Moving from 100 to 200- advice

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bertnd

bertnd

10 Year
Joined
Oct 17, 2011
Threads
20
Messages
111
Location
Cumberland, ME
So I’m considering this 2013 LX570 with 59k to replace my 100 (in Colorado). I know this would be normal on a 100 series, but any concern with this rust, particularly at the welds?this was the worst of it. I’m assuming the 200s have the same concern as the 100s here? TIA

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FWIW, I looked at one in Montana that had a similar amount of rust, and I passed on it. There are plenty of cleans ones out there. I've seen a lot worse, but when LCs cost as much as they do, I will wait for a rust free rig, unless the price is too good to pass up. Rust can be managed, but it is hard to get to the inner frame to clean it up. I've used Corroseal with good success on other vehicles. If you consider it, get pics of the KDSS valve to see if it is rusted out too.
 
LX won’t have KDSS so don’t go chasing your tail looking for it.

I’ll back up bamma though.. as much as these cost I’d hold out for a truly clean one.
 
appreciate the info! it was a toss up for me- great service history, overall great condition and full warranty- but rusty stuff just sucks.
 
It could boil down to cost as mentioned above, not an expert in rust but this doesn't look bad IMO. Looks like it's on the surface and some inhibitor should stop the affects. There are clean ones out there for sure, but price is usually higher. And really are there THAT many 2013s/similar out there? Took me months to find my LC (granted there are more LXs out there). Could you use the rust to negotiate to a price that you'd be happy with? Is the color/interior what you want? I dunno just seems like it should be a broader decision than is there any rust or not. And not sure if you found it but I had started a thread back when I was in the hunt that remains pretty active "Most Recent 200 series purchases" in the classified section, you can see what people are paying (not sure how many rust pictures there are though!) Good luck!! And like these guys have said if you aren't going to be happy with it and second guess, just pass!
 
Just from the pictures I wouldn't rule it out just because of that rust.
Looks mostly surface... Take a wire brush with you and scuff it in several areas to see the full extent of it.
If it's as mild as it looks after you've really inspected it...and everything else is good and the spec u want then I'd just use that as a negotiation point to get a few bucks off. Then just clean it/prep it really well and cover in an appropriate product after purchase.
Chances are very good you'll never even notice it again...and if it does cause issues it'll probably be for the next owner unless you like to keep vehicles for 20 years

Good luck!
 
I don't see the rust issue. That's going to be cleaner than 90% of any other 6 year old 200 series in Colorado. Short of finding something out of Southern CA, AZ, TX, etc, that's clean. Yes, that one seam has surface rust but as I look around the rest of the undercarriage, it's pretty clean (front control arm seams, transmission cross-member, rear differential). If you want something cleaner then I'd bet you just eliminated 95% of what else is out there for a similar year when looking nationwide. That said, it's not clean enough I'd pay a premium for it, but if it's a good price for you, then it's no dealbeaker in my book.
 
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My lifetime TX rig has only a bit less rust on it. It is fine. More telling is if the fasteners are rusted. Then you have trouble.
 
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Seems really light to me, I wouldn't worry about it. As far as 100 vs. 200 frame rust over time it's almost identical, I've had both rigs and the patterns/tendencies are identical. I've been treating my 200 with Fluid Film preventatively which has kept it at bay.

FWIW my 100 was a lifetime midwest rig and looked like a coral reef underneath, just insanely rusty after 12+ years of salt. But the rig drove perfectly, resold for good money, and still looked damn good otherwise. No practical consequences.
 
That looks like surface rust. Nothing that couldn’t be cleaned up and painted. Most of those areas are easy to reach with a brass brush and a spray can if you’re willing to spend a few hours cleaning it up.

The thing that I look for with rust is bolt heads and captured threads. If those are rusted, that’s a pass for me.

Good luck with your search!
 
personally i would use the rust as a negotiating point. and if i bought it i would treat the frame with Waxoyl,fluid film woolwax or something similar . inside and out. if i purchased a new one without rust i would do the same.
 
Thanks for the advice everyone! Unfortunately they wouldn’t negotiate price. 2013 with 59k for 39,500. It has not had the 60k service done yet, but they put new tires on it.
 
You can look at my CO and MD higher mileage LX I just sold to comp the rust. I would say the one you’re looking at is acceptable but not immaculate. The price good not great as well.

forum.ih8mud.com

For Sale - 2008 Lexus LX 570 in Denver - SOLD

Well, unfortunately the time has come to thin the heard. I bought this a little over 1.5 years ago as a temporary solution, but it was so excellent as a DD I kept it and drove it nearly every day. I have a vehicle collection problem and recently bought a Tesla as my daily driver, so I have 2...
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@mcgaskins i really appreciate the reference! This one has been a lifelong CO car too, so curious how it even got the surface rust it has.
 
Just another data point, but I've had my 2007 LX 470 since 60K miles, currently @ 140K miles, and as a Texas truck super clean underbody. My LX570 Texas truck acquired at 30K miles, now at 60K, started out with more surface rust and seems more susceptible to it. Nothing significant, but definitely more prone than the 100. Per above, you can do better, but if they'd come down on price and bolts, etc. are clean, I wouldn't be overly concerned.
 
In my opinion, the light rust on this is not bad at all.
 
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