New 22RE Preformance Engine Instal (2 Viewers)

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I have a 1988 DLX Toyota Pickup truck that needed a new engine and here is how i did it...

A little background...

I have had this truck for the last 10 years and 150,000 miles. I have always done my own maintenance on it and it has basically shown me the ropes when it comes to turning a wrench. I use the truck mainly now for going to the cabin and hunting. Wyoming has such rugged mountains that a weak truck just will not cut it. Here it is doing what it does every June...break trail. This is what I usually have to plow through to get to the cabin.

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Here it is on the road to the little shack as I call it.
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Well one day I was up cutting down trees, due to all the pine beetle, when the truck started to have a knocking sound. The sound of death for a motor. I limped it back to my "workshop in the hills", which is nothing more that just a big tool shed. I took off the valve cover and checked the valves and the timing chain. Both were fine so I knew it was in the bottom end. I parked it and hitched a ride home with a friendly neighbor.

I went back and forth about what to do with the truck. I did not know if I should sell it or if I should drop a new motor in. I started to do some research and came across 22REPreformance or Putney's machine. I called them up and asked a few questions. I wanted a block that did not need boring or a crank that needed to be turned. I wanted to run OEM rotating assembly components. They said if Toyota could get them, they could do it. So I called up my Toyota parts guy and told him to get searching. I also just went with Putney’s performance head and their high flow rocker arms. One week later I had received brand new pistons, rings, bearings, etc. I shipped them off to Putney's and 8 weeks later this is what showed up on my door step.
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Two weeks later I told the :princess: to go see her mom and I was ready for action. I rolled the truck in about 4:00
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I proceeded to start prepping it for removal
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By 10:00 it was 90% ready for removal the next day. The next morning I had to get the tranny bolts out and lift it out. By 11:00 it was out! :clap:
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Then I had to move everything over to the new engine and install the new clutch. A few pictures:
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Here is a picture of the RTV on the oil pan. No leaks here...

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Here are some pictures of the new engine with the accessories on
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By 6:00 Saturday evening the engine was back in the truck. It went so much faster than I imagined it would for my 1st engine swap.

Here is some pictures of it getting hooked back up and finished.

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Well I had it finished by 2:30 Sunday afternoon. I used straight 30-weight oil with a bottle of a zinc additive for the first 100 miles. Then I went with 10w-30 for the next 500 & 1000 miles. Since the initial break in, I have been going 3,000 miles between changes. Around 10,000 miles I will change to Mobil 1, just to see how it lasts verses an engine that used conventional all it's life.

Right now I have 5,000 miles on the motor with no problems what- so- ever. My biggest pet peev is leaks, and so far there has been none. The motor runs strong and can pull hills a full gear higher then I use to. I have no idea what the hp is, but I do know it is more than the old tired engine. The biggest difference I notice with it is how quite it is. It's not like the other 22RE's I use to, they all sound like a sewing machine. I guess it's because of the extra oiling holes in the rocker arms.

I used it all summer long going to the cabin and took it hunting this fall before the snow got really deep. And no, I did not get anything...didn't even see one. The snow just came in to early this year.
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So that is it. I welcome any and all comments...criticism is good, so don't be shy.

Discussion???:grinpimp:
 
Where are these guys out of? I am looking at freshening up my little truck and was planning to find a motor and rebuild it, but this looks like a top notch outfit. Gonna have look into these rocker arms you speak of.

If you don't mind me asking, what did it set you back?

Oh and I am very impressed with your timeline, all of my minor projects take longer than your whole motor swap, great job.
 
Where are these guys out of? I am looking at freshening up my little truck and was planning to find a motor and rebuild it, but this looks like a top notch outfit. Gonna have look into these rocker arms you speak of.

If you don't mind me asking, what did it set you back?

Oh and I am very impressed with your timeline, all of my minor projects take longer than your whole motor swap, great job.

There out of Chico California. The owner's name is Jim and they basically do nothing but Toyota engines. Here is the web site.

22RE Performance - Rebuilt Engines

The engine was kind of expensive due to me wanting all OEM internals. They do have cheaper options though. I think total with freight and core cost it was around 4k.

22RE's are super easy to work with. They can be swapped out in a weekend.
 
what a coincidence. my bottom end recently suffered some damage not worth repairing and i came here looking to do some research on finding a rebuilt longblock i can drop in. thanks for posting this. ill be keeping an eye on this thread for updates. though ill admit, 4k is a bit out of my budget so i'd probably stick with their pre-configured setups.
 
If you could post some before and after mpg figures (or even just after) that would be great. I"ve been thinking of driving to fresno to have marlin rebulid my tranny and then heading up to chico to have putneys do my engine.
 
If you could post some before and after mpg figures (or even just after) that would be great. I"ve been thinking of driving to fresno to have marlin rebulid my tranny and then heading up to chico to have putneys do my engine.

My before and after MPG's really did not change a whole lot, if any at all. I've always kept up on maintenance on the truck - tune up's every other year. I get about 24 highway driving and about 20 around the city.

Just remember with Putney's, 22REPreformance, they are not an assembly line place. They build motors in small batches or 1 offs. The wait for me was 2 months, which I was fine with because it's not my DD. They are always about 2 months out, so make sure you take this into account. I wanted a quality motor, not something just thrown together so I could have it faster.
 
My before and after MPG's really did not change a whole lot, if any at all. I've always kept up on maintenance on the truck - tune up's every other year. I get about 24 highway driving and about 20 around the city.

Interesting. I ask because on their site they advertise they can improve power as well as economy without sacrificing reliability. That said, these trucks were rated at 18/22 and I get 23mpg with 50/50 driving, so I was curious if you saw an improvement.

Just remember with Putney's, 22REPreformance, they are not an assembly line place. They build motors in small batches or 1 offs. The wait for me was 2 months, which I was fine with because it's not my DD. They are always about 2 months out, so make sure you take this into account. I wanted a quality motor, not something just thrown together so I could have it faster.

Thats primarily why I'm going to go with them. Trying to race what is more or less a tractor motor is like putting a spoiler on a fwd car. Time isn't an issue for me. Quality, reliability and dealing with the actual builders are.

After you get things nice and broken in, post some updates for us.
 
Nice work!

Gotta love your avatar pic...where did you get it from???
 
Nice work!

Gotta love your avatar pic...where did you get it from???

Thanks. Glad you like it.

As far as the avatar goes, I've had it for years. I don't know where I got it from, but I kind of remember getting it from an email. One of those funny ones that has no purpose at all.
 
hows the engine running? anything worth noting or updating?

i ordered a stage 1 a few weeks back. should be here early march.
 
Nice engine! That thing looked like they went the extra mile on it, unlike most assembly line rebuilders. How many total miles were on the old engine when it started to go?
 
Very cool. On a side note in regards to Mobile one oil, for some reason Mobile one oil has been linked to many of failed Subaru engines, I also own a Subaru WRX, I have stopped using it. My oils are Amsoil in the WRX and rotella 10W-30 in my 4Runner 22RE. Just my preference, take it how you wish, if you are set on mobile one you may want to do some research. It sounds like oil compiles have been playing around with there formulas.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
 
What weight oil you running? I see snobdds is running 10w30. I was always told down in Georgia to run 20w50 even in new rebuilt 22re's. Is this incorrect info? I could search but may as well ask you guys direct who will be able to give me the real deal.
 
hows the engine running? anything worth noting or updating?

i ordered a stage 1 a few weeks back. should be here early march.

You will be happy with your stage one engine. Jim knows what he is doing with the 22RE's. Keep us updated on how it goes for you. If you need any help, let me know.

The engine is running strong. No leaks and no worries.
 
Nice engine! That thing looked like they went the extra mile on it, unlike most assembly line rebuilders. How many total miles were on the old engine when it started to go?

My old engine had about 220,000 miles on it. I think part of the reason it started to knock really bad is because I put a new head on it 10,000 miles prior. I put a new timing chain on, new head from engnbldr, head gasket etc. It just put too much stress on the lower end with the top end being new and it spun a rod bearing. I should have just redone the timing chain and valve seals and called it good. But, I just wanted to replace what I could while I was in there. Lesson learned I guess.
 
Very cool. On a side note in regards to Mobile one oil, for some reason Mobile one oil has been linked to many of failed Subaru engines, I also own a Subaru WRX, I have stopped using it. My oils are Amsoil in the WRX and rotella 10W-30 in my 4Runner 22RE. Just my preference, take it how you wish, if you are set on mobile one you may want to do some research. It sounds like oil compiles have been playing around with there formulas.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

What weight oil you running? I see snobdds is running 10w30. I was always told down in Georgia to run 20w50 even in new rebuilt 22re's. Is this incorrect info? I could search but may as well ask you guys direct who will be able to give me the real deal.

I run 10W40 Mobil 1 in my 22RE.

I switched to Mobile 1 10W-30 around the middle of December. It was just getting too cold here and I wanted something that flowed better at temps below 0. I can't seem to notice any difference between that and the dino oil I was using. I kept a close eye on the oil level to see if I was burning any, but I haven't put a drop in it since I changed the oil.

I still plan on chaning the oil about every 4,000 miles, it if needs it or not. I use the truck on a lot of dusty roads in the summer so I like to change it hot and a lot.

I just ordered a new Fiberglass bed for the truck and that means I will be giving it a new paint job. I am rolling the truck into the shop tonight to begin the teardown. I have never painted before, but this truck has been the thing I teach myself on so it should be fun. I like to wrench on things much more than body work, we'll see. I will start a new thread on the paint side of things...
 
My old engine had about 220,000 miles on it. I think part of the reason it started to knock really bad is because I put a new head on it 10,000 miles prior. I put a new timing chain on, new head from engnbldr, head gasket etc. It just put too much stress on the lower end with the top end being new and it spun a rod bearing. I should have just redone the timing chain and valve seals and called it good. But, I just wanted to replace what I could while I was in there. Lesson learned I guess.

Ah ok, gotcha on that. Kind of sucks, but now it's good to go.
 
fjdemon said:
What weight oil you running? I see snobdds is running 10w30. I was always told down in Georgia to run 20w50 even in new rebuilt 22re's. Is this incorrect info? I could search but may as well ask you guys direct who will be able to give me the real deal.

20W-50 oil is some thick stuff, I personally would not run anything thicker then 10w-40 oil. Don't forget the higher the number the thicker the oil, the lower the number the thinner.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
 

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