New Battery Cables (1 Viewer)

John Staton

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So my alternator went out the other day and it had a warranty so while they replaced it today I went ahead and had them replace my battery cables. I bought a kit from someone on here and had planned to do it myself and that was at least a year ago. Anyway, I do have some slow starts and also my car would run rougher with the AC on as the RPMs would drop to 500 or just under (weber carb, no amplifier). Anyway, replacing those cables made a world of difference in how fast it starts and idles. I have experimented in starting it with my lights on and my AC compressor on while starting (bypassed amplifer so it its on, its on). Doesn't skip a beat. A very worthwhile upgrade. Only thing is I cannot remember who I bought them from, but I know someone can call that out when they look at the pic.

FJBatterycables.jpg

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Spook50

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Good looking 60. I did my own variation of the "big 3" upgrade many years ago with welding cable, but added a 4 gauge cable to more directly ground the alternator housing, a 1 gauge cable for the starter positive and another directly from the starter ground to the chassis. Same as you, made a huge difference in available power to the starter.

I'm actually going to redo my charging cable to follow a much cleaner route around the engine compartment to the battery positive, and go from the 1/0 cable I have in there now to a more easily manageable 2 gauge welding cable (which is still rated to handle 200A up to 75'; I'll be going not even 15' with a 120A capacity alternator).
 

ToyotaMatt

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Good looking 60. I did my own variation of the "big 3" upgrade many years ago with welding cable, but added a 4 gauge cable to more directly ground the alternator housing, a 1 gauge cable for the starter positive and another directly from the starter ground to the chassis. Same as you, made a huge difference in available power to the starter.

I'm actually going to redo my charging cable to follow a much cleaner route around the engine compartment to the battery positive, and go from the 1/0 cable I have in there now to a more easily manageable 2 gauge welding cable (which is still rated to handle 200A up to 75'; I'll be going not even 15' with a 120A capacity alternator).

Can i have the Privilege Mr. Spook to Hand Craft and Custom Taylor you new Cables using 100% oem toyota genuine parts , with

exception to my trusty ANCHOR marine Tinned Fine strand cable ......



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John Staton

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Looks like the fourrunner kit, have one and it is a great improvement.
I am pretty sure it was a Fourtunner kit....I poked around so I could give them a plug but didn't find them. Anyway, was well worth the $$. I was thinking my starter maybe needed to be rebuilt or something, but it just needed some more juice...these cables did the trick.
 

MoaByte

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I put @ToyotaMatt 's cables in two weeks ago. Its like my 60 just had some espresso! It fires with a bump of the starter and seems to run better too. The quality is superb. I really hated looking at the corrosion on the positive repacement terminal and the rounded off hardware on the clamps. I just wanted to express my gratitude.
 

ToyotaMatt

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I put @ToyotaMatt 's cables in two weeks ago. Its like my 60 just had some espresso! It fires with a bump of the starter and seems to run better too. The quality is superb. I really hated looking at the corrosion on the positive repacement terminal and the rounded off hardware on the clamps. I just wanted to express my gratitude.

im very humbled thanks 😇

can you post a few photos of them installed here or PM them to me or ........?
 

Ocho77

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Put the Fourrunner kit on our 60 and 62. Made a huge difference in starting and overall amp draw. I was surprised at the results.
 

Spook50

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Can i have the Privilege Mr. Spook to Hand Craft and Custom Taylor you new Cables using 100% oem toyota genuine parts , with

exception to my trusty ANCHOR marine Tinned Fine strand cable ......



View attachment 2443629


I've got a lot of accessories pulling power, so a lot of wires connected to my battery. As it is, the military terminals and my welding cables for primary power are the best way for me to keep it clean. I do need to replace a couple of the smaller power lead ring terminals though because repeated removal and reinstallation has torn them up pretty good. Honestly I wish I had a good spot to mount a power distribution block, but a 62's engine bay leaves little room for expansion. What I freed up by desmogging has been taken up by the Mallory 6AL box and space kept open for a future second battery.
 

OSS

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If you really want the engine to jump to life when cranking it over in the morning (especially a cold morning) get an AGM battery. I had used wet cell batteries for 20 years in my cruiser and the engine cranked over ok with them - but when I got an AGM - Holy Cow- starting was a whole new affair. Engine would crank much faster and jump to life - especially in cold weather.
I remember starting the engine for the first time on a freezing morning with the new AGM battery after camping for a week and the starter cranked over really fast and the engine jumped to life. Vroom! I remember thinking... My wet cell batteries NEVER did that.
 

Spook50

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If you really want the engine to jump to life when cranking it over in the morning (especially a cold morning) get an AGM battery. I had used wet cell batteries for 20 years in my cruiser and the engine cranked over ok with them - but when I got an AGM - Holy Cow- starting was a whole new affair. Engine would crank much faster and jump to life - especially in cold weather.
I remember starting the engine for the first time on a freezing morning with the new AGM battery after camping for a week and the starter cranked over really fast and the engine jumped to life. Vroom! I remember thinking... My wet cell batteries NEVER did that.
Yep AGM can release power much faster than a wet cell. That's also why car audio enthusiasts prefer AGM as well. Just a better overall technology than wet cell for the most part.
 
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Question for anyone that's installed the Fourrunner cables. I bought a set last week and started the install today. The positive side was a breeze. Hit a bit of a wall trying to get the negative cable removed from the engine mount. It's a super tight clearance and I cannot seem to break the nut free. Even if I get it, I'm not sure there is the clearance to get the nut off to remove the negative cable. I feel like I'm missing something simple here. Appreciate any input from someone that's done it.

 

Seth S

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You don’t have to run the new cable to the motor mount. Anywhere on the engine will work fine. Just wire brush or sand the mount surface clean before you put it on with a bolt.
 
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@Beat Navy
Yeah, it is pain and Seth S is right. I did get it using some contortions and a flip ratcheting combination wrench.

Totally worth it. Just wait till you twist the key the first time.
 

Seth S

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In fact what you could do is leave the old one bolted to the motor mount like it is and find another place to attach the other end to the frame. You may need to put an eyelet connector on the opposite end. Then you could run a new wire from anywhere on the engine to the battery etc.
 

MoaByte

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I put mine in the stock location. I just had to loosen the ac compressor to get access to the bolt. If I had known, I would have run it to the dogleg bolt. I haven't yet attached the two smaller gauge grounds.
 

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