Metal Tech Sliders TC UCAs & Radflo Shocks

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The MT design makes using these sliders as a step difficult espescially for children as the gap between the slider and body is somewhat wide. I like Slee's design better based on this feature. But for folks w/o the small kiddos, the MT design is awesome.

Interesting observation. I would have figured that the MT's would be better for kids as the gap between the rail and bar is pretty tight compared to BIOR/WKOR. Agreed, that the Slee Step Slider is the best for ergonomics.
 
On second thought, the tubing does not angle up as close to the door as much as I remember on the 80 sliders. These look a little more flat, which might make the step approach easier than on previous designs.

Damn, I miss my 80 btw.:crybaby:
slider.webp
slider 2.webp
 
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And for whatever reason they left the rear side of the front fender unnecessarily exposed on their 100 design.
 
And for whatever reason they left the rear side of the front fender unnecessarily exposed on their 100 design.

Which one is "they"?
 
In the second post, first picture, how the sliders mount to the frame... I'm guessing it's just picture angle, but those mounting points/u-bolts.. are they tucked away as to not retain damage from rocks and such?

Also, for anyone else, do these stick out a little more than the wkor sliders? by the pics, it looks like they might. I think i like this a little better.

Yeah, it's just the picture angle. The are tucked up next to the frame. The mounting pads are folded around the squre tubing to provide stiffness and greater weld contact.
 
And for whatever reason they left the rear side of the front fender unnecessarily exposed on their 100 design.

Spresso,

I think that's a fair point and might be worth talking to Mark or LT at MT about for future production runs.

As for the style, LT and I had a long phone conversation about whether to go with the more upswept 80 series style rails, or with the flat FJ style. I chose the FJ style as it does make a nice step, while also keeping the rocks just a little further from the body work. On her first time driving it, my wife was very happy with the step. She used to hate trying to climb into the truck with a skirt on.

I should say that I've taken much inspiration from your rig. You have some great ideas that will likely be copied at some point in the future. I was particulary interested in your experience going to the 4.88s and the mileage figures.
 
OOOOOO... That last pic....... Makes me wonder about a shock skid now.

And for whatever reason they left the rear side of the front fender unnecessarily exposed on their 100 design.

Are you referring to the area in front of the where the tube part of the slider begins?
 
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OOOOOO... That last pic....... Makes me wonder about a shock skid now.



Are you referring to the area in front of the where the tube part of the slider begins?

Yes, I learned this the hard way :bang:.

Also, to protect the shafts of those nice & spendy shocks, you should fab some type of guard to keep road (on and off-road) debris from pinging the shafts. The shafts are tough but better to keep everything your front tires kick up away from them for the utmost in lifespan. If in doubt just take a look at your old lower shock tubes for proof ;)

I would move the remote can mount/hose clamp farther up then take a piece of, say, 1/8" belting and zip tie it to the main shock body so it extends down 1/2 around the shock shaft (front side of course)...easy way to deflect all the grit from getting to the shaft.
 
I've got a couple of ideas in the works to protect the shocks, so we'll see what happens when I start fab'ing. I like the rear mount that you did. Makes the shocks easier to install and better protection.
 
Yes, I learned this the hard way :bang:.

Also, to protect the shafts of those nice & spendy shocks, you should fab some type of guard to keep road (on and off-road) debris from pinging the shafts. The shafts are tough but better to keep everything your front tires kick up away from them for the utmost in lifespan. If in doubt just take a look at your old lower shock tubes for proof ;)

I would move the remote can mount/hose clamp farther up then take a piece of, say, 1/8" belting and zip tie it to the main shock body so it extends down 1/2 around the shock shaft (front side of course)...easy way to deflect all the grit from getting to the shaft.

What about a plain old shock boot? Will that work? I'm trying to talk to the guy who made my shock skids for my fj. That bolt looks REALLY vulnerable.
 
What about a plain old shock boot? Will that work? I'm trying to talk to the guy who made my shock skids for my fj. That bolt looks REALLY vulnerable.

I'm not a fan of shock boots as they can cause as many issues as they solve. The main issue is when ("when" not "if") water/moisture gets trapped inside the boot it then goes about its devious deed :rolleyes:.

The other negative with a shock boot is not being able to quickly/easily inspect your shock shafts/seals. Ditto for periodically looking at shock travel range.
 
Flyingdog5000 - Do you know when or if the Metal Tech 100 bumpers are in development? I kept hearing they were designing sliders and bumpers for the 100s and I assume you are the first to get their sliders so thought you may know.
 
The second two photos show the additional travel due to the Total Chaos upper control arms and Radflo shocks. With the 100's every little bit helps. The tire is about 10mm off the ground in these photos.

As a reference point, here is a picture of the droop on the front with the AHC shocks (different angle, but gives some idea). Best that I can tell, there is 1 - 3" of extra droop between what I see on the radflo+TC UCA pictures here and the stock AHC.

I've always been trying to figure out how much additional droop might be out there if switching from AHC...

(yes, that's an old picture of my truck that doesn't match things on the signature line...)
Front Droop AHC.webp
 
Flyingdog5000 - Do you know when or if the Metal Tech 100 bumpers are in development? I kept hearing they were designing sliders and bumpers for the 100s and I assume you are the first to get their sliders so thought you may know.

The idea of a rear bumper has been batted around, but I'm not aware of any firm timeline. Mark at MT has suggested he was interested in doing one, but nothing firm. They seem pretty busy at present, so that will be a factor as well.
 
Outrider makes shock mount armor, ill shoot this info to Digger and see if he can make em for the 100.

I like the look of the MT sliders, kinda wish they would put a plate on top or inset to make it a true step and to keep the rocks/dirt down.
 
There's no need for that on a 100, even at Rausch Creek.

Are you referring to a shock skid? The shock skid i used to have was beat up. Probably more when i first started wheeling, but i definitely am one who opts for more armor and insurance. It's cheap insurance and i'd rather beat up a skid rather than round out a bolt that holds my shock. Kinda like a rear diff skid. Many people i know basically ground down the ring around the drain bolt and ground into the drain bolt itself making it difficult to remove. I wish they made a diff skid for the 100.

Outrider makes shock mount armor, ill shoot this info to Digger and see if he can make em for the 100.

I like the look of the MT sliders, kinda wish they would put a plate on top or inset to make it a true step and to keep the rocks/dirt down.

Funny you mention this. I pm'd digger earlier about the rear lca skid.
 
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