Metal Tech Sliders TC UCAs & Radflo Shocks
- Thread starter Flyingdog5000
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Or send me fifty bucks and I'll make them for you 
let's me drop $1300 on shocks!
- Thread starter
- #62
Dwon, Next time you're out at TVFR in Aloha, look me up, I'm in the Emergency Management area in the NE corner of the building. My LC will probably be out back.
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- Jul 31, 2007
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Will do. When you see my rig there I'm teaching a Healthcare provider class. I'll try to find you next time I'm there. If I don't find you first, feel free to peek in and say hi.
- Thread starter
- #64
Hey guys.... With the increased travel with the Radflo and TC UCA'S. What is the max droop we should have on these going forward? I have my set coming in any day. I know with the OME we wanted 60mm I believe. Thanks!
60mm IMO is the minimum droop target. Yes 50mm will probably suffice but you won't have any problem getting the 60mm with the gear you are getting.
Everybody has an opinion...including me
. But after thoroughly testing this platform over the past 6-1/2 years with 118,000 miles since I've owned it (188,000 miles on it now) I can tell you for the best steering, the best CV and steering rack/tie rod durability less acute angle on these components is better.
The 1" Body Lift I installed (yes they're for sale...shameless plug) allows you to get the tire to fender clearance with most 35" tires with less front lift height. For reference I am currently at 21-1/8" driver's and 21" passenger. Minus the 1" Body Lift height gives me a net of 20-1/8" and 20" respectively. The result is very good steering and CV angles. And still a very capable rig.
It would be interesting to know on your new set-up if the shock or the lower control arms are taking the compression bump hit. I suspect since I have not seen a rubber bumper on the Radflos you will be expected to bump the compression travel at the lower control arm. Either way you may want to consider adding the Timbren soft durometer bump top to the lower control arms for better bottom out control...
Are you doing the install or someone else?
Dan
Everybody has an opinion...including me
. But after thoroughly testing this platform over the past 6-1/2 years with 118,000 miles since I've owned it (188,000 miles on it now) I can tell you for the best steering, the best CV and steering rack/tie rod durability less acute angle on these components is better.The 1" Body Lift I installed (yes they're for sale...shameless plug) allows you to get the tire to fender clearance with most 35" tires with less front lift height. For reference I am currently at 21-1/8" driver's and 21" passenger. Minus the 1" Body Lift height gives me a net of 20-1/8" and 20" respectively. The result is very good steering and CV angles. And still a very capable rig.
It would be interesting to know on your new set-up if the shock or the lower control arms are taking the compression bump hit. I suspect since I have not seen a rubber bumper on the Radflos you will be expected to bump the compression travel at the lower control arm. Either way you may want to consider adding the Timbren soft durometer bump top to the lower control arms for better bottom out control...
Are you doing the install or someone else?
Dan
Dan, I assume you were talking to me... Sorry I lost you after the 1" body lift. And I meant 60 mm as the minimum droop.
I am doing the install myself. I am talking off the OME medium lift I currently have, installing 863's in the rear, new slee heavy duty LCA's, new OEM Rear UCA's, replacing all bushings on the rear Sway bar, 80 series extended sway bar links in the rear, all new sway bar bushings and links in the front, Timbrens front and rear, then the radflo 2.5 remotes front and rear and TC UCA's. On top of all that I have spent a lot of time under the rig cleaing up all the rust and repainting the entire frame. I installed a new OEM CV and rebuilt the other in the spring. A ton of work.
As for bumpers, I have a BOIR rear and an ARB up front. So, I am confused what you mean about the rubber bumper. Since I am already running a min 60mm droop from when I installed the Slee medium lift kit a couple of years ago (with diff drop and OME tbars). I dont plan to raise the truck any more. I am happy with steering and CV's right now. Seeing these will add travel, I would assume the min. droop would increase...say to 70mm, 75mm, etc. Am I wrong here? Thanks!
I am doing the install myself. I am talking off the OME medium lift I currently have, installing 863's in the rear, new slee heavy duty LCA's, new OEM Rear UCA's, replacing all bushings on the rear Sway bar, 80 series extended sway bar links in the rear, all new sway bar bushings and links in the front, Timbrens front and rear, then the radflo 2.5 remotes front and rear and TC UCA's. On top of all that I have spent a lot of time under the rig cleaing up all the rust and repainting the entire frame. I installed a new OEM CV and rebuilt the other in the spring. A ton of work.
As for bumpers, I have a BOIR rear and an ARB up front. So, I am confused what you mean about the rubber bumper. Since I am already running a min 60mm droop from when I installed the Slee medium lift kit a couple of years ago (with diff drop and OME tbars). I dont plan to raise the truck any more. I am happy with steering and CV's right now. Seeing these will add travel, I would assume the min. droop would increase...say to 70mm, 75mm, etc. Am I wrong here? Thanks!
Yes...you're droop will only increase/get better with the new setup. Timbrens = good.
Thanks Dan! I am really looking forward to everything! I will make sure I am set good at 60mm with the existing OME set up and then post the change after the TC UCA's and Radflo so we can get some accurate info for everyone.
Stoked!
You should pick up about 30mm extra droop based on OME at 60mm.
The Radflo shocks do have a rubber bump stop on the piston shaft, he has put them on all the different shocks for different models Toyota's.
I would give Metal Tech a call and talk to them about your needs and driving style. For me, I live in Southern California and love heading south into the desert and Baja driving at higher speeds. So, a 2.5 remote is a better set up for my needs. That may not be the best set up if I were still living in northern California where the pace was a lot slower and more rocks were involved.