New bolt-in version of the seat box. (1 Viewer)

[tat2matt]

I'm not a business major but I am a consumer and I would say HONESTLY they are worth $750-$800 plus freight. I know how great your quality is and how well made your stuff is. I spent a good 4 hours and about $40 in materials making my seat brackets and I still don't really like them. So figure that ANYONE that wants some custom seats are going to spend SOME money and time what's it worth to them to be able to bolt in a storage solution AND be able to basicly drop in any seats they want. I say charge what WE your consumers feel they are worth. Seeing i'm 3rd in line I i'm budgeting $750 and shipping and if you don't like it I will send the money to AMY!

 

[kevinmrowland]

Thanks for the support, but fair is fair Matt. ;p

I try and price all this stuff out as fair as possible, not really into the charge-what-the-market-will-bear thing. Too many of us work too hard for our funds to do that. I'm pretty happy with the value offered by the seat boxes, they turned out well, should be a good starting point for a lot of projects and are fairly simple to instal.

I know what you can do Matt, take what you budgeted for the seat boxes and the flip windows, combine that, take away the 600 for the seats and you still wont have enough left to cover the windows.

(I'm working on that breakdown now)

I got indian docs set wrapped up yesterday, they really turned out nice, took some photos and made some videos to help explain some of the details.



First up I want to show everyone the new super-simple/super-strong latching setup.

Closed:

Open:

You can see the latch rod sitting in front of the box, it goes all the way through the lid and catches on both sides of the structure.

Detail:

The plate on the out side is an adjuster plate to make up for any tweaks from bolting the lid into the floor, and having the catch plate on the outside lets me have the DOM tube go all the way across the front of the lid for reinforcement.

 

[kevinmrowland]

I used Docs lid as an example to make some videos as well.

Please note, I only just recently broke down and joined the iPhone crowd, these videos suck, take your epilepsy medication before sitting down to watch them.


General bolt-in overview:




Video about the carpet and floor prep stuff:




Also one other thing to note about the floor prep, in addition to the removal of all the brackets there is a little notch that needs to be cut out of the front floor brace, here:

And the matching spot on the other side as well.

The notches need to be there to clear the front corner of the lid recess.

It's noted in the crappy floor prep video as well.

 

[kevinmrowland]

Couple other things to note:

I talk a bit about the geometry of the box and some things to keep in mind for seat mounting here:



Quick note about the hand brake boot:



An overview of the construction details:



And lastly some notes and things to keep in mind if you are planning on long-arms storage:

That's it for now.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Brilliant Kevin, good work

Doesn't your DLSR do video?

 

[kevinmrowland]

Naw, that would be nice but I've got a pretty old camera body and it was bottom of the line back then.

I promise I'll figure out how to make better videos.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Naw, that would be nice but I've got a pretty old camera body and it was bottom of the line back then.

I promise I'll figure out how to make better videos.

The videos aren't that bad!

I find that my phone takes the best videos with lots of indirect light. Make sure that the subject is well lit and that your back is to the sun / sky. Helps eliminate washing out.

 

[kevinmrowland]

Actually, I'm quite pleased with the quality of the videos considering what's taking them.
It's me I have the problem with.
At least if it was my SLR I could use the tripod to keep me from moving the damn camera all over the place constantly. Tried to Velcro the phone to the ball head on the tripod but it was tough to get it pointed at the right angles.

 

[IndianDoc]

HOT XXXX that is perfection if I ever saw it, you even used a similar rifle to the one that will live quite a bit of it's life in there. A Marlin 45-70 in SS with a holo sight. Can't wait!!!!! PM sent

 

[Spike Strip]

Holy crap that's nice !

How many quarters and french fries do you think will end up down the E-brake slot ?

 

[kevinmrowland]

HOT XXXX that is perfection if I ever saw it, you even used a similar rifle to the one that will live quite a bit of it's life in there. A Marlin 45-70 in SS with a holo sight. Can't wait!!!!! PM sent

Good! I was hoping it would work with what you had planned.
We have to talk about what you want for a lock as well. There will be two options, a padlock tab or a cylinder lock. The padlock tab would need to be on the top of the lid, would be strong and simple but there is a chance it could interfere with certain types of seats. The cylinder lock would go on the end between the latch plate and the gas shock, lower security, but simple. Locks only keep honest people honest anyway....

Holy crap that's nice !

How many quarters and french fries do you think will end up down the E-brake slot ?

I will refer you to video #4 here:
http://www.youtube.com/user/WagonGear?feature=mhee

I posted it above as well.

 

[Spike Strip]

Ah, you're way ahead, as usual ...

 

[IndianDoc]

Would not be to hight teck but what about a simple hasp that would hang the lock in front not on top. But if it is going to interfear with the seat a cylinder lock would be ok. I've still got my colt 45, on me, to discourage any lock breakage.

 

[kevinmrowland]

Guess what, another video!


I figured this would be easier than a whole lot of typing:
Some thoughts on locks and locations:

 

[IndianDoc]

OK how about a lock on the rod itself then the padlock would be on the side. Seems to me if that rod is locked in place there is no way to pry up either side and accidental removal of the rod is less likley , if I took the doors off to cool down on a hot trail. (not very likley I like the ac too much but just thinking out loud.
A simple pin welded to the adjustable base with a appropriate hole in a flat plate at the base of the rod ball would allow a good lock to retain that rod. Hummmmm!

 

[kevinmrowland]

Haha. Jaxon sent me the same basic suggestion
I should have pointed out that there is only just enough room on the end of the box for the ball knob, a padlock won't fit.

I really think a hook cam key cylinder will do the trick.

 

[IndianDoc]

Haha. Jaxon sent me the same basic suggestion
I should have pointed out that there is only just enough room on the end of the box for the ball knob, a padlock won't fit.

I really think a hook cam key cylinder will do the trick.

You the boss, I know not to argue with you about such items. Anyway I doubt that I will lock it much but I do want that capacity if needed. Cylinder and key is fine by me!!!! From the poet who don't know it. LMAO

 

[IndianDoc]

Brackets out

Getting ready for the arrival of a new seating arrangement. Brackets out , actually most of the insulation is in just did not get a pic of that yet.



By the way if your interested I had to put the seat back in for a trip to town and all I had changed was the overhead was insulated and three coats of the spectrum sound deadining paint from second skin. When I frist saw the stuff I said yeah right this stuff will not do a thing. Boy was I wrong Already most of the wine from the AA gears is gone , and I can not hear the rumble/hum of the fuel pump anymore unless I really concentrate. And I still have the heat shield and the foam damper layers to add on the floor. Me thinks it's going to be real quiet now.



It's funny that stuff is purple out of the can : I thought my god I'm glad it's going to be covered up, but it dries(real quick) to black. Thank goodness didn't want to be bar ney even under the carpet.

 

[kevinmrowland]

Awesome, don't forget to trim the corner where this wire loom is attached:

View attachment 675004

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Where's you get the spectrum liner?