- Thread starter
- #41
No, the only way into the factory system is through adapters.
My ML/NAV PAC-Audio aftermarket amplifier/speaker install
- Thread starter z00t3ch
- Start date
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No, the only way into the factory system is through adapters.
Can you post photos once you do this please. In every other vehicle I own I have always swapped everything to JL audio so I would like to use this adapter but I am not in anyway an electrical person but if I see a photo then I can get it done. I can live with the rest of the system the way it is but really want to be able to bluetooth music to the vehicle.
Thank you in advance.
Cheers
- Thread starter
- #43
Nothing to see, really...the JL adapter needs switched power which I tapped off the back of the lighter, and it plugs into the AUX-IN port in the center console. You can see about 5" of the 3.5mm audio cable I snaked in from behind the dash.
Great write up. I am leaning towards this route when I change up mine
- Thread starter
- #45
Just a quick initial review of this setup so far...
- If you go this route, make sure to set DIP switch #2 ON thereby selecting 4v output, the 5v setting adds a lot of hiss creating a high noise floor. The ML head unit goes to 60, but I like my max volume to be 75% of whatever the head unit goes to, so 45 is my max. With gains set to accommodate this result, hiss is quite prominent on the 5v setting.
- The PAC Audio adapter provides the Remote Turn On signal, but it goes hot whenever the key is ON, it does not turn on/off with the stereo...kind of a bummer as that leaves the amp sitting ON even when the stereo is OFF...
- I have a 5 channel amp utilizing 6 stereo channels. The PAC Audio adapter has Front/Rear/Sub outputs with a remote volume control for the sub channel. Using the sub inputs for the sub channel results in very little bass even with the gain, boost, and volume remote knob all the way up. When I switch to "internal" for the sub channel, which sums channels 1-4 and feeds the sub channel from there, the sub output is roughly 3x as much, even with the boost all the way off. This renders the remote knob useless. The PAC Audio adapter needs to be USB plugged into a laptop for setup and I have not done so yet, I am hoping there are some internal gains or other settings that allow me to tune the sub channel some more...updates forthcoming...
- If you go this route, make sure to set DIP switch #2 ON thereby selecting 4v output, the 5v setting adds a lot of hiss creating a high noise floor. The ML head unit goes to 60, but I like my max volume to be 75% of whatever the head unit goes to, so 45 is my max. With gains set to accommodate this result, hiss is quite prominent on the 5v setting.
- The PAC Audio adapter provides the Remote Turn On signal, but it goes hot whenever the key is ON, it does not turn on/off with the stereo...kind of a bummer as that leaves the amp sitting ON even when the stereo is OFF...
- I have a 5 channel amp utilizing 6 stereo channels. The PAC Audio adapter has Front/Rear/Sub outputs with a remote volume control for the sub channel. Using the sub inputs for the sub channel results in very little bass even with the gain, boost, and volume remote knob all the way up. When I switch to "internal" for the sub channel, which sums channels 1-4 and feeds the sub channel from there, the sub output is roughly 3x as much, even with the boost all the way off. This renders the remote knob useless. The PAC Audio adapter needs to be USB plugged into a laptop for setup and I have not done so yet, I am hoping there are some internal gains or other settings that allow me to tune the sub channel some more...updates forthcoming...
Great post. I have the '07 with the RES/infotainment system... I'm kicking around options. How did your project turn out? Equipment aside, acoustic damping is the other white meat when it comes to car audio. What did you find in the doors?
