Need Help with No Crank

[Melloj123]

82 FJ40. Had a new ignition switch so i thought i would install. Took off the cover and tried to remove old switch by depressing the pin in acc position and pulling out old switch I could not get the pin depressed so i put it back together with old switch never removed . Now engine will not crank. Instrument lights come on but no crank. Battery is good, I have checked fuses. Please help diagnose.

 

[JohnnyC]

You mean you tried to remove the ignition key assembly?

The switch is behind it held on by a screw

Thread 'Column ignition switch repair?'

Jul 26, 2013

1980 fj40 ignition switch problem, power in, and all 3 outputs Accessories, Ignition and Starter get power when key is turned to on position.

I see a small Philips screw holding the the wire harness to the back of the switch, can I take that off and fix this? I do not want a new one as I have a key that matches all the doors. Would prefer to try and fix, has anyone pulled it apart, will stuff fly out? Anyone fix these when they start acting up?

• cjgoode
• Replies: 5
• Forum: 40- / 55-Series Tech

 

[Melloj123]

In was able to get the new ignition switch in but still no crank. As i said instrument lights come on in on position but no crank in start. Is there a fusible link on an 82 South American.. It started fine earlier today.

 

[JohnnyC]

Did it start if you use a screw driver on the actual switch with it off the column

 

[JohnnyC]

Still don’t know if your talking about the key assembly or the switch in the back

Pics?

 

[Melloj123]

Im talking about the key assembly as shown in the video. Started ok before attempt to put in new switch. Then no crank with old switch and same after i got the new switch in. Thanks Johnny C for your attempt to help. Please keep trying . I need this thing to go tomorrow.

 

[JohnnyC]

Pull off the actual plastic ignition switch from the back … one lil screw holds it… all you need is a screwdriver in the slot to turn it and see if you get anything

All the key assembly does is turns the plastic switch in the back

 

[charliemeyer007]

See if the starter will crank with a jumper cable direct from battery plus to the starter.

 

[JohnnyC]

Pic from @bj40green

This is the ignition switch … remove screw … remove … and turn using screwdriver

 

[Melloj123]

Tried taking the switch off and turning with screwdriver. Same result. Inst lights but no crank.

 

[JohnnyC]

Try jumping starter

If starter cranks… the problem is in between switch to starter

Check the switch connector under dash cluster area

If it does crank when jumping the starter (as Charlie mentioned) … disconnect the switch connector and jump that to see if it cranks there

If it cranks… the switch is bad or needs to get cleaned

 

[brooklyn]

Jumping the starter will help diagnose— but if I understand correctly, it was working with the old switch and when you put a new one in it wasn’t. Putting the old switch back and it still doesn’t work? Without a wiring diagram,I would check the connections and if there is one the fuse.

In putting in the new switch you seemed to have caused the issue.

 

[Melloj123]

Same result with old key switch and new key switch but started ok before i messed with it. During the day i charged the battery with it connected. Could this have anything to do with my problem. Also will bad fusible link keep from cranking?

 

[3_puppies]

almost certain the 79+ has a fusible link off the positive battery terminal, check that.
a bad fusible link would cause your issue
atleast 1 maybe 2 hidden fuse locations on later 40's, going from memory 1 is under the hood by the blower motor, it will be wrapped in yellow? tape plastic holder with 2? glass fuses in it
IIRC they are listed in the owners manual and show the location

 

[charliemeyer007]

So have you check the starter yet? You might swat it with a BFH a few times if it didn't work and re-test.
Did you actually check the fuses with a meter? They can easily look good but be bad. Disconnect the battery ground and clean the fuse contacts both sides. Do all the connectors you can find too. Apply a thin coating dielectric grease with q-tip before putting together. Look closely at crimped connectors - corrosion can crawl under the insulation and ruin the connection

New parts these days aren't always good. You need to use a meter with the correct wiring diagram and check everything coming into/out of the ignition switch. You can check the switch for correct function too. I have rebuilt many of my switches - corrosion on contacts, dust, weak/broken springs

 

[Melloj123]

I have power at the switch in all positions. I think the black/white goes to solenoid. It has power in start position. Still cant find fusible link I have ablue wire that goes to a sealed box labeled "short circuit protection " That blue wire is connected to a white wire in harness at battery. I desperately need to get this thing going as i am scheduled to ship to son tomorrow. It is a recent purchase but has no issues until yesterday. Need help

 

[Melloj123]

none of the fuses in the underdash box would keep from cranking would they? I still think this a fuse issue result of charging the battery but cant find any under hood fuses.

 

[JohnnyC]

i dont think you have any except for ignition/engine... prevents it from starting but would still crank

as mentioned above it could be the fusible link... that does go direct to the ignition switch .... ill see if i can find a pic

 

[JohnnyC]

see pics here:

Fusible Links

Fusible Link 40 Series 1981-1984 Used [90982-08186-U] - $110.00 : CruiserParts, Toyota Land Cruiser Parts, Service & Restoration

CruiserParts Fusible Link 40 Series 1981-1984 Used [90982-08186-U] - Fusible link for 1981-1984 40-series. 08/1980-09/1984 BJ42,FJ40 Call for info on use with other models and years.

shop.cruiserparts.net

basically just a wire of smaller guage that burns out .... check power in and power out... its off the battery

 

[CruiserInProgress]

Here's a part of the 79 schematic. If your fusible link was wired correctly, it doesn't seem that you would have any power to your ignition switch if blown.

Try putting a meter on your starter solenoid cable at the starter (BW - black with white stripe, ~12 gauge if oem) to see if you get power while cranking, then work back from there.

If you have power at that BW wire to the solenoid while cranking, then check for solid, clean connections on both ends of your heavy, starting cable, between battery and starter. Connections can "look" ok, but may have severe corrosion in the ends over time.

You might also check your heavy ground connections while you're at it (battery/ chassis ground, starter/engine ground). Corrosion there could produce similar effects during the heavy current draw while cranking.

Let's just say, I've had more than my share of "patina" related electrical issues with my rusty 79 project, so I tend to go there first!