Need help fast...Front locker actuator install.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

MYSHERPA

MYSHERPA

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Jun 6, 2011
Threads
70
Messages
458
Location
West Jordan, Utah
Hi, and yes I have already "searched" for over an hour for an answer to no avail.

I need help installing my new front actuator. I have the old one off and the differential is in the unlocked position. The FSM only has instructions for install in the locked position. Is there a way to install with the differential in the unlocked position?

Also with the bottom bolt pulled out oil stated dripping out, so it looks like the old one had some silicone around the area where the actuator meets the housing, although the FSM doesn't say to put any there..so my next question is do I have to drain the Diff in order to put sealant around that area or is silicone not needed there?

Thanks in advance,

Jake
 
Thanks for the link, the write up confuses me even more though since it states to have the actuator and the pin in the UNLOCKED position, but then goes on to reference the FSM method of install, which requires them to be in the LOCKED position...

My actuator is brand new, so How do I even Know if it is in the loced or unlocked position?
 
Have to give it some juice.
 
here

Check out this gem

Diff-Lock-Terminal-Explaina.webp
 
Try ZUK - the diff master

Hey Sherpa,

I would suggest trying to contact this guy named Zuk in AZ. He does tons of diff work on Yotas - here's his website:

http://gearinstalls.com/

Good Luck!
 
I can't find the thread, but you hit it with some power. If I recall, it was just a 9 volt battery.
 
Thanks a lot for the help! I still have a question though, so once I make sure that the actuator is unlocked with the battery, do I just give it a little more juice to line up the matchmark groove or do I just bolt it on in the unlocked position with the shift fork gears also in the unlocked position? If I do need to give it more juice to line up the matchmark, which direction do I rotate it, more to the unlocked position or towards the locked position?

Thanks again.
 
You need to read the FSM. AND DO NOT ASK WHAT A FSM IS!!!
 
ok, I calmed down now.....

move the gear inside the diff to the left. that locks it. leave it all the way in.

take your locker actuator that has the matchmarks in line, like the fsm page in the link I put above, into the hole, but don't be lining up the holes for the bolts.... huh, you say???

look at the bottom of the actuator and there is a alignment slot. On the diff there is a pin. Spin it clockwise so that you line the pin to the far side of that slot. once you feel it going in and engaging the gear, then twist it back and put the bolts in.

Done.
 
That wasn't such fast help now, was it?

:doh:
 
Is the whole procedure done while the 9v battery is attached powering the actuator? I gave up on my install too, couldn't decipher the FSM. My front locker locks, but the light flashes anyways. I tested it, locks good. Someone else mentioned that my mechanic probably put it in wrong, and to follow the FSM. But I haven't figured it out yet.
 
2fpower said:
ok, I calmed down now.....

move the gear inside the diff to the left. that locks it. leave it all the way in.

take your locker actuator that has the matchmarks in line, like the fsm page in the link I put above, into the hole, but don't be lining up the holes for the bolts.... huh, you say???

look at the bottom of the actuator and there is a alignment slot. On the diff there is a pin. Spin it clockwise so that you line the pin to the far side of that slot. once you feel it going in and engaging the gear, then twist it back and put the bolts in.

Done.
Click to expand...
Alright Mr smart guy. What do you do when there are studs that don't allow you to twist the actuator?
 
Maybe post a pic of what looks like for yours? I remove the studs and have full access to the front locker to install the system in the locked position. This is the pic with my front locker removed. The hole where the locker moves the rack to the left. With one wheel in the air, I used a screw driver to push the rack to the left while slowly moving the wheel until it locked. Then install the actuator in and nothign much else was needed.

1660830009533.webp
 
if you are talking about the long stud, double nut the studs and take them out?

if you are talking about the short studs, don't put it in that far, the gear will still engage, turn it to line up with the studs.
 
Last edited:
2fpower said:
if you are talking about the log stud, double nut the studs and take them out?

if you are talking about the short studs, don't put it in that far, the gear will still engage, turn it to line up with the studs.
Click to expand...
Sorry, we were frustrated so made a short reply. We had a chuckle over it...

I did get it in, I didn't twist the actuator like you suggested, I just pushed the linear gear (inside the front axle) that meshed with the front actuator, everything slide in and then functioned afterwards.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom