May the flames of hell devour the PHH!!!!

[Romer]

When you are talking 2 hopurs for the PHH, does that include draining the Rad, jacking ip the rig, taking off the tire, changing the hose, putting tire back on, filling the rad OR is it just for the hose part?

 

[Cube Dweller]

2 hours start to finish, rattle gun for the lugs, not flushing the cooling system, just a drain and refill. It would be moving/efficient, no time time for ooopses, and assuming you've done it before.

 

[ryanjl]

Heater? What is that? I don't think mine has seen that setting in Houston.

Actually, it seems as if people who dont use their heater as much because of their climates are the ones who've experienced the most failure with the part.

Just assume its from lack of movement of the fluid within, and the stagnant coolant corrodes the rubber hose faster than moving coolant.

 

[medtro]

These are great wrenches:

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?vertical=TOOL&pid=00944006000&bidsite=&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes

Another version by Craftsman with locking mechanism

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00942401000

 

[landtank]

All that is needed for space between the pipe and nipple on the block is enough room to completely slide the hose onto the pipe so that the end of the hose is flush with the end of the pipe. That way you can swing the pipe back into position and push the hose off of the pipe onto the nipple. Just be sure that the clamps are on the hose as well first.

With this method you really don't need alot of room because you are only sliding the thickness of the hose wall between the two. Of course this is with standard hose, I can't say it will work with that super duper industrial space age stuff.

 

[powderpig]

Any more on a good day I can have the job done in about 45 minutes. Yes start to drain the fluid remove the 2 12mm head bold on the tube(use a long handle flex head ratchet). Lift truck(on rack) while draining the fluid. Turn tire, remove the Lips, use side cutters to remove first clamp. Then use razor knife to cut hose to remove tube. use a toe heal bar to relocate the ends of the spring tension clamp. use pliers to remove clamp, remove hose. put all together. fill with fluid. But I have done a few along side the road also. later robbie

 

[Rookie2]

With this method you really don't need alot of room because you are only sliding the thickness of the hose wall between the two. Of course this is with standard hose, I can't say it will work with that super duper industrial space age stuff.

This is the same way I did it with the Napa Silicone Heater Hose. I don't think I could of done it by putting it on the block nipple first. There just wasn't that much play and movement in the metal down pipe (even after removing the upper bolt) where I could of moved the pipe out enough and worked it onto the hose. Maybe there's another bolt I was supposed to remove somewhere.

 

[elmariachi]

Any more on a good day I can have the job done in about 45 minutes. Lift truck(on rack)later robbie

This is definitely a job to do on a rack. It is otherwise a miserable event to try and get comfortable in the wheel well.

 

[4WD Toyota Owner Magazine]

bolts

I can't beleive what a huge deal this hose change out has become lately. 8 hours and you need a special set of tools. That is a little rediculous. Using a regular set of tools it shouldn't take any more than an hour and a half and you don't need to remove or even loosen the lower bolt.

No, you're right, it doesn't take eight hours. But we did a BUNCH of experimentation of the different methods listed on various web sites, including Mud. With the FlexHead, it could be done in under two hours. We did try it without loosening the lower bracket bolt. It's tough. There is, just barely, enough room to slip the new PHH onto the nipple or tube, but it's hard. However, if you just loosen the lower bracket bolt, it becomes veryt, very easy. So IMHO loosening the bolt is a very smart thing to do and greatly helps the install.

Cheers,

dave

 

[4WD Toyota Owner Magazine]

stats

Land Tank .... I read that to mean that they spent 8 hours trying all the known methods. IE they changed the PHH more than once. The results of all the efforts is one recommendation.

So 4wd TOM- what are the final stats regarding the gear wrench PHH change out???

Under two hours. Maybe even less-seriously. If you can fit in the wheel well, like we did, it will save you a few minutes for the tire removal and jackstands.

For us, loosening the lower bracket bolt was THE trick. Do that, and the tube pivots easily, and you can slide the PHH right on. If we'd done that at the very beginning, it would have been cake.

 

[4WD Toyota Owner Magazine]

angle of wrench

Where are you coming in to that bracket with this wrench, from above, below or from the side??

Right from the top, a couple of degrees to the left of dead center. We put a knee on the top of the engine and one on the battery and reached the FlexHead down. You can reach the lower bracket without attaching a vise grips to the wrench. Then ratchet it loose. The FlexHead wrench definitely works at 5-degree increments. Gawd, I sound like I'm their salesman.

 

[4WD Toyota Owner Magazine]

All that is needed for space between the pipe and nipple on the block is enough room to completely slide the hose onto the pipe so that the end of the hose is flush with the end of the pipe. That way you can swing the pipe back into position and push the hose off of the pipe onto the nipple. Just be sure that the clamps are on the hose as well first.

With this method you really don't need alot of room because you are only sliding the thickness of the hose wall between the two. Of course this is with standard hose, I can't say it will work with that super duper industrial space age stuff.

This could work. We had the same clearance as a previous poster, about 1/4 inch, between the nipple and the tube. You COULD get the pipe to slide on that, but we found it very difficult to get the leverage. We put a vise grip pliers on one of the clamps and tried that, and it just wouldn't go on far enough. The angle is a bizatch. After two hours struggling (and with soapy slick stuff on the PHH and nipple/tube) we troed loosening the lower bracket.

Your mileage may vary, of course.

 

[IdahoDoug]

Wow, amazing how different everyone's experience has been with the PHH. I've done three of them on as many different 80s and it would be a 30 minute job if not for getting the old clamp closest to the block off the nipple. These have been fiendishly placed to make getting them off a "pick-slip-pick-rotate .345 degree" affair until you have the clamp ends where 10 seconds with pliers can get them off. That's the stage that alone has taken me anywhere from an hour to an hour and a half to get done.

Read here on the forum and you'll find many excellent tricks that negate the need to remove the lower bolt. You simply remove the upper bolt, flex the pipe back an eighth inch at the block nipple and slip the new hose on the pipe. Let go of the pipe, slip two hose clamps on it, then slide the hose off the pipe and onto the block. Done. Tighten clamps and grin to yourself how nice it will be in 10 years to remove the clamps and hose in 15 minutes since you have now placed them to come off easily.

Don't get me wrong, I think the whole exercise was interesting. Just that here on the forum 15 minutes of reading will produce several ways of doing this quickly.

DougM

 

[landtank]

but we found it very difficult to get the leverage.

There's your whole problem, there was 2 of you in the wheel well together. Actually suggesting people jump up on the engine to work on it is a little dangerous. People have damaged their radiators from getting up there never mind all the other more fragile stuff that could get damaged.

Next time you might try a bowl of wheaties for breakfast instead of a double whipped latte.

 

[4WD Toyota Owner Magazine]

There's your whole problem, there was 2 of you in the wheel well together. Actually suggesting people jump up on the engine to work on it is a little dangerous. People have damaged their radiators from getting up there never mind all the other more fragile stuff that could get damaged.

Next time you might try a bowl of wheaties for breakfast instead of a double whipped latte.

???? Two of us in the wheel well????? Where did you get that idea?

There was just one: me...."Us" and "We" means the magazine...

I'm not sure of a better way--or of ANY other way-- to access that lower bracket than from on top of the block. You cannot reach it from the sides of the car or underneath. Naturally, you'll want to be careful where you put hands, feet, noses, long hair, etc.

Anyway, I didn't start the thread to claim our way was any better than another method. Whatever works, I say, go for it. There are plenty of suggestions all over the net and most of them are solid.

Two people in the wheel well That's funny!

 

[Rich]

I accessed the lower bracket bolt from underneath. I removed the bolt, and reinstalled the bolt from underneath. Doing so made the whole job a lot easier. I have posted 2 or 3 times how to do so. Takes a couple of minutes total on and off. Of course, this does not include prep time to jack vehicle, remove tire, skirts, etc. For me, this is the best way. I have no doubt that other's experience varies.

I agree with Landtank. The whole job is being over sensationalized. The work is a bit challenging and requires thought and patience. It is no big thing.

 

[landtank]

most people approach the task by accessing the hose from the driver's wheel well. Since you said "we couldn't get enough leverage" I was joking in that there was 2 of you in the wheel well.

So how in the hell were you trying to put that hose on the tube? If you weren't reaching in from the wheel well, where the hell were you coming in from?

 

[powderpig]

Ever hear of Mechanic's descriction(MD)? I personally do not see what this second bolt is for except back up. the one bolt on top is enough IMHO. As for another thought is that in the field if you needed to change this hose(like on a long trip) it make for a lot easier time to do the hose. So what do the people think about this. MD is used alot in the real world, wheither the wrench is the guy doing the repairs in the shop or the field. Things are done to make life easier with out the loss of intergerty of the part.
Just a though for you all. later robbie

 

[Radd Cruisers]

most people approach the task by accessing the hose from the driver's wheel well. Since you said "we couldn't get enough leverage" I was joking in that there was 2 of you in the wheel well.

So how in the hell were you trying to put that hose on the tube? If you weren't reaching in from the wheel well, where the hell were you coming in from?

He said hell two times, thats funny(bevis and buthead voice)ha ha ha ha ha ha.......