My ML/NAV PAC-Audio aftermarket amplifier/speaker install

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Apr 2, 2019
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z00t3ch, Just curious why you would pair a lossless player to your audio system through bluetooth which is very lossy? Although the JL unit is probably very solid (its JL!) there are other units that support higher bitrate bluetooth like aptX HD. I guess it depends on what your source supports as well though. the Apple stuff doesn't support many of the higher bitrate bluetooth codecs. What is your lossless audio player?
 
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Ohio
z00t3ch, Just curious why you would pair a lossless player to your audio system through bluetooth which is very lossy? Although the JL unit is probably very solid (its JL!) there are other units that support higher bitrate bluetooth like aptX HD. I guess it depends on what your source supports as well though. the Apple stuff doesn't support many of the higher bitrate bluetooth codecs. What is your lossless audio player?
I'm new to this whole lossless thing, I lean toward CD's for my source of clean audio, but I loathe the idea of loading a 6-disc changer and trying to keep things fresh. I'm leaning toward the Shanling M0 which has stellar reviews from what I can find, and it has aptX Bluetooth as does the JL Audio MBT-RX. If there's better out there it's probably more expensive than these two choices which are only $150 for both. The M0 does have a high-voltage line out so I can hardwire into the AUX-in if the Bluetooth is unacceptable, but I'm trying to avoid cord clutter and I eventually want to add SiriusXM via Bluetooth so I don't have to keep unplugging and replugging 3.5mm jacks in and out of my AUX-in.
 
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Yeah, running wires around and swapping them is no fun! Doing a bit more reading, it looks like aptX can handle CD quality 16 bit 44/48kHz. But if your intent is to really play high resolution 24bit 48+kHz music, its best to go wired. Bluetooth units that handle aptX HD or LDAC could provide some improvement as well, but both transmitter and receiver have to support the high end codec to get any benefit.

all this being said... I play mostly low quality mp3s through an aptX HD bluetooth system into the aux port... The bottle neck for me is the low quality source music! oh well, i built my digital library when storage was expensive and I didn't know better!

hopefully this helps and doesnt cause confusion. Im sure what you are doing will end up sounding really good, especially in a vehicle with a little bit of road noise that would obscure any benefit of truly high res audio!
 
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Yeah, running wires around and swapping them is no fun! Doing a bit more reading, it looks like aptX can handle CD quality 16 bit 44/48kHz. But if your intent is to really play high resolution 24bit 48+kHz music, its best to go wired. Bluetooth units that handle aptX HD or LDAC could provide some improvement as well, but both transmitter and receiver have to support the high end codec to get any benefit.

all this being said... I play mostly low quality mp3s through an aptX HD bluetooth system into the aux port... The bottle neck for me is the low quality source music! oh well, i built my digital library when storage was expensive and I didn't know better!

hopefully this helps and doesnt cause confusion. Im sure what you are doing will end up sounding really good, especially in a vehicle with a little bit of road noise that would obscure any benefit of truly high res audio!
TBH, I don't think I have the ears to distinguish anything higher than CD quality. And it's a moot point anyway because I cannot find an aptX HD receiver for automotive use. Furthermore...I'm not planning to compete in the IASCA SQ Finals, I'm just building a budget system using a factory stereo as my source, and the GX speaker layout is piss-poor staging-wise, so I need to maintain realistic expectations!

***edit***

I mean, here's what it takes to accomplish proper staging:

 
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If anyone is curious as to the volume of the stock ML subwoofer enclosure, I filled mine with water and measured what came out to be .25 cubic feet. Probably going to reuse my sub in a project of some sort, but if you're looking for a sub to replace your blown unit now you know it needs to be happy in a .25 enclosure.
 
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Jan 15, 2019
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NOVA
How deep is it? I think thats the most important thing to know since every post I've read says the aftermarket sub people purchased to replace the factory one didn't fit because they were too deep
 
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How deep is it? I think thats the most important thing to know since every post I've read says the aftermarket sub people purchased to replace the factory one didn't fit because they were too deep
3" from the mounting flange to the back of the enclosure. The factory sub is actually quite massive.
 
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Just an update to anyone interested in this thread, I hit a deer a few nights ago so my truck is out of commission for a while. Will let you know when it's back and progress continues...
 
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Bummer, sorry to hear that!
Thanks, Brochacho, it's all good. One of two possible outcomes, I get a repaint that fixes some peeling issues and some new headlights I need but wouldn't otherwise pull the trigger on, or it gets totalled and I get a check and an easy fix and order myself a Demello front bumper and pocket a few grand. Either way it comes out of this ordeal better than before and not a penny out of pocket thanks to a zero deductible.
 
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Got the front speakers in today, a set of JBL 6x9 components along with some PowerBass 2.75" midranges ran off CT Sounds 3-way passive crossovers. No pics because they all fit so well they were practically direct drop-in replacements.

Also ran 4ga NVX power and ground wire for my amp which is going under the driver seat behind the ML amplifier. I was originally going to mount the amp where the factory sub was but it would be difficult to access for tuning, plus I discovered the amp would fit under the seat if some of the superfluous Tupperware was removed.

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Dec 25, 2018
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Yeah, trying to avoid the Beatsonic bc you have to keep the CD player in the glovebox and I would rather take it out.
The whole ML system is quite complex with a lot of loop-thru and self analysis, the changer has to stay because its removal disables the system. I don't see how you're going to get an aftermarket deck to communicate with the ML amp any other way...
 
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Dec 25, 2018
Messages
356
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Ohio
System is complete! The PAC Audio adapter is an easy install, just unplug two connectors from the back of the stereo and plug them into the adapter, then plug the adapter into the now vacated spots. Connect 6 RCA leads and a Remote Turn On wire to the adapter, plus run a remote volume control, and you're done. Space is a wee bit tight behind the radio for all the hardware but it went together without drama. The JL Audio bluetooth adapter works very well, too.

Here are pics underhood of my 4ga amp wire install:

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