New F & 2F carbs

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Little help and advice please. I bought this intake manifold on Ebay two years ago when the only thing I knew about FJ40's was it was going to cost me a lot of money to get my registered. So I sent the manifold and new MAF 6-1 header to Seattle for ceramic coating. Now I am preparing to use (presuming I buy the engine in Quito next week) these items. I set the new carb on the intake manifold and see that I have clearance issues with the tube that is installed in the carb spacer. Cannot face "up" at the rear as it hits the linkage. Cannot face down at the rear as it hits the linkage to the idle adjusting screw. At the front it cannot be installed up as it hits a long rod that passes through the carburetor. My old 1 bbl doesn't have anything like that shaft. Does anyone know what it goes to? I am "assuming" that the tube on the carb spacer is where the PCV hose will attach. I have Dorman rubber caps on the two intake manifold fittings, the larger of which I will presume is used for a power brake booster. Thanks.
Read the directions on the first page of this thread. You need to cut that metal rod. Just cut mine with no issues
 
Pictures of the new carb... thanks Marshall!

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Read the directions on the first page of this thread. You need to cut that metal rod. Just cut mine with no issues
I just went through the first ten pages, again, and didn't see anything about cutting the rod but I agree with you, if you don't have anything connected to it, cut it. So when I see the setup on the 1983 FJ60 2F I'm going to look at in Quito next Monday I'll know how to proceed. Fingers crossed this motor is what the fellow says it is and will be in The Beast in mid-May. Thanks for responding. Lenny.
 
I just went through the first ten pages, again, and didn't see anything about cutting the rod but I agree with you, if you don't have anything connected to it, cut it. So when I see the setup on the 1983 FJ60 2F I'm going to look at in Quito next Monday I'll know how to proceed. Fingers crossed this motor is what the fellow says it is and will be in The Beast in mid-May. Thanks for responding. Lenny.
sorry i thought i read it earlier - see post number #1390 through #1394
 
Got it, thanks. No plan for A/C. The fellow who has the engine I'm going to look at wrote and said that another fellow has a complete heater setup for $80. I'll check that out, don't really need A/C or a heater down here, but a defroster would be a real plus.
 
Another Trollhole happy customer. While my "new" engine won't be installed until the 18th I am working on making sure everything is ready to go. So today I installed my new carburetor. Very straightforward installation. My air cleaner is a little bit jury rigged at the moment, but functional. The 2F and F are very similar, but not quite exactly the same. But once it pumped gasoline to the carburetor it fired right up and settled into a smooth idle with no adjustments. It was dark and I was finishing up under a drop light so will wait until tomorrow to have the wife hold the pedal down so I can check that the carb is fully opened and then take a test drive. This install makes it easier for the mechanic who will change the motors. Also attached is a photo of a 1974 Land Rover that is receiving a ground up restoration. This project has been underway for about a year. This is the shop that does the "heavy" work on The Beast.

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Today I spent a little time revising some wiring preparing for the new engine installation as the oil pressure switch is on the other side of the engine. A firm believer in leaving crumbs in the forest it took a little time but is ready for the change. So I took a test drive and am very impressed. I made zero adjustments to the carburetor, simply assured that I had a little slack in my cable and that the throttle fully opened when the pedal is too the metal. It idles smooth, runs smooth and even on this tired old F engine I could feel a difference. The last couple of miles coming home are dirt road, more rocks than dirt, and hilly. Enough so that I usually do the last half in 1st gear. Today I drove it all in 2nd gear, nice. So I took it off and put the old 1 bbl back on. Another week before the engine change but if you have any questions or doubts, read the responses, this is a great carburetor and a good deal as well. Thanks Marshall!
 
I have a 1972 FJ55 all stock under the hood. Trying to get a carb to replace mine can't figure out even after rebuild why it's not working correctly but wondering if you have carbs for the stock F engine if so how much are they running so I can get one on order so I will be able to drive this beast around.
 
@Walkerm916: My 1970 FJ40 is stock under the hood and I had no problems fitting Marshall's carburetor to the motor. I'm not familiar with the FJ55 so don't know if it is linkage or cable throttle, mine is cable. My "wire" was set up (by me) as a female/male bullet connection and it was a piece of cake to revise the supplied wire to suit. Also on my F the fuel inlet is on the forward side of the carburetor as is the new carburetor so once again no issue. Since my rig is a 1bbl carburetor the air cleaner was an issue, however, I am swapping in a 2F next monday and have that air cleaner to retrofit.
 
I was thinking about swapping in a 2F into my 55 and I know a place online I can get a direct fit for my cruiser for850 completely rebuilt. The only issue I will have is the fact that I would want to get a 4 speed transmission for it and that's going to put me in a position of not having the money to do the swap. I will send you pics of my current set up and from there we will know what is positioned where as far as the carb goes.
 
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Here are photos of my carb just need to know if it will fit for me.
 
Piece of cake for you all in all. You will have to do something about the fuel inlet, which is also a great opportunity to add a second fuel filter. You already have the 2bbl so your air filter is no issue. Go for it, the best $315 you'll ever spend. I'm jealous of your $850 opportunity. The engine I just bought cost me $3K.
 
I'll get with you on the payment for the carb just trying to work out exactly what I am going to go with because I won't need it if I stick with the F and if I go with the 2F I will need a different carb setup for it.
 
you won't need a different carb. Engine changes but your pedal linkage will stay the same right? so keep your current intake and carb during the swap and your life will be much easier
 
My carb will work. Couple mods you will need to make. Cut the primary shaft on my carb so it doesn't interfere with yout PVC tube. Gently bend your fuel line so it connects to the front. I do it all the time. Mount the air cleaner. You will need to use a stud to hold the carb down. I drill a hole in the top of the air cleaner and then use a stud. Your cable will fit my cable carb I sell for 315.
 

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