Need help choosing between two 80's (1 Viewer)

Joined
Apr 19, 2009
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377
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Brooklyn, New York
 
 
Hi all,

Selling my 62 this weekend and trying to decide between two 80s. Interested to hear peoples feedback.

1997 collectors edition
150K
lockers
no factory rack (rack in the pic not included)
smittybilt running boards
original HG
seller asking 8500

1996
120K
no lockers
original HG
all service done at toyota dealership, for whatever thats worth
seller asking 7000

Both have some dents and dings but are solid overall. Most importantly, both are the ultra-rare dark green. (Joke!)


Thanks for the feedback

Luke
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Last edited:
Joined
Dec 14, 2010
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Top of Idaho
If I was springing for an 80 on the expensive end of the spectrum, I'd pay the extra 1500 for the lockers.

Mileages are close, you say they're both solid, and no one likes the factory roof rack, so just ask yourself if you want lockers and how much they're worth to you.
 
Joined
Nov 11, 2010
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496
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Minnesota
 
Lockers are sacred around here. $1500 is a good deal to have them :)

Maybe you can get them to come down to $7500 :D
 
Joined
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Lockers might be sacred but they are not the end all to be all when buying a rig.
Unfortunately being in NYC you will pay NYC prices.
You need to by the truck that you are most comfortable with.
What is the service history of the 97 vs 96
Did you read through the 80 FAQ as well this will be a big help for you.
What will you be using the truck for is the big question.
 

landtank

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I'll be down in Paramus NJ most of the week if you would like another set of eyes on these. It will cost you a few beers though.
 
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First one for $7500 maybe as long as the lockers actually work and rust is minimal
 
Joined
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Thanks for all the replies.
The majority of use will be on-road, but aside from helping with occasional mudding, the lockers will boost the resale which would be the main reason to spring for them. If I can get the 97 down to 8K, its a done deal.
 

LINUS

Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
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I'd take Rick up on his offer & unless you think you know these inside & out, go by whatever he thinks.

Personally all things being equal I'd take the lockered one if for nothing other than the more desireable package if the crappy day comes that you find yourself in "fire sale" situation - a lockered 80 gets alot more buzz & 2ndhand exposure than a open diff one & moves alot faster (transactionally).

Good luck!
 
Joined
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Thanks for all the replies.
The majority of use will be on-road, but aside from helping with occasional mudding, the lockers will boost the resale which would be the main reason to spring for them. If I can get the 97 down to 8K, its a done deal.

You do not buy an 80 for resale value.:meh:
 

murf

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Id put some weight on comparing service records first...then crawl underneath: Look for leaks, have the hoses/belts been changed? Check for evidence of any damage underneath, chk fenders for missing Vin tags indicating a previous accident, etc.

The difference in the $1500 can be gobbled up quickly in maintenance and repairs if one of them has been neglected somewhat in regular upkeep and maintenance.

my .02

Good luck! :cheers:
 
Joined
Sep 7, 2010
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NYC
Lockers, no factory roof rack, nicer running boards, no-gold pkg - worth the extra $1500 to me.

If they are mechanically equal, I'd get the first one.
 
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I'm in the city 4 or 5 days a week, depending on clients, and there are several GCLC guys in town every day as well. Send out a shout if you need some help.
 
Joined
Apr 19, 2009
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Many thanks for the offers of assistance. I'll definitely enlist some help if the answer isn't clear to me after driving the 97 tomorrow.

I should have mentioned that I know the 97 pretty well as it is being sold by an old boss of mine. I've put about 1000 pavement miles on it myself, but that was a few years back. He's a builder and uses it to haul equipment/furniture around. As such, the interior was less than stellar when I last saw it and has likely gotten worse. Going to revisit it tomorrow, see whats changed and if I can bring the price down a bit.

After driving the 96 today, what struck me was how quiet and tight it was (more so than I remember the 97 being).That, the empty space where the dial should have been, and the stupid gold emblems. Overall though, very solid.

I'll post tomorrows results. Thanks again, all.
 
Joined
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Drove the 97 today. Is it necessary to be in motion for the CDL/ABS lights to come on after shifting to 4 low? I was stopped when I engaged low, only drove a few feet forward, but didn't get either light. needless to say the diff lights were just flashing when I tried to engaged them.

Is this a red flag?
 
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Drove the 97 today. Is it necessary to be in motion for the CDL/ABS lights to come on after shifting to 4 low? I was stopped when I engaged low, only drove a few feet forward, but didn't get either light. needless to say the diff lights were just flashing when I tried to engaged them.

Is this a red flag?
The ABS/CDL lights should come on at a stop with the truck in neutral and then shifting into 4L. Depends if you have enough room to get the diff locks to engage but I would say possible red flag.

You mentioned the interior being not so great .. so who knows what else wasn't kept (front end, etc) up unless he has records

The other one you can always take off the gold emblems and get ARB lockers or an aussie/auto locker for at least the rear
 
Joined
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Asheville, NC
My CDL/ABS didn't light up until I engaged it about 50 times. Lots of info on here about that. I would definitely go with the locked one.
 

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