More M101 CDN Restoration Questions

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cbmontgo

cbmontgo

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I am taking my trailer apart to sand and repaint all of the "undercarriage". What is the best order to do this? First remove shocks, then U-bolts, then leaf springs, then axle? When I disconnect the springs from the shackles, are they going to be hard to get back in place (do they try to lose the arch)?

Also, I want to open the drums and clean everything up inside (and check brake shoes). Is there any difficulty in doing this?

And yes, one more. How often do you guys repack or grease the stock bearings on these trailers? I towed mine about 15 miles at 70 MPH the other night, and they felt cool to the touch when I got home. I take that as a good sign, but she is going to Big Bend in a few months (1400 miles round trip) and I want to make sure all is in tip-top order.

Thanks!
 
I decided after checking out my bearings and wanting to change the rims to something closer to Toyota 6-5.5 lug pattern - I bought these hubs they came with new seals and bearings - just pack'em and put it on - I cleaned all the brake parts and wire wheeled the inside clean -

HERE are some photos of what I did on mine
 
the bottem of the bed of these are undercoated with Zebart. I would just knock off anything thats loose with a high pressure hose and hit it with some spray on undercoating .
As for the springs just take some pics and pull everything apart and clean away . The only thing you may want to buy new is the spring centering pins . The new one will be long (makes it real easy to put the paks back together )and when your done tightening it you just cut off the extra sticking out .

Take lots of pics and post them here .
 
Desertdude,
Most excellent and infomative photos. That is exactly what I needed to figure out my hub swap. Thank you.
 
Another question: I removed the U-bolts and shock plates today, but how do I remove the brake lines from the drums without cutting them? Is there a trick to this? I am about to yank the springs and axle tomorrow. Also, what size are the bolts on the shackles? I need to get a bigger wrench set tomorrow!

Thanks--
 
I would imagine, the brakes would disconnect from the inside out, I would remove the drum and take a look. But I have no experience with these trailers. Really looking forward to your build-up, start a post and keep the pics rolling.

I am still heading in the scratch build direction.

Rezarf <><
 
PM sent on hub removal - they do come apart from the inside - near the center of the brake shoes you will find an interesting looking clip/indented washer/spring - use a pliers and grab the tip of the clip coming though the shoes in the middle of the dented washer - it is shaped like a Tee - give the washer a push in then grab the tip of the tee and turn a bit - it will now come loose - do the other shoe and it should all come apart easily for you to clean

dd

PS ps you might need to lub the inside of the cable jacket

cbmontgo said:
Another question: I removed the U-bolts and shock plates today, but how do I remove the brake lines from the drums without cutting them? Is there a trick to this? I am about to yank the springs and axle tomorrow. Also, what size are the bolts on the shackles? I need to get a bigger wrench set tomorrow!

Thanks--
Click to expand...
 
Thanks, desertdude!

OK--as promised, here are some pics of my new project. The first is at Todd's prior to shipment from NJ, and the next two are at my house this past weekend.
Trailers Downsized Forklift.webp
Trailers Downsized Back.webp
Trailers Downsized Garage Front.webp
 
One more. This is a pic of the fenders and tub. You can see that there are some minor rust issues to take care of, but nothing major. The tub is actually excellent; it is mostly just the thinner "accessory" parts that need to be stripped.

This should be easy compared to some old vehciles I've worked on in the past.
Trailers Downsized Inside.webp
 
cbmontgo said:
One more. This is a pic of the fenders and tub. You can see that there are some minor rust issues to take care of, but nothing major. The tub is actually excellent; it is mostly just the thinner "accessory" parts that need to be stripped.

This should be easy compared to some old vehciles I've worked on in the past.
Click to expand...


Awe Damn
Thats where I left my jack and jack stands ;)
BTW I see you took the one that had the old timer rubber ground strap

Looks like its got a tail
Trailers%20Downsized%20Inside.webp
 
Can one of you guys tell me the inside measurement of those trailers. I have an M 100 and it is 6 feet long and 37" wide. How does yours compare? Thanks.

The reason I ask is I am building a slide out camp kitchen and was wondering if it would fit in to a 101 cause I am building more for those interested. More later.
 
photogod said:
Can one of you guys tell me the inside measurement of those trailers. I have an M 100 and it is 6 feet long and 37" wide. How does yours compare? Thanks.

The reason I ask is I am building a slide out camp kitchen and was wondering if it would fit in to a 101 cause I am building more for those interested. More later.
Click to expand...

Overall Length: 114"
Overall Width: 60"
Height: 42"
Box Length: 72" inside
Box Width (top): 46" inside
Box Width (bot): 38" inside

Hope this helps...
 
Looking at that, it might be better to use a sandblaster. Then the new paint will also stick very well.
 
Good news...I got a 24mm socket and breaker bar tonight and removed the leaf springs. I also removed the shocks, but that was pretty easy.

Tomorrow (or this weekend), I am going for the bearing check and brake cable removal for sanding prep.

Question: The cap over the outer bearings and nut...this thing should pry off, right? There is a clean bead of silicone (that appears to be blue underneath) around this cap. I hate to break this seal if my bearings might be fine. Do I go ahead and slice and dice it?
 
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