap could be replaced with a machined cap that screws in. Catch is that it would take a $1 part to a $25 or more part. So the price increases.


Removing the cotter pin and nut etc is easy, but now you have have to deal with the spindle being exposed. So that means we have to make a sleave that screws on seals it from the environment. Another low volume high cost part to make, or you have a. dummy hub. Again cost.

In addition, you have to disconnect the lights for the license plate and any antenna's/ backup lights you have on it.

Granted one could put quick connects on all the electrical connections. but the catch is the license plate itself, unless you figure a way to mount it to the bumper instead of the carrier. I could not without it being prone to damage.

So, yes it could be done, but will add to the cost.

 

[sleeoffroad]

This might have already been asked but how is towing affected by the slee bumper if at all? It doesn't mention anything on the website.

You can still install the factory tow hitch with the bumper. However that requires longer hardware. The receiver on the bumper itself is not rated for towing.

 

[sleeoffroad]

PS, we are working on producing a bumper only./

 

[dclee]

There are a couple of issues with making a quick connect tire carrier. One is the spindle cap. The spindle cap could be replaced with a machined cap that screws in. Catch is that it would take a $1 part to a $25 or more part. So the price increases.


Removing the cotter pin and nut etc is easy, but now you have have to deal with the spindle being exposed. So that means we have to make a sleave that screws on seals it from the environment. Another low volume high cost part to make, or you have a. dummy hub. Again cost.

In addition, you have to disconnect the lights for the license plate and any antenna's/ backup lights you have on it.

Granted one could put quick connects on all the electrical connections. but the catch is the license plate itself, unless you figure a way to mount it to the bumper instead of the carrier. I could not without it being prone to damage.

So, yes it could be done, but will add to the cost.

Thanks Christo. This sounds very similar to my old Kaymar setup. I wasn't talking necessarily a "quick disconnect" but it certainly isn't difficult as is. Pop the spindle cap, pull the cotter pin, unscrew the castle nut, pull off the carrier (reverse to install). May take a few minutes, but I figure when I'm preparing for a trip or cleaning up after returning from one, a few extra minutes is nothing.

For the exposed spindle, I know Kaymar makes a cover that screws on, but couldn't you just coat it lightly with grease and then just put on a nut to protect the threads?

Also, haven't looked in the legality of this yet, but can you get a second license plate for the rear, and keep one permanently mounted on the carrier and one permanently mounted on the truck itself for when you don't have the carrier mounted?

Thanks,

 

[Greg B]

Keeping the spare underneath is still a big drag on departure angle. Also, you can't add a second gas tank unless you use the small OEM one.

Anyway, with Slee (and others like Kaymar and TJM) having a quick facility for removing the tire carrier when using the truck for daily driving, I don't see why you can't have the best of both worlds.

1. It doesn't affect the departure angle that much if you raise the tire higher and use a 255x85 like I plan to do. Plus the skid plate will allow me to slide off anything I plan to do.

2. Don't ever plan on adding a second gas tank. I don't see the need for it in the US. Too many gas stations to pick from and would rather spend the $ on something else.

3. I doubt it is as quick as you think. You have to remove the spare, then take off the carrier, then mount the spare underneath. Too much time spent for something that is trivial in my opinion.

4. Cost. The non-carrier version is about $800 difference in cost. I can buy an ARB locker for that much money.

Again, I'm not saying you shouldn't get one; I just don't see much need for it and wouldn't want to deal with the carrier when trying to access the rear door.

 

[Landpimp]

I thought I looked my 100 to see if you could raise it(like I did MANY years ago) on my 80) But maybe I was looking at a 60/2.......guess I need to look at the 100 again

1. It doesn't affect the departure angle that much if you raise the tire higher and use a 255x85 like I plan to do. Plus the skid plate will allow me to slide off anything I plan to do.

.

 

[hoser]

I think the advantage is not so much due to the fact that a 35" won't fit under the vehicle

Somebody mentioned that you can fit a 35" tire under the 100 as long as you don't have a tow hitch. Anybody else try it? A 35x9.5-16 spare tire would be nice. The skinniest 35" radial I could find is the Super Swamper TSL in a 35x10.5-16

 

[ChuckB]

You can still install the factory tow hitch with the bumper. However that requires longer hardware. The receiver on the bumper itself is not rated for towing.

Thanks Christo!!

 

[tabraha]

Somebody mentioned that you can fit a 35" tire under the 100 as long as you don't have a tow hitch. Anybody else try it? A 35x9.5-16 spare tire would be nice. The skinniest 35" radial I could find is the Super Swamper TSL in a 35x10.5-16

Wooh I bet that would be one squirrely tire. My 34's are a little squirmy feeling at first but then I get sorta used to it. Bias plies and deep tread wiggling = no canyon carving in the LX (it's all relative)

 

[dclee]

1. It doesn't affect the departure angle that much if you raise the tire higher and use a 255x85 like I plan to do. Plus the skid plate will allow me to slide off anything I plan to do.

2. Don't ever plan on adding a second gas tank. I don't see the need for it in the US. Too many gas stations to pick from and would rather spend the $ on something else.

3. I doubt it is as quick as you think. You have to remove the spare, then take off the carrier, then mount the spare underneath. Too much time spent for something that is trivial in my opinion.

4. Cost. The non-carrier version is about $800 difference in cost. I can buy an ARB locker for that much money.

Again, I'm not saying you shouldn't get one; I just don't see much need for it and wouldn't want to deal with the carrier when trying to access the rear door.

OK, difference in philosophy, I guess.

1.) Ah, the skinny tire. I tend to go fatter, but that's a personal issue...

2.) You've obviously never been to the Mojave.

3.) Sure it is. I did it many times when I had the Kaymar on my 80. In this case, I wouldn't be doing it every day, only as part of preparation for big trips. If I can spend two hours packing and another two hours at the grocery store, I can certainly afford ten minutes to put the spare on the back.

4.) Only a $400 difference if you go with Kaymar or TJM. As far as that goes, why not skip the bumper altogether and save yourself $2000? It's all in one's priorities.

My $0.02,

 

[hoser]

Wooh I bet that would be one squirrely tire. My 34's are a little squirmy feeling at first but then I get sorta used to it. Bias plies and deep tread wiggling = no canyon carving in the LX (it's all relative)

Tad, the TSL's I was referring to are Radials and not bias-ply. Should be less squirrely than the LTB's. I know people who run them on the street all the time.

 

[tabraha]

Tad, the TSL's I was referring to are Radials and not bias-ply. Should be less squirrely than the LTB's. I know people who run them on the street all the time.

Gotcha and yeah, the radial will make a huge difference on road manners.

 

[Greg B]

OK, difference in philosophy, I guess.

4.) Only a $400 difference if you go with Kaymar or TJM. As far as that goes, why not skip the bumper altogether and save yourself $2000? It's all in one's priorities.

My $0.02,

Will only go with the Slee rear bumper. I like it the best. I think it has great lines and is well built. I like the recovery point options on it and think it protects the rear of the vehicle very well. Can't skip the rear bumper altogether; I want the protection of steel and it's not $2000 without the carrier. I definitely agree with you on one's priorities and a difference in philosophy though.

 

[dclee]

Will only go with the Slee rear bumper.

Cool. I like Christo's stuff, definately well-made. Can't go wrong there, whether you carry the spare on the tail or not!

 

[Greg B]

All I can really say is, both are top notch products, built very very well, fit perfect, look and work wonderfull. The sliders are just incredible......they look like they are part of the 100.......like what it should have had all along, nice work Christo

I have to chime in on Pimp's comments. Pictures just don't do Christo's products justice. The quality of these sliders are fantastic. I come from a Rover background and have bought bumpers, sliders, etc. from several companies like Safari-Gard and Rovertym and they just pale in comparison to Slee's. These sliders are much stouter than they appear in pics and the welds and finish are really nice too. Same goes for the diff drop kit; it too is very well made. Nice job Christo

 

[spressomon]

I'd love to report on how much I love my new Slee rear bumper...when I get it Christo But seriously Christo and his sidekick Ben are good guys that seem real upfront and offer really good value...not to mention good advice when your knuckles are bloody and in need of a better way of doing things...what more can you ask for?

 

[Landpimp]

thought I would update this.

I took off the full rail and got a 1/2(more like 1/3) rail from Slee, added the shovel and Hi Lift holders. I really need to figure out how to work it to carry a full size handle....as that is what I prefer to use for why I got a shovel on my 100. I think I see how......just havn't messed with it yet. Also the correct way to hold the handle is backwards from the way mine is.......becuase the handle is too small to go over the bracket(but i think it ment to work both way)

Neither rattle at ALL.

I like the look and function of the 1/2 rail better, was actaully thinking a 1/2 rail on each end would look neat.....but it would not serve my needs as well.

LOVE the rack, been packing 4x4" posts and signs and crap up there alot.

Adding the acc's can be a bit of a trick..........but I figured it out, really neat attachement system. Never did figure out how the L shaped bracket for the front of the Hi Lift attacment worked.....but I used one of those poly holder things......works great.

 

[NMuzj100]

Here in ABQ the first thing I would add to that set up is some armored locks so your tools don't "walk off".

Nice set up. Of course matching paint on the Hi-lift "al la Shotts" would be the real hi-class touch. Call it urban camoflage so the tools don't stand out.

 

[Landpimp]

frankly I would rather leave easy and semi cheap stuff in the open so it CAN be stolen......rather have punk walk off with a shover or a hilift than brake into the interior for better stuff...........

no matching paint on my tool please

Here in ABQ the first thing I would add to that set up is some armored locks so your tools don't "walk off".

Nice set up. Of course matching paint on the Hi-lift "al la Shotts" would be the real hi-class touch. Call it urban camoflage so the tools don't stand out.