Might be getting a pig and have questions...

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why would you want the 62 axels? for the rear sway bar? I think I have one extra laying around somewhere,, unless I took it to the junk yard last year....

62 has a better probability of 4.1 gears. also, not sure about the rears, i know the fronts has gussets.
 
I might have found a bell housing, it was almost in my hands yesterday and I forgot I needed it,,, UGH!

why do I have to get rid of the fan clutch? is the engine compartment that much shorter?
what is the deal with the 75 water pump pulley?

I am not 100% sure I would do the axel switch, if I do it will be a while, I want to rebuild whatever I plan on putting under it on a table with the braided ss brake line and 4runner caliper.

This cruiser will not see any wheeling but will be carrying my GF.

could I put the original diffs back in the 60 housing? (where is the coarse spline?) is there a difference in the early diffs part where the axels go into them vs the later diffs?

if I were to keep the stock axel housing, can you put a disc brake knuckle on and retain the original birfields/lockouts?

---------------to recap---------------

I could keep stock axel housing, put in an fj62 or mini truck disc brake conversion, possibly keeping the weaker birfields/diff but not have an emergency brake

or

I could switch out to the fj60 axels retaining the stronger birfields/diff, gaining 3" width and getting an ebrake,,,
-----------------
either way I could also take the longer birfields off my 78 (with the warn hubs) and put the stronger mini truck birfields/hubs on my 78... but I am not sure the 55 or 60 axels will go into the 78 birfields

I think there are going to be some Tie rod/TRE issues with all these mixed pieces, anyone know?

then there is the issue of: mini truck ps vs 60 series ps I am leaning towards the mini truck,,, any input? I am pretty sure there will be issues with the stock steering column connecting to the 60 box but for some reasong I do not think there is an issue with the mini truck gear box...any input here either?


mini disc or 62 disc or 60 axel
mini ps or 60 ps
 
could I put the original diffs back in the 60 housing? (where is the coarse spline?) is there a difference in the early diffs part where the axels go into them vs the later diffs?

yes, you can put your diff in the 60 housing. yours will have the fine spline side gears, it will just be a course pinion. you will be able to use your original driveshaft with your old diff. if you go to the 60 diff, you would have to swap the slipshafts on the driveshaft because the bolt pattern on the flanges is different.

if I were to keep the stock axel housing, can you put a disc brake knuckle on and retain the original birfields/lockouts?

yes, you could. you're damned if you do, damned if you don't. you have course birfs which arent' strong, but to change birf/hubs, you'd get fine, but they'd be the oddball long birfs.

I could keep stock axel housing, put in an fj62 or mini truck disc brake conversion, possibly keeping the weaker birfields/diff but not have an emergency brake

e brake will only be affected by the rear axle, so doing disc in front has no bearing there. if you go 60/mini, you will have issues with the steering arm. the size/taper of the tie rod ends may not work and you'll have to see what others have done. i wouldn't keep the course birfs if you have 60/mini stuff, because that is the larger (stronger), fine spline (stronger), short/common birf. much better option than course.

I could switch out to the fj60 axels retaining the stronger birfields/diff, gaining 3" width and getting an ebrake,,,

you will still have to do some mods to get the axle mount e brake to work, but effectively yes.

either way I could also take the longer birfields off my 78 (with the warn hubs) and put the stronger mini truck birfields/hubs on my 78... but I am not sure the 55 or 60 axels will go into the 78 birfields,

the axles will mount to the birfs. the 60 long axle is longer than the 40/55, so it will only work in a 60 housing. the only thing you would have to do on your 55 housing is minor grinding to the top and bottom of the ball ends where the 60/mini birf would slide in

I think there are going to be some Tie rod/TRE issues with all these mixed pieces, anyone know? ,

Yes, fj60 are much larger, iirc, mini is a bit smaller. it's been figured out..look at the tech section.
 
so I think I have decided:

retain stock axel housing
retain coarse birfields since there will be no offroading
install 62 disc front end and 60 PS

or

mini disc conversion and mini PS

BUT this will probably all revolve around how the steering shaft will mount into the above 2 PS set ups, I see the mini being a better easier install because of the natural angle of the shaft meeting the frame behind the wheel, where the original box is

AND

convert stock rear axel to work with 60 series ebrake

I have a chance to pick up the fuel injection from a 92 80 series all stuff I will need (maybe not the computer) for around 200$

now wouldn't that be sweet? but I'll bet there would be hood clearance issues



OK, I see your point, I read some more about what you have to do to install 60 axels and you are right, for what driving she will be doing I do not see the benefit.

But I do see benefit of doing the disc brake conversion and the PS, especially since my gf will be driving it 90 % of the time,,,,,I like a strong woman, but not with bigger biceps than me,,,
 
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why do I have to get rid of the fan clutch? is the engine compartment that much shorter?
what is the deal with the 75 water pump pulley?

sorry for the delay. Well, its either the engine bay is that much shorter or the motor mounts are moved forward. You dont have room to run the fan clutch as it makes your fan and radiator try and occupy the same space, and thats before any flex. The 75 water pump pulley has the right distance from block to belt grooves to line up with P/S and ALT. I went through 5 different pulleys before i got the right one. IT has 2 grooves but they are set more inward towards the block compared to the other 2 groove pulleys. make sense?

this is a pic of the one you need. see how the groove are pushed back over the top mounting surface of the pulley (like a top hat)
plumbingNelectric 010.webp
 
no worries, I am appreciative of anyone taking the time to share their knowledge, regardless of when,

I do not have the cruiser yet, I should be getting it a week from now, but it will be a month or 2 before I get to tear into it, maybe longer...

so I need to either move the rad mounts , engine mounts or change to a non viscous coupler fan, and change the water pump pulley..

do you happen to know how deep the inset of the pulley is?
 
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