MAF & TB Plate Cleaning - PICS

[ntsaint]

ntsaint, it looks like I have the same MAF as you. I simply ripped the "permanent" post-filter element from my airbox to access the MAF instead of removing it. The element is not needed - it's not on the older trucks - and only causes more restriction on incoming air.

Anyway, when you do that, you can see the wire inside the MAF by looking up the tube towards the TB from the filter box. Spray that little wire w/o touching it. It should be the opposite side of your third pic you attached of your MAF.

On the TB, did you open the butterfly valve in the TB? The "filter" side of my TB looked that that too @ 54k miles. However, if you use a piece of plastic to open the BF valve, you will see some nasty black crud inside the body. I sprayed the **** out of it w/ aerosol seafoam, let it soak in, then wiped it out as best I could w/ a rag. It was NASTY.

Yes, i cleaned the backside of the butterfly...wasn't much dirtier than the front.

You don't happen to have pics of what you did to rip out the permanent post filter element do you? That makes me a tad nervous...

 

[lhommec13]

Something strange happened to me in my 2000 Hundy about 6 months ago that also recently reared it's head on the new-to-me 2007.

In the 2000, MPG's fell WAY off with no other indicators of an issue. After a few days of driving, I found myself in a situation where I had to back and turn as I left a parking spot. I got a little drivetrain bind as I reversed and had the wheel turned. The obvious WTF hit my face and I knew it was the center diff locked, but there were no lights indicating it on the dash. Checked the button on the console and sure enough, the button was depressed, locking the differential in the transfer case.

Once I unlocked the diff, the MPG's went right back up. I could press the button and the lights would come on as usual. I don't know why they weren't on before, but they worked every time I tried it afterwards, so I wrote it off as being part of the ECU issue I was having and forgot about it.

Fast forward to yesterday... I'm driving down to a meeting in my 07 and I'm only getting 14.6 MPG @ 70 MPH. I normally get 17+ on the highway. Truck feels funny on the slow banking turns of the interstate and I actually have to give it a touch more throttle in the turns to maintain speed. No lights indicating any issues are showing on the dash. Well, after driving 200+ miles and parking, I come out with a client to take him to lunch and back out of my parking spot. I immidiately feel the driveline bind and I look at the dash - no lights. Look at the switch and it's depressed. I de-activate the center diff lock and no lights. Push again to activate and the lights come on.

Strange.

After un-locking the center diff, the truck immediately went back to "normal" handling and on-road feel and the MPG's on the way home was an average 17.6 when it was only 14.6 for the trip up.

Needless to say, CHECK THE CENTER DIFF LOCK SWITCH, even if the lights aren't on. Only thing I can attribute this to is that a few days before my 7-yr-old son was in the truck and pushed some of the NAV buttons. I guess he pushed the CDL button too (he can't remember now) when the truck was not running, but the key was in the ACC position. For some reason the status wasn't indicated with the light on the dash and the VSC OFF didn't illuminate either, even thought the button was depressed and the CDL was definitely locked.
Worth checking if you're running abnormally low MPGs for sure.

Good to know. Just to make sure...the CDL button was depressed both times, even though no dash lights came on right? I get horrible gas mileage but I'm positive the CDL button is not in the locked position. I just want to make sure the button position is a true indicator of whether the CDL is locked or not.

 

[lexi4darin]

Good to know. Just to make sure...the CDL button was depressed both times, even though no dash lights came on right? I get horrible gas mileage but I'm positive the CDL button is not in the locked position. I just want to make sure the button position is a true indicator of whether the CDL is locked or not.

You'll be able to feel the difference. Why don't you try depressing the button to see if the lights do/don't activate, which would be a good indicator. If not (maybe some type of problem) but you'll be able to drive around the block and feel the driveline binding and the truck dynamics are different.

 

[lexi4darin]

And don't be nervous if the CDL takes a bit of time to engage/disengage. This is pretty normal 15-20 seconds on the longer side would be normal. Sometimes you can drive straight and then de/accelerate a couple times to help the system engage or disengage.

 

[2000UZJ]

mine is instant. But I also use it every weekend.

 

[bamachem]

Good to know. Just to make sure...the CDL button was depressed both times, even though no dash lights came on right? I get horrible gas mileage but I'm positive the CDL button is not in the locked position. I just want to make sure the button position is a true indicator of whether the CDL is locked or not.

The button will be inset into the dash panel just a little when it is activated. When deactivated, it is protruding just a little more.

Both times, once in each truck, the button was depressed, and the CDL was locked, but there were no lights indicating it on the dash. In doing my reading on the subject, it appears that the trigger for the lights is actually in the switch itself. It would be a good idea to "exercise" it occasionally, just like the Hi/Lo selecter, and an E-locker if you have a 98/99.

 

[bamachem]

Yes, i cleaned the backside of the butterfly...wasn't much dirtier than the front.

You don't happen to have pics of what you did to rip out the permanent post filter element do you? That makes me a tad nervous...

It is held in by 6 or 8 little plastic posts that have the tips melted to hold the element to the top of the box. I simply slipped a flat-head screw driver between the box and the element and just popped it loose at each little plastic stud then removed it. I put it away to keep it for later, just in case.

 

[uzj100]

Is the post filter a box attached to air pipe headed to the tb? How did you fill the hole, a hole new pipe? How about stock pipe with a piece of flexible pipe wrapped around and clamped on?

 

[bamachem]

Is the post filter a box attached to air pipe headed to the tb? How did you fill the hole, a hole new pipe? How about stock pipe with a piece of flexible pipe wrapped around and clamped on?

It's the exact size and shape as the OEM paper filter, but it's only 1/4" thick. It is comprised of some type of synthetic fibrous filter media that is sandwiched in a net "mesh" with a plastic ring around the outside. I have it at home - I'll try to snap some pics this evening.

The OEM paper filter is the primary element in removing dirt/debris from the intake. This is a non-replacable secondary element that keeps any of the paper filter from being sucked into the intake in case a mouse gets in the airbox and chews a hole in the paper, like one did in my 2000 UZJ about a year ago.

 

[uzj100]

IS this it?

See my pic? Is that what you are talking about?

 

[hoser]

It's the exact size and shape as the OEM paper filter, but it's only 1/4" thick. It is comprised of some type of synthetic fibrous filter media that is sandwiched in a net "mesh" with a plastic ring around the outside. I have it at home - I'll try to snap some pics this evening.

The OEM paper filter is the primary element in removing dirt/debris from the intake. This is a non-replacable secondary element that keeps any of the paper filter from being sucked into the intake in case a mouse gets in the airbox and chews a hole in the paper, like one did in my 2000 UZJ about a year ago.

This is a charcoal filter on newer vehicles. When you shut-off your engine, there are residual fumes that travel up the intake manifold. This filter captures those fumes. It may or may not make a performance different but surely, it doesn't help airflow.

For those who live in strict smog areas, a thorough smog tech might spot the removal of this filter.

 

[bamachem]

As hoser said, that's something else. This is inside the LID to the paper filter box. When you lift the lid, you cannot see the MAF because there is another element in the way, but this one is "permanently" mounted to the lid and is not servicable. Mine is now in my garage.

 

[uzj100]

I will remove the item inside the lid this weekend and take a picture. Thanks!

 

[hoser]

As hoser said, that's something else. This is inside the LID to the paper filter box. When you lift the lid, you cannot see the MAF because there is another element in the way, but this one is "permanently" mounted to the lid and is not servicable. Mine is now in my garage.

Actually, Andy, I was talking about the part you removed. I have not seen one in a 100 yet but I have the additional charcoal filter in my '08 BMW.

Does the part you removed look like this? This is from a 2nd gen Tacoma.

 

[hoser]

Andy, or does it look like this?

 

[bamachem]

Actually, Andy, I was talking about the part you removed. I have not seen one in a 100 yet but I have the additional charcoal filter in my '08 BMW.

Does the part you removed look like this? This is from a 2nd gen Tacoma.

BINGO. That's it.

 

[uzj100]

I dont think I have that in the top of my 2000 airbox. I will confirm this afternoon.

 

[hoser]

Unlikely. I think they started putting them in most cars in/around 2005.

 

[bamachem]

I dont think I have that in the top of my 2000 airbox. I will confirm this afternoon.

don't waste your time looking - you don't have one.

 

[uzj100]

Great. Now I can spend time replacing the drivers side mirror on my wifes GX that someone was nice enough to hit (break) and leave.