Major Maintenance Questions (1 Viewer)

Joined
Dec 31, 2015
Messages
119
Location
Mississippi
Back story.... Ever since we purchased the 2013 LC for my wife 3 years ago, I've had the temptation to get one for myself to lightly build. Well, about 6 months ago I did just that. I found a nice 2008 with 180k miles that had been well taken care of. Since it's not my primary vehicle I've been slowly adding to it and tinkering with it while driving it on the weekends. Well, as you may have seen in another thread, I've taken it on two major trips lately totaling almost 4k miles. It has given me the chance to get a true feel for the vehicle and made me want to start using it as my daily driver instead of my Tundra. I love my Tundra and I will probably miss having the convenience of the bed, but I just enjoy driving the LC more, so the Tundra is up for sale.

So that brings me to the purpose of this thread. Before the Tundra is gone, I really want to be as preventative as possible and replace all practical wear items on the LC while I have the time before the Tundra sells. To do that I need y'alls advice, and as much info as possible, on everything that I should replace to get another 100k miles out of this thing. I do know that the previous owner had the starter and drive belt replaced at 110k miles ,and the last coolant flush and brake flush was at 130k miles. I will also add that this thing is showing no signs of any wear. It drives just as tight and quiet as my wife's 2013 with 38k miles. Its not burning any oil, no leaks, no funny smells, not making any weird noises, brakes are good, and the radiator looks solid.

Here is the list I'm starting with:

Fluid Changes (all Amsoil Fluids):
Front/Rear Diffs
Transfer Case
Transmission Full Fluid Exchange
Brake Flush

Replacements:
Water Pump and Radiator (w/ Coolant Change)
Thermostat
Alternator (is there a heavier duty option?)
Belt and All Drive Pulleys/Tensioner
A/C Compressor
Spark Plugs and Wires
O2 Sensors
Starter (replace again?)


Please add anything I'm missing. (or tell me I'm going overboard 🤪) Links to parts and how to's, photos, manuals, etc. would be greatly appreciated. Also, as I go through this process, I will post up photos and tips that I may learn along the way in this thread.
 

KLF

Frame waxer
SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 5, 2003
Messages
9,109
Location
Southern NH
I think the AC compressor is overboard, but you could possibly get a recharge of the refrigerant.

Hoses when you do the radiator.
 
Joined
Oct 19, 2017
Messages
530
Location
Conroe, TX
MSU LC200-Congrats on the 200 purchase. I personally drive a 99 100 series, but purchased a 2010 with 172k last year for my wife. It was a 1 owner Texas vehicle with excellent service records. I documented my PM in build thread The Mall Crusher here on Mud. I would certainly baseline all your fluids as first step. Would recommend changing your upper/lower radiator hose and cap when you replace radiator. Also check your heater tee's. Don't seem to be a big noted issue on the 200's, but they are crucial with the 100 series. I just get nervous about plastic parts of the coolant system under heat and pressure for that many miles (just my personal opinion). You can swap the plastic OEM tee's for metal ones (those should last forever-this is what I did). This can be done for under $50 bucks. Add a thermostat gasket when you change the thermostat. I also changed my fan clutch as well when I did the belt/tensioner/idler. Wouldn't worry about the AC Compressor, O2 sensors, or starter. Have not heard of an A/C Compressor failing yet. Your starter should be good for another 100k. O2 sensor are any easy change if you get a light and will not leave you stranded if one goes bad. Coil packs may last you much longer. I am still running my originals. Might want to just buy 1 or 2 as a spare in case you run into an issue. Easy to swap out. Your shocks/struts are probably going to be due sometime in the future. I had a rear one going out so I replaced all 4 with OEM. Hope this helps.
 

Weedhopper

Rust Patrol
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Mar 9, 2007
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1,616
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HUH ? Oh..... CT
Not sure a 200 has a separate transmission oil cooler but keeping the transmission fluid and coolant separate can save a lot of grief. Cheap insurance.
 
Joined
Dec 31, 2015
Messages
119
Location
Mississippi
Thanks @NHouston ! Great feedback. I’ll look your thread up. As far as the compressor, I figured that I might as well change it while I have that area all apart anyway. And I’m good on the suspension since I recently installed the Tough Dog kit.
 
Joined
Jul 26, 2016
Messages
214
Location
Portland OR
You may want to service the throttle body and replace the pcv valve as well. Be sure to use the iridium spark plugs and check your coils for any cracks or carbon tracking.
 
Joined
Dec 31, 2015
Messages
119
Location
Mississippi
So this is what I've comprised. If anyone knows of an easy way for me to embed the spreadsheet let me know. (Edit: I attached the file. Tell me if its working or not.) It has hyperlinks to part sites and how to's on the fluid changes. One thing I don't have yet are part numbers or sourcing for the cooling system plumbing that I'll replace with metallics over plastics.

I thought I would change my mind and go all OEM Fluids, but after some reading and price comparisons, I'm reverting back to the original plan with Amsoil.

Something additional I will do is go ahead and replace my front brakes and rotors. The rears were done 5k miles ago.

I don't think I'm going to do the starter or ignition coils at this time, but I am going to do the AC compressor. Not because of the compressor necessarily, but because of the clutch and pulley potentially failing. Plus I might as well since I'll have everything apart. As you can see below, I can get the entire assy from Rock Auto (Denso) for over 100 bucks cheaper than just the OEM clutch and pulley.

So all in, I'm looking at around $2500 in parts (going with alternative route). I think that's good insurance for the future.

If anyone sees anything I'm missing, please chime in. I'm sure there are some fasteners/o-rings/gaskets that I need to have on hand. Hopefully the service manual will give me a heads up on that when I find time to read it before I start turning wrenches.

1903711
 

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