Need header suggestions for LSx FJ40 project

[afraptor22]

Looking for some suggestions for headers for a VERY specific fitment issue. I'm putting a Gen III small block in a 69' FJ40 and converting to mini-truck power steering all at once. I have a set of Hooker 8501HKR headers that mimic the Trailblazer SS manifolds but they are going to require me to move the gearbox out at least 2"...too far for my steering column to line up. I think a set of Sanderson LS150 headers will work, and they put the collector lower than normal block headers. I don't think block headers that put the collector in between the 3-5 cylinders will work, that's the tightest spot. No, I can't move the motor to the passenger side, I need it to be offset to the driver side for the transfer case line up, it's an FJ60 H42 and split-case.

 

[Toyrod]

Even if you can find a set of headers that would clear, they will probably be extremely close to the box and cook the fluid. Consider a Saginaw steering conversion?

 

[mmw68]

IMO it's going to be super tight, I had to go Saginaw, and I use hooker headers. I will look up the part number.

 

[afraptor22]

Trying to avoid saginaw, don't like the look and I just sold a gearbox and parts I had collected to do it. I'm committed to mini-truck at this point. I can get at least another inch by welding on a different gearbox mount angle iron, the column isn't welded in the firewall yet.

 

[afraptor22]

IMO it's going to be super tight, I had to go Saginaw, and I use hooker headers. I will look up the part number.

View attachment 1099226

Check out the LS150 headers, I think they will help since the 3 and 5 cylinder tube is closer to the block where your Hookers push those out farthest. I'm just wondering if the #1 pipe coming back to the collector will hit my gearbox after I move the mount out.

 

[sadam_husain]

not headers but 2010 Camaro (1261141, 1261140) down exit exhaust manifolds work well if you want to get the pipes down inside the frame rails

 

[afraptor22]

The hooker manifolds I had did that no problem. But they are too wide up high, pretty much every stock manifold is like that. I need something that tucks in at the 3-5 cylinder spot.

 

[afraptor22]

Sanderson LS150 headers fit. Will have to wrap the gearbox with a heat shield though.

 

[bikersmurf]

I'd go with Ram Horn Manifolds and be done with it, mine are 46 years old and going strong. Not sure they'll fit your head, but that shouldn't be hard to figure out... They clean my 40 box no problems.

Rather than Mini truck, you could also consider Scout II, 60/70/80 Landcruiser to avoid the 'Saginaw look' but have a stronger box.

 

[afraptor22]

I don't think they make Rams horn manifolds for the Gen III motors, like what I'm using. Besides I needed something that didn't put the collector in the middle of the block.

Sanderson LS150 headers fit perfectly and I only had to move the power steering gearbox out about .6".

 

[afraptor22]

 

[afraptor22]

So now that the motor and transmission are mounted I'm modifying the wiring harness for the motor. Using some excellent information from http://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-lsx/544768-ls1-harness-start-finish.html and www.lt1swap.com I started with identifying and removing all the connectors I didn't need and pulling the pins at the PCM connector.

Here's what it looked like getting it home.

Here's the wiring harness off the motor.

I have the PCM mounting tray from a van that I plan on mounting underneath the glove box, but the stock harness isn't set up to do this. SO I pulled ALL the pins out of the PCM connectors and pulled the entire wire harness apart so I could put every connector and ground circuit where I wanted. I ended up having to lengthen about 10 wires and shorten about 30. The pins are available from Mouser and several other electronics suppliers.

And here's what it looks like after I moved everything around. The bigger pink wires are for the start/run power to the PCM and relays.

I need to tie everything up and cover it then mount it back in the truck and start mounting and wiring up the under hood fuse panels and relays. Relays for: start, fan and fuel pump. Two fuse blocks, one for battery hot and the other for start/run hot.

 

[69LC]

This will give you much more steering shaft clearance, less joints to wear and a longer drag link.

My little brother just removed his stock '11 Caddy CTS-V manifolds to install headers. From the pics he's sent me it looks like they would tuck in nice and dump just behind center-if I remember correctly... I'll use them for an LS swap in our 80.

 

[69LC]

...that didn't quote correctly. sorry...

 

[afraptor22]

Well the mini truck box is in now...so unless it breaks immediately I'm not going to change it. Maybe down the road I'll look at a scout or 80 based system.

 

[KTM96]

IMO it's going to be super tight, I had to go Saginaw, and I use hooker headers. I will look up the part number.

View attachment 1099226

Were you ever able to figure out which headers these are. I'm trying to put together the same setup. LS w/ Saginaw box. Were you able to keep the steering shaft in the factory hole or did you have to move it over? Thanks for the help.

 

[afraptor22]

Not sure which headers you are asking about. The Hooker ones are just their block hugger LS headers I believe. I redid this truck with the Hookers when I sold it and got a little more clearance to the steering box. The Hookers are somewhat center dump, not great quality. Sandersons LS150 were better quality but rear dump. If I do this again I would use the Hooker 8501 cast iron manifolds. Any of these should clear your shaft if you are using a Saginaw box up front.

 

[KTM96]

Not sure which headers you are asking about. The Hooker ones are just their block hugger LS headers I believe. I redid this truck with the Hookers when I sold it and got a little more clearance to the steering box. The Hookers are somewhat center dump, not great quality. Sandersons LS150 were better quality but rear dump. If I do this again I would use the Hooker 8501 cast iron manifolds. Any of these should clear your shaft if you are using a Saginaw box up front.

Thanks for the info. What did you do at the firewall? What did you use for a column?

 

[cult45]

A 60 series power steering conversion is far superior than a mini truck conversion. Not only does it eliminate the relay rod and centre arm [and all associated joints = wear/slop points] the box itself is designed for a heavier application than the mini-truck, so is much stronger. It provides more direct feel as there's less moving parts. It also has the advantage of keeping its componentry out of the engine bay, leaving room for your headers.

40 SERIES LANDCRUISER OWNERS

 

[afraptor22]

Thanks for the info. What did you do at the firewall? What did you use for a column?

On that truck I used the stock colun and cut off the original box to weld on the rag coupler.