LRA aux tank install

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Great thread guys. @Outsane @80t0ylc any longer term feedback on pump location? Kicking around optimal spot...probably doesn't matter assuming it's not excessively far away from the tank and also correctly placed vertically (latest instructions state 12" from bottom of tank to pump). We were going to catch one of the captive nuts on the floor like originally posted in this thread, but considering dropping down a bit based on the feedback here.

And any suggestions on pulling 12v power? Cig lighter? I'd like to be able to run it when the key is out/truck is parked.

Excited for the extra range. And to install that clean Solvefunction knockout for the LRA gauge...so clean! Appreciate the guidance on the wire routing as well - aiming to follow that.

Thanks guys!
Electric fuel pumps traditionally pump better than they suck, meaning - locate the pump close as possible to tank. I believe that's why many OEM pumps are actually in the tank. I originally had my pump attached to the the floor, but moved it to where it is now. In front of the tank, below the top of the tank, near the rear panhard rod, similar to @Outsane 's location.
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Good power connection on it's own circuit (not shared) would be my choice and as @Outsane mentioned, fuse is important. Not real excited about running pump with the ignition off. It's real easy to get distracted and not get back to the rig to shut it down, as necessary. As much as it seems like a good idea to pump fuel while the rig is parked, the negatives of what could happen when your attention is compromised, to me is not worth it. And for safety's sake, it makes sense for pump not to run with key off.
 
@Outsane , here's a pic of the location where I chose. It's mounted to the frame member that the front of the aux tank is mounted to, above the panhard rod. Looks like yours is mounted to the brace that's part of the floor or body of the 80. If you measure up from the bottom of your aux tank, you'll see that the body mount is like twice the distance which makes the pump work outside it's designed perameters. The pump initially works, but will tend to fail with frequent and extended use. That's been my experience with tank installed for over 2 years, now.
View attachment 3062853
This is not a great location for mounting the fuel pump.
Per @Outsane
 
This is not a great location for mounting the fuel pump.
Per @Outsane

That video is with Delta's rear panhard rod leveling bracket installed, which is one reason why the panhard hits the frame. I have removed my leveling bracket, went back to original panhard setup. Also, because of the extra weight of the aux tank, plus towing tongue weight, I've removed the bump stops and installed air bags. So barring a catastrophic loss of air and a severe bump, chances are there would not be a problem. Also off road, I've learned with experience and especially at my age to not be lead footed with the throttle pedal. But, believe me, the location weighed heavy on my mind, until I removed the DVS bracket. No disrespect to the bracket or DVS intended. But with my 2.5" lift, I didn't really feel a difference between stock or with the bracket installed.
 
I have this kit too - bought it from a fellow cruiser head second hand (new condition just never installed by PO). Just haven't got around to installing it yet. Outsane's thread here is motivating me to get this done.

Question for @Outsane... Any specific prep/precautions for cutting the fuel lines?

Definitely want to avoid fire/explosion, and could use any details or best practices in this area of cutting the fuel lines.

Thanks in advance!
 
Here is where I put my fuel transfer pump as shown be the newly installed rivnuts. I made a little metal standoff bracket to attach the pump to the crossmember.

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Here it is with the suspension compressed, with the DeltaVS Panhard bracket installed.
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Question for @Outsane... Any specific prep/precautions for cutting the fuel lines?

Definitely want to avoid fire/explosion, and could use any details or best practices in this area of cutting the fuel lines.

Thanks in advance!

I marked a line and cut with a reciprocating saw with a Long blade. So far 0/2 on explosions. Moon was in waxing gibbous both times.
 
Pulled off the rear diff breather hose and plan to use the same captive nut to mount one end of the fuel pump (other end will be tapped/bolted through the mounting plate). I'll grab some pics in the morning, but using that exact same frame crossmember that both @Outsane and @80t0ylc are using. Leaves the pump semi-accessible without having to drop. And shouldn't have any sort of clearance/interference risks there since it's on the frame and none of the travel components could potentially contact. That crossmember leaves the pump towards the upper half of the tank, short run on the 'sucking' side, and business as usual on the outlet side up into the tee/main tank.

Thanks for the feedback on the power...will probably go in the same direction with something keyed on/off linked to ignition rather than always hot off of the cig lighter. The pump does have an 'auto shutoff', but had not considered the light always being illuminated off of somewhere like the cig lighter.
 
I have this kit too - bought it from a fellow cruiser head second hand (new condition just never installed by PO). Just haven't got around to installing it yet. Outsane's thread here is motivating me to get this done.

Question for @Outsane... Any specific prep/precautions for cutting the fuel lines?

Definitely want to avoid fire/explosion, and could use any details or best practices in this area of cutting the fuel lines.

Thanks in advance!

@LandCruncher80 we just made a cut yesterday as well without any issues. Mark both lines along the inside of the frame rail and then disconnect the leading edge of the OEM filler neck and smaller vent tube from the rubber connections up near the OEM main tank (we used ample WD-40 to break everything loose initially - and then lots of physical persuasion to yank them loose). Once those are loose, plug the OEM main tank with some paper towels or anything else handy to keep them clean from debris/avoid excessive fumes. Also shot a small amount of air down the disconnected section before making cuts - no issues whatsoever. Chopped it with a cordless Dewalt Sawzall (and a cheap @$$ Harbor Freight fine-tooth metal blade). Deburred with a tiger disc and a file afterwards - no issues at all.
 
Great thread guys. @Outsane @80t0ylc any longer term feedback on pump location? Kicking around optimal spot...probably doesn't matter assuming it's not excessively far away from the tank and also correctly placed vertically (latest instructions state 12" from bottom of tank to pump). We were going to catch one of the captive nuts on the floor like originally posted in this thread, but considering dropping down a bit based on the feedback here.

And any suggestions on pulling 12v power? Cig lighter? I'd like to be able to run it when the key is out/truck is parked.

Excited for the extra range. And to install that clean Solvefunction knockout for the LRA gauge...so clean! Appreciate the guidance on the wire routing as well - aiming to follow that.

Thanks guys!
Hi folks, I took the cig-light as the 12V-source. Wanted to run the pump only at key in "Start" mode to revent misuse in case somebody hits the switch coincidental and leaves the vehicle. The position of the pump on the frame can be seen in the attached slide show. I mounted it according to the instructions.
During the recent Morocco trip (8000km) I had no issue with the filling from sub to main tank. Always refilled on-the-fly. Would recommend it and consider it as super useful to have a lot of gas on board. Of cause the bills are painful +EUR 400.- for a total of 260liter. It worked all excellent in Northern Africa. Had other issues with the fan-clutch and the A/C but no suit this thread.

View attachment 3491944
 

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Hi folks, I took the cig-light as the 12V-source. Wanted to run the pump only at key in "Start" mode to revent misuse in case somebody hits the switch coincidental and leaves the vehicle. The position of the pump on the frame can be seen in the attached slide show. I mounted it according to the instructions.
During the recent Morocco trip (8000km) I had no issue with the filling from sub to main tank. Always refilled on-the-fly. Would recommend it and consider it as super useful to have a lot of gas on board. Of cause the bills are painful +EUR 400.- for a total of 260liter. It worked all excellent in Northern Africa. Had other issues with the fan-clutch and the A/C but no suit this thread.

View attachment 3491944
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Years later, how is everyone's tanks doing? Any updates to components or things you would differently in hindsight? I've had mine in the garage for almost a year now and going to finally get around to installing it this weekend.
 
still everything fine ... no issues with the sub-tank and the refill
 
Years later, how is everyone's tanks doing? Any updates to components or things you would differently in hindsight? I've had mine in the garage for almost a year now and going to finally get around to installing it this weekend.
This post is an FYI to be aware of - LRA may have fixed this on their current kits.

I had to modify my setup from what LRA provided as far as switch and wire gauge for the pump. (see my post #51 in this thread) It seems that the switch to engage the fuel pump and the wire gauge for 12v to the fuel pump were not up to the task. Symptoms were slow pump performance and the pump randomly shutting off on its own. Now it works flawlessly. And the provided combo switch/fuel gage works fine as just a fuel gage for the aux tank.
 
Got some weird behavior out of mine...it's always empty. 🤔 All joking aside, the LRA aux tank has been awesome. ~500 mile range on a 37's is pretty nice, and could probably chase a little further running a more moderate speed. Install was reasonably straight forward other than all the 'first time' quirks...could install the next one in half the time after working through the first install. Cutting the factory fill tube is simple, just measure correctly. And no wiring issues on my unit like @80t0ylc mentioned...the gauge in the cabin is accurate, on/off switch works well, and the auto-off feature is nice (when aux is empty, pump shuts off automatically). Once you've got everything mocked up on the truck, check your feed tubes between the tanks and the pump to ensure nothing is kinked or making tight turns...we fired up initially and pump was running but starving - found a little kink in one of the feed lines...easy fix (some of the visual access is tough once the tank is in place!). I recessed the crossmember just a bit deeper on my Labs rear bumper when fabbing with the intention of catching the rear mounting flange of the LRA tank, and luckily all measurements were close enough to drill some holes through and mount the tank to the bumper (rather than using the LRA provided crossmember...now in the pile of other garage leftover parts in case I ever switch up the rear bumper setup). The dual filler neck works fine, just be cautious once you're up around 23-24gal into the aux so you're not running the station pump at full throttle with the auto shutoff...had a little gasoline geyser out the side of the truck one one fill up when I wasn't paying attention. 😅

Expensive convenience mod, but easily one of my favorite mods on the 80!

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I have had mine installed since 2018 and I have had no issues with it, all has worked as intended. I did run my own wiring, mounted where suggested and used supplied switch/gauge assembly.
 
This thread and my last post must have jinxed me...fired on the pump to fill the main from the aux tank earlier this week when I got the truck out, and she KO'd after about 3 seconds of pumping. Need to pull off the lower kick panel and see if any fuses in the 'add-a-fuse' are cooked on the cabin fuse block, otherwise off to chasing wiring we go. Literally zero issues for 18+ months and multiple full tanks being pumped over the main. Hoping this was a fluke but mostly concerned about similar wiring shortcomings that @80t0ylc mentioned needing upgraded. 🤔
 
I would try powering thr pump directly if the fuses are good.

good luck

Good suggestion as a starting point...will let y'all know what I find out when I've got some time to dig around later. :bang:
 
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