FMC80
SILVER Star
It’s just money.
New 80 owner
- Thread starter AN470
- Start date
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QFT
- Thread starter
- #23
Block is disassembled. 2 bearings had some pretty deep scratches, glad I went forward with this. Lots of new OEM parts including injectors $$$. Crank and pistons look brand new. Bottom end is staying factory.
The head is getting a port and polish, port matching the intake and exhaust. Larger valves, cams, etc are just diminishing returns for this application and my intended use.
The head is getting a port and polish, port matching the intake and exhaust. Larger valves, cams, etc are just diminishing returns for this application and my intended use.
Welcome, if i were you, i would just sell the 100. No sense of having 2 similar trucks to do the same thing. Most ppl i know in Socal either continue to dump money on the 100s to make it semi- capable or get rid of it and put the money on the 80. You won't be going up the grapevine doing 75, in the 80, but you also won't break s*** trying to do John Bull or Gold Mountain with your 80s on 35s...
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- #25
Haha yes. We'll see how it goes. It's going to be super tight fitting 3-4 adults plus a baby, plus gear, plus baby stuff, all in one vehicle. Don't want a trailer. This was my lame excuse for buying an 80 
Debating between R1S vs. 200 series vs. LX600 for wifes DD. Will definitely sell the 100 if she gets a 200.
Debating between R1S vs. 200 series vs. LX600 for wifes DD. Will definitely sell the 100 if she gets a 200.
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- #26
Update and pics. Rebuild is done. Went a little overboard, about 5-6k in OEM parts.
Tiny portion of total parts ordered. The (6) parts in the bottom right corner hurt the most.
Bad rod bearings
Ported and polished head (useful in case I ever go SC)
Tiny portion of total parts ordered. The (6) parts in the bottom right corner hurt the most.
Bad rod bearings
Ported and polished head (useful in case I ever go SC)
- Thread starter
- #27
Random pics:
- Thread starter
- #28
Update - I have about 200 miles on the new motor, runs great, no issues. Feels a little more powerful than before. Not sure if that's the port/polish or just the newly rebuilt motor. Or the placebo effect.
I replaced all the instrument cluster lights. Found the cause of the no airbag light on startup. SRS light pin #8 I think, was pulled from the airbag sensor harness. Plugged it back in and now it stays on permanently! I'm getting a DTC 14 code. Will try to reset it and see what happens. I believe the clockspring was recently replaced by PO but not OEM. That would be my first step if the light comes back after the reset.
Also swapped out the steering wheel for one in like new condition and got some LS visors. Next up is a new LSPV, fluids for TC and diffs, scan gauge, inspect pads and rotors, then all the fun stuff.
I replaced all the instrument cluster lights. Found the cause of the no airbag light on startup. SRS light pin #8 I think, was pulled from the airbag sensor harness. Plugged it back in and now it stays on permanently! I'm getting a DTC 14 code. Will try to reset it and see what happens. I believe the clockspring was recently replaced by PO but not OEM. That would be my first step if the light comes back after the reset.
Also swapped out the steering wheel for one in like new condition and got some LS visors. Next up is a new LSPV, fluids for TC and diffs, scan gauge, inspect pads and rotors, then all the fun stuff.
Not in CA. The restrictions are too great. There were a few that have attempted it, got it done, then couldn't register it due to the modifications. Ended up selling it out of state.
i am going to register mine in FL at my folks for when time comes. But my 3FE is perfectly fine for everything i am doing with the rig.
If the guy who pulled the airbag connector plugged it in with the battery connected, that's why the light is on. I have the same problem. The additional problem is that now you have to do the two terminal tango at DLC 1 to get the light off. PITA. I found that holding the two paperclips about half an inch apart and shorting them by moving the ground between them was the best practice. Kind of like a metronome.
I tried multiple times to touch them by holding them beside each other and frogger-ing over the tops. Never worked. FWIW, it only worked on one of my 80s. The other one still has the light. I'm pulling the bulb, next time the dash is out. I have no faith the airbag would ever save me in a front end collision anyway.
and why does anyone still live there, you ask?
When I refreshed the head on one of my 80s it made a significant difference, along with changing the old transmission fluid. I never looked at the lower end; I didn't want to know. I think that's the best way to spend money on the 1FZ-FE.
IMHO, the computer and built-in smog crap (thank you, Jimmy - you should have built houses instead of running for President) severely limits what you can do with the engine to improve performance. I had a 1994 that was really close to new, once upon a time, and even new it wasn't an interstate screamer.
- Thread starter
- #34
@Malleus
I tried a few times yesterday but gave up. I think my ground connection wasn't great. Will try again sometime this week and try the method you described.
I haven't gone full throttle yet, but yeah I get the feeling that I will be left wanting more power (knew that from the beginning ). Feels great jumping in the 100 just for the v8. If only they sold the 105 here. But the 80 is an awesome platform. Very happy to have it, love the old school simplicity compared to the 100.
Just looking forward to getting all this sorted and finish my baseline. Trying to convince myself 37s will be worth all the work
I tried a few times yesterday but gave up. I think my ground connection wasn't great. Will try again sometime this week and try the method you described.
I haven't gone full throttle yet, but yeah I get the feeling that I will be left wanting more power (knew that from the beginning ). Feels great jumping in the 100 just for the v8. If only they sold the 105 here. But the 80 is an awesome platform. Very happy to have it, love the old school simplicity compared to the 100.
Just looking forward to getting all this sorted and finish my baseline. Trying to convince myself 37s will be worth all the work
The reset method is in the FSM.@Malleus
I tried a few times yesterday but gave up. I think my ground connection wasn't great. Will try again sometime this week and try the method you described.
I haven't gone full throttle yet, but yeah I get the feeling that I will be left wanting more power (knew that from the beginning ). Feels great jumping in the 100 just for the v8. If only they sold the 105 here. But the 80 is an awesome platform. Very happy to have it, love the old school simplicity compared to the 100.
Just looking forward to getting all this sorted and finish my baseline. Trying to convince myself 37s will be worth all the work
- Thread starter
- #36
Update:
Successfully reset the airbag light. Been a few weeks, so far so good.
Replaced the ABS pump and bled the system. The brakes actually stop the car now, and ABS light is gone.
Blue hub fan clutch installed
Drove about 800 miles and changed the oil. I am consistently getting about 16MPG city/highway, with the AC on with average highway speeds of 70-80mph. Pretty impressed.
To do:
Starter, accelerator cable, gear oil, and LSPV sitting in the garage. Followed by a new power steering pump.
Also it seems my PS seat issue is related to the switch (forward/backwards are reversed). I'll have to dig into that.
Will need to find some reputable shops in LA to re-route the exhaust above the frame, and fix the roof rack rust. Any recommendations are appreciated!
Successfully reset the airbag light. Been a few weeks, so far so good.
Replaced the ABS pump and bled the system. The brakes actually stop the car now, and ABS light is gone.
Blue hub fan clutch installed
Drove about 800 miles and changed the oil. I am consistently getting about 16MPG city/highway, with the AC on with average highway speeds of 70-80mph. Pretty impressed.
To do:
Starter, accelerator cable, gear oil, and LSPV sitting in the garage. Followed by a new power steering pump.
Also it seems my PS seat issue is related to the switch (forward/backwards are reversed). I'll have to dig into that.
Will need to find some reputable shops in LA to re-route the exhaust above the frame, and fix the roof rack rust. Any recommendations are appreciated!
Golden handcuffs..
That's a little higher than I thought possible with a '97. Speedometer / odometer calibrated correctly? o2 sensors happy? etc.?
I typically get 14 mpg, give or take a bit, for hwy driving in the 70 mph range and it drops from there with miles spent city driving. Only way for me to get into the 15mpg+ range is to drive 65mph or lower on relatively flat, long distance drives.
Maybe it's the porting/polishing and some of the other work you did that's boosted efficiency. What do you think is most helping you achieve 16 mpg @ 70-80 mph?
As another, useless, data point, as long as I drive more than 200 miles, more or less continuously (which means highways with stoplights as well as interstate), I get 18mpg; I know, and I've checked it more than half a dozen times in the last year. Around town I get between 11-13mpg, depending on my mood. Good mood = low mpg 
I've done no engine work. The 80 that has a new head gets 13-15 (in town/highway).
I've done no engine work. The 80 that has a new head gets 13-15 (in town/highway).
- Thread starter
- #40
Speedometer seems to be accurate when compared to GPS speed. I replaced one of the 02 sensors, can't remember which one but it was the only one that was available.
My guess is the port/polish is contributing to the improved MPG. Compared to pre-engine rebuild, I do notice that there is more torque at highway speeds and I barely need to depress the gas pedal to maintain speed which wasn't the case before. This could all be in my head though, only a pre/post dyno would prove anything.
I initially thought it might be the fresh engine, fuel injectors, etc, but the EPA rating is 13/15 when new. I'm curious to see how she does as the engine continues to break in.