My first ever engine swap.....!!!!! (1 Viewer)

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A 30.00 Lokar cable, 35.00 Ebay t body and a plastic clip compared to mocking in the pedal assy and another hole in the fire wall. I liked option 1. But it's not that it can't be done. It depends on how the pedal will sit on the floor board and the fab work But I don't think it would be to hard. Post a pic of the assy. And enjoy lunch!!

Oh and are you running the Auto tranny? Clearance issues with the front driveline.
 
Post a pic of the assy. And enjoy lunch!!

I'll post a pic of it later on today....

Oh and are you running the Auto tranny? Clearance issues with the front driveline.

At this time Im split 50/50 as to what to go with. I know it comes down to personal preference. However, Im also looking at the $$$ side of things and Im leaning towards the 5 speed tranny (cheaper) less fab. Im not understanding the clearance issues you are talking about. I contacted AA and metioned the two options... price wise they are about $100 difference but they did not mentioned the clearance issues with the drive line...maybe I missed it or dont know what to ask for?

Could you elaborate a little more on this topic...is there a kit that AA sells or is this a fab issue?
Oh yeah I have a OME lift standar 2.5" lean to pass side included Heavy all around and 4x4 extended shackles on the front to undo the sting bug look...
I wonder if having the lift will cure the clearance issues?

Thanks dude.....
 
Look at your front axle shaft; see how beefy it is?; now look in the AA catalog they sell a leaned down version. That shaft helps with the clearance but it still requires a slight pan modification to assist it. Not to mention you have to have the AA shaft welded to length. Stay with the 5 speed you'll thank me later. Oh not to mention you need to cool the tranny what's the game plan there? New radiator or tranny cooler? Just trying to help you out.
 
The Auto is real nice! Espescialy since it's an overdrive trans. In LA there is a LOT of traffic and it sucks shifting from 1st to 2nd to 1st to 2nd a zillion times a day. With the 460le the clearence issues should be negligable. It was not that big a deal even with my turbo 400. And on top of it all Manucho knows I want his h55 for my project (FJ65 pickup).


Dynosoar :zilla:
 
frank- call the smog refs and check for sure that you can use your manual, or better yet, maybe go by there (go to the one at pierce college). the tech was real nice and seemed interested in helping out. he can double check that 2006 vortec V8 powered silverados are/were available with manual transmissions in CA, because I don't know. just don't tell him that you already have the auto "I only have the motor, and I'm not sure if the truck had a manual or auto when I bought it"

A lie, but only a small one to help you out man.
 
Manu -
Dunno how tall you are, but you can get an extra 3-4" of leg room with a Lokar gas pedal by poking the arm through the original hole for the Yota throttle linkage (obviusly ditching the drive-by-wire, or maybe that would be easier).

I modified the brake pedal & mounted a Lokar '55 Chevy pedal pad to line up with the gas pedal correctly. Then I put a LX470 dead pedal against the kick panel. It's now comfortable to drive since my right knee isn't bent up to where it hits the steering wheel.

For a real subtle look, a Lokar shifter through the stock hole & boot will make most folks think it's still a stick.

By the way - you'll like the 4L60E. But if it came out of the same 4x4 you'll need to change a shaft. AA has them.

My 5.7 turns 2,200 rpm at 75 mph with 4.11s & 33x10.50 MTRs. Better everywhere except when you want complete control over the RPMs, like downhill.
 
Pedal Pics

Here are the pics of the pedal...

iaintscared...I'll have to look at the AA website. I believe yah bro. I dont have the catalog....... Yeah it sounds like a lot more mods are in order for this swap.

Dynosoar, if I dont use or can't use the tranny I'll have to go auto and yes you would have first dibs on it...

Shane, it crossed my mind on that other thread but I did not want to address it...(stick my head in the sand and hope it goes away) but you are absolutely right..

I better call and find out....but I already get the feeling that it is a matter of how you interpret the law and also who the refferee will be at the time of checking the actual work.. Thanks for the info on Pierce College.

Im trying to pull the whole engine/tranny/tc together, along with all the smog stuff... ya'll think I'll be able to unplug the smog stuff from the fender and just throw in on top of the engine w/o snapping/damaging anything?....
Engine will probably go for sale some time this year.......

Tinker, thanks for all that info. iaintscared mentioned the Lokar gas pedal and the outputshaft on the A/T. I'll have to look into it some more.
I have seen the Lokar shifter and it does look nice. I also read up on Marks Adapters out of AU and they sell one too specific for the FJ60. Maybe AA carries it, we'll see.......
2,200rpms at 75mph on 4.11 eh... Dang that sounds nice....

Laters,

And thaks for all the info, and please if you got any input do post.
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Man, blue rigs are owning the Vortec swap!!!
 
your engine bay looks better than mine. and your doing a swap. haha. how many miles are on the 2f?
 
Glad to help. It's a blue thing... The pedal looks like an easy mock up. May need to make a shim for the mount to get the right angle but looks easy. Tinker is right about the auto on highway cruising. Paxildog has the auto and for the driving it is nice. Like I said it is what you want and are able to do on the budget. Best thing is ask alot of questions and get the pricing together so you don't freak half way through the install when you need something else. The ref's will probably tell you it needs to have the original tranny. But as you said it depends on who you ask. Hopefully he drives a 60... Good luck and nice truck if you need anything drop a line..
 
your engine bay looks better than mine. and your doing a swap. haha. how many miles are on the 2f?

Kline, Im not sure exactly on the actual milage. I think is just below the 200k mark. It has about 10K to 14k on a remanufactured engine from Jasper Engines.
I really tried to be Toyota purist but the 2F engine+ all the smog laws here in Califas really castrate the engine's power.

I tried and looked at dropping a Tundra or 80's engine in it but its too damn hard to outsource a whole truck to swap everything into the 60. Chubby engines are the cheapest and most common swaps.
 
Kline, Im not sure exactly on the actual milage. I think is just below the 200k mark. It has about 10K to 14k on a remanufactured engine from Jasper Engines.
I really tried to be Toyota purist but the 2F engine+ all the smog laws here in Califas really castrate the engine's power.

I tried and looked at dropping a Tundra or 80's engine in it but its too damn hard to outsource a whole truck to swap everything into the 60. Chubby engines are the cheapest and most common swaps.





spoken like true believer...

I agree with iaintscared, looks like a pretty easy swap on the pedal...
 
x3 I would do the fancy hi tech throttle too. It seems way hi tech and way cool.

Dynosoar
 
Nice looking donor engine... you going to be selling the 2F?

:cheers:
 
Im VERY interested in this thread!
After flogging my 3FE up and over Mammoth last weekend at 45 MPH, this swap is something that I REALLY WANT to do!
What do you speculate this is gonna run?
Are there gearing options once the tranny is in the rig for down the road?
That is one thing that I dont like about the autos is down hill RPM control, as someone mentioned above.

Good luck bro!
My hat is off to you!

Chicago
 
Looks very familiar engine:). I used similar engine for my swap, it was 6 liter LQ9 from Escalade, but looked exactly the same. I put it to Dodge Raider instead of 2.6 4cyl

Here is my engine before the swap compared to the original


... and when installed...




About the drive by wire systems (DBW) (electronic throttle). Initially I wanted to use all original ECU and DBW, but there were a lot of cases, where DBW reliablity was an issue and calibration went wrong. Also with DBW you are not controling the throttle butterfly directly, but with pedal you are giving your request to ECU and ECU is deciding how much and how fast the throttle would be applied.
So I wanted to get rid of the DBW system and went for a cable and bought a new throttle body from Camaro. Then there was another problem. Eventually ECU and wiring loom was different for DBW and cable throttle, so I went for Megasquirt and EDIS. The result is very good 386hp and 397 lbft.

About the transmission
I guess the tranny you got is 4L60E or 4L65E, which is probably not the best tranny for offroading...
I used manual NV4500, but not sure was it right decision, maybe auto woud have been better...

I saw your engine has cast iron block, so if it is 5.3 liter, then it should be LM7, if it is 6.0, then LQ4 or LQ9


What axles and tires would you be using? Actually I'm planning to change the axles and one option would be LH61 axles with lockers. Does anyone know how much power and tire they would stand?
 
Nice looking donor engine... you going to be selling the 2F?

:cheers:

PAFJ yes, the 2F is will be for sale.......

Are there gearing options once the tranny is in the rig for down the road?

Right now I dont know if I can keep the H55 or will have to use the 4L60E. Im waiting for the smog referee to call me back and see what they make of the CA smog rules. I want to keep the H55. Thanks I'll post as many pics as possible.....

I saw your engine has cast iron block, so if it is 5.3 liter, then it should be LM7, if it is 6.0, then LQ4 or LQ9

You are right it is a 5.3 but this one is a L59 flex fuel engine. It came out of a 4x4 silverado truck. Everythig else will stay the same with the exception of tires and maybe 4.11's but will see how deep the pocket is...
thanks for all the props guys.. I wouldn't be doing it if it wasn't for this site.. It rocks !!
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more pics
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