LRA aux tank install

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@Outsane , here's a pic of the location where I chose. It's mounted to the frame member that the front of the aux tank is mounted to, above the panhard rod. Looks like yours is mounted to the brace that's part of the floor or body of the 80. If you measure up from the bottom of your aux tank, you'll see that the body mount is like twice the distance which makes the pump work outside it's designed perameters. The pump initially works, but will tend to fail with frequent and extended use. That's been my experience with tank installed for over 2 years, now.
IMG_1464a.webp
 
mattimooseprime said:
I want to do this so bad. not sure if I want the 25 or 40 gallon though. would be ridiculous to have almost 70 gallons of fuel. How long does it take to transfer fuel between tanks?
Click to expand...
A few minutes to transfer. Quick enough
 
Outsane said:
I would still go for the smaller tank, it's still a lot of extra gas. All depends on what kind of wheeling you do.

My driveway is on a slant, I'll get more pictures.
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24 gallons is a lot of extra gas. The OEM sub-tank was 50 litres, 24 gallons is about 90 litres.

I've put 90litre tanks in the back of previous cruisers. More than that is unnecessary unless you're doing extremely remote travel, or lots of low range travel in remote areas.

Even 90 litres of fuel right at the back is a noticeable weight penalty.
 
mudgudgeon said:
24 gallons is a lot of extra gas. The OEM sub-tank was 50 litres, 24 gallons is about 90 litres.

I've put 90litre tanks in the back of previous cruisers. More than that is unnecessary unless you're doing extremely remote travel, or lots of low range travel in remote areas.

Even 90 litres of fuel right at the back is a noticeable weight penalty.
Click to expand...
The 24 gallon tank effectively doubles the stock capacity of the petrol 80 series (don’t know about diesel capacities). You can forget jerrycans and all their storage and fuel spout issues. Except for the co$t at fuel stops nowadays, you’ll never look back. Also gives you more options for picking the cheapest fuel stop. Rock crawlers might consider fabbing a skid plate - I put a small dent in mine coming off a ledge - easy to forget it’s there. I needed to put rear airbags in to level out the rear with full tank weight plus tongue weight of my trailer.
 
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80t0ylc said:
The 24 gallon tank effectively doubles the stock capacity of the petrol 80 series (don’t know about diesel capacities). You can forget jerrycans and all their storage and fuel spout issues. Except for the co$t at fuel stops nowadays, you’ll never look back. Also gives you more options for picking the cheapest fuel stop. Rock crawlers might consider fabbing a skid plate - I put a small dent in mine coming off a ledge - easy to forget it’s there. I needed to put rear airbags in to level out the rear with full tank weight plus tongue weight of my trailer.
Click to expand...

diesel capacity is the same as gas, really helps for longer trips. Mine's go a little bit of stinkbug in the back so the extra weight would help level it out lol. having 42 extra gallons would be neat for the ability to essentially drive from Seattle to LA and partway back without needing to fillup, but man that would be some weight. Would consider a brake upgrade just to carry the fuel! It's a shame the body and frame design don't allow for one massive tank to be put in the OEM and the aux spot. That would be slick.
 
So what is the cost associated !
 
Outsane said:
In case it helps some one else.

This took me half a day in my tilted driveway, spare was already removed.

I mostly followed the instructions, these are just some things I did that are 80 specific.

Included parts supplied with the tank, front tank mount is attached to the tank with a throw away nut. Use the nylocks for installation
View attachment 3060467



Wiring
I 3dprinted a switch insert available from solvefunction.com
View attachment 3060468


Ran the wires down the left side to a perfectly placed grommet in the rear passenger footwell.

View attachment 3060469

View attachment 3060470

Now to chop!
As the instructions said to cut fuel fill and vent on the inside of the frame rail.

I used a reciprocating saw (sawzall), but did not need to remove or unclamp anything. Deburr please.
View attachment 3060471
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@Outsane nice job. I am going to install the same type but different size (42gal). Just had an overview on the shipped parts. What are the shore wires blue and red for (first pic)?
 
Outsane said:
Another angle for the chop.
View attachment 3060475

Wire mount in fuel pump
I followed Jason at Ozark Overland for this one to find a location. I did need to buy and extra 4ft of 3/8 fuel hose. Use the provided bracket and I o0ened up the holes to use bolts and washers to mount the pump to the plate and plate to an existing nut in the frame.
View attachment 3060477
View attachment 3060478

Assemble parts on the tank and fuel fill lines
View attachment 3060480

Everything else is in good instructions.
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Would the rear beam at it two through holes work as a proper location for the fuel pump?

Screenshot 2023-05-10 102939.webp

The LRA instruction says the pump has to be positioned 12in above the bottom tank level. Somewhere in ths thread it was written 6in distance in height. With installed there its easy access and can be adjusted by an extension bar.

1683707944139.webp
 
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Beast of Berlin said:
Would the rear beam at it two through holes work as a proper location for the fuel pump?

View attachment 3319106
The LRA instruction says the pump has to be positioned 12in above the bottom tank level. Somewhere in ths thread it was written 6in distance in height. With installed there its easy access and can be adjusted by an extension bar.

View attachment 3319108
Click to expand...
I‘m not sure what the LRA instructions said at the time of my install, but when LRA sent me a new fuel pump, due to the problems I was having (intermittent no flow with the appearance of it working because I could hear the pump working), I carefully read the instructions on the fuel pump package and it said specifically, mount fuel pump within 6” of the bottom of the fuel tank you are pumping from. My fuel pump has worked flawlessly since then. The easier you make it for the pump, the better it will perform, IMHO.
 
80t0ylc said:
I‘m not sure what the LRA instructions said at the time of my install, but when LRA sent me a new fuel pump, due to the problems I was having (intermittent no flow with the appearance of it working because I could hear the pump working), I carefully read the instructions on the fuel pump package and it said specifically, mount fuel pump within 6” of the bottom of the fuel tank you are pumping from. My fuel pump has worked flawlessly since then. The easier you make it for the pump, the better it will perform, IMHO.
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Thanks, I will have it in mind in case of trouble. I think these type of roller pumps must have a check-valve to always start-up but intake length is an issue...
 
mattimooseprime said:
diesel capacity is the same as gas, really helps for longer trips. Mine's go a little bit of stinkbug in the back so the extra weight would help level it out lol. having 42 extra gallons would be neat for the ability to essentially drive from Seattle to LA and partway back without needing to fillup, but man that would be some weight. Would consider a brake upgrade just to carry the fuel! It's a shame the body and frame design don't allow for one massive tank to be put in the OEM and the aux spot. That would be slick.
Click to expand...
Someday I'd like to add more capacity, would a brake upgrade really be needed?

How much does gasoline weigh?
6.2-6.4 pounds per US gallon
7.2 pounds per Imperial gallon

for the small rear tank (24 gallons):
24 gallons x 6.4 = 153.6 pounds (US gallons)
24 gallons x 7.2 = 172.8 pounds (Imperial gallons)

for the large rear tank (42 gallons):
42 gallons x 6.4 = 268.8 pounds (US gallons)
42 gallons x 7.2 = 302.4 pounds (Imperial gallons)

For the larger size tank that replaces the stock tank, the stock tank is I think a little over 24 gallons, the large belly tank is 37 gallons, so it has a 13 gallon increase in capacity
The weight increase with gasoline is
13 gallons x 6.4 = 83.2 pounds (US gallons)
13 gallons x 7.2 = 93.6 pounds (Imperial gallons)

For Diesel
How much does Diesel weigh?
6.8-8 pounds per US gallon (most places seem to use 7.1 pounds)
8.2-9.6 pounds per Imperial gallon (most places seem to use 8.9 pounds)

for the small rear tank (24 gallons):
24 gallons x 7.1 = 170.4 pounds (US gallons)
24 gallons x 8.9 = 213.6 pounds (Imperial gallons)

for the large rear tank (42 gallons):
42 gallons x 7.1 = 298.2 pounds (US gallons)
42 gallons x 8.9 = 373.8 pounds (Imperial gallons)

For the larger size tank that replaces the stock tank, again a 13 gallon increase in capacity
The weight increase with gasoline is
13 gallons x 7.1 = 92.3 pounds (US gallons)
13 gallons x 8.9 = 115.7 pounds (Imperial gallons)

Even with the largest weight increase, the max addition is 375 pounds plus the weight of the tank, is a brake upgrade needed?
I think a lot of the overlanders add more weight than that (I could be wrong) and I don't see a lot of talk about upgrading their brakes.
I plan to swap a diesel in and add hydroboost, the hydroboost should be enough I think.

Looking back at the links, it appears only the small rear tank is capable of diesel though.
Does anyone know if the other tanks have an option that would allow them to carry diesel?
 
Rollinns said:
Someday I'd like to add more capacity, would a brake upgrade really be needed?

How much does gasoline weigh?
6.2-6.4 pounds per US gallon
7.2 pounds per Imperial gallon

for the small rear tank (24 gallons):
24 gallons x 6.4 = 153.6 pounds (US gallons)
24 gallons x 7.2 = 172.8 pounds (Imperial gallons)

for the large rear tank (42 gallons):
42 gallons x 6.4 = 268.8 pounds (US gallons)
42 gallons x 7.2 = 302.4 pounds (Imperial gallons)

For the larger size tank that replaces the stock tank, the stock tank is I think a little over 24 gallons, the large belly tank is 37 gallons, so it has a 13 gallon increase in capacity
The weight increase with gasoline is
13 gallons x 6.4 = 83.2 pounds (US gallons)
13 gallons x 7.2 = 93.6 pounds (Imperial gallons)

For Diesel
How much does Diesel weigh?
6.8-8 pounds per US gallon (most places seem to use 7.1 pounds)
8.2-9.6 pounds per Imperial gallon (most places seem to use 8.9 pounds)

for the small rear tank (24 gallons):
24 gallons x 7.1 = 170.4 pounds (US gallons)
24 gallons x 8.9 = 213.6 pounds (Imperial gallons)

for the large rear tank (42 gallons):
42 gallons x 7.1 = 298.2 pounds (US gallons)
42 gallons x 8.9 = 373.8 pounds (Imperial gallons)

For the larger size tank that replaces the stock tank, again a 13 gallon increase in capacity
The weight increase with gasoline is
13 gallons x 7.1 = 92.3 pounds (US gallons)
13 gallons x 8.9 = 115.7 pounds (Imperial gallons)

Even with the largest weight increase, the max addition is 375 pounds plus the weight of the tank, is a brake upgrade needed?
I think a lot of the overlanders add more weight than that (I could be wrong) and I don't see a lot of talk about upgrading their brakes.
I plan to swap a diesel in and add hydroboost, the hydroboost should be enough I think.

Looking back at the links, it appears only the small rear tank is capable of diesel though.
Does anyone know if the other tanks have an option that would allow them to carry diesel?
Click to expand...


I don't really think it'd be needed, especially after driving for a long time after my swap with the hydroboost. I've put 1000lbs in the rear and it didn't make a difference, stopped great. I'd like to do an upgrade anyhow just to have the extra stopping power though and it'd look nice lol. Prior to my swap my brakes were dismal, and I'm thinking my vac booster was just shot and I didn't know it.
 
mattimooseprime said:
I don't really think it'd be needed, especially after driving for a long time after my swap with the hydroboost. I've put 1000lbs in the rear and it didn't make a difference, stopped great. I'd like to do an upgrade anyhow just to have the extra stopping power though and it'd look nice lol. Prior to my swap my brakes were dismal, and I'm thinking my vac booster was just shot and I didn't know it.
Click to expand...
Rollinns said:
Someday I'd like to add more capacity, would a brake upgrade really be needed?

How much does gasoline weigh?
6.2-6.4 pounds per US gallon
7.2 pounds per Imperial gallon

for the small rear tank (24 gallons):
24 gallons x 6.4 = 153.6 pounds (US gallons)
24 gallons x 7.2 = 172.8 pounds (Imperial gallons)

for the large rear tank (42 gallons):
42 gallons x 6.4 = 268.8 pounds (US gallons)
42 gallons x 7.2 = 302.4 pounds (Imperial gallons)

For the larger size tank that replaces the stock tank, the stock tank is I think a little over 24 gallons, the large belly tank is 37 gallons, so it has a 13 gallon increase in capacity
The weight increase with gasoline is
13 gallons x 6.4 = 83.2 pounds (US gallons)
13 gallons x 7.2 = 93.6 pounds (Imperial gallons)

For Diesel
How much does Diesel weigh?
6.8-8 pounds per US gallon (most places seem to use 7.1 pounds)
8.2-9.6 pounds per Imperial gallon (most places seem to use 8.9 pounds)

for the small rear tank (24 gallons):
24 gallons x 7.1 = 170.4 pounds (US gallons)
24 gallons x 8.9 = 213.6 pounds (Imperial gallons)

for the large rear tank (42 gallons):
42 gallons x 7.1 = 298.2 pounds (US gallons)
42 gallons x 8.9 = 373.8 pounds (Imperial gallons)

For the larger size tank that replaces the stock tank, again a 13 gallon increase in capacity
The weight increase with gasoline is
13 gallons x 7.1 = 92.3 pounds (US gallons)
13 gallons x 8.9 = 115.7 pounds (Imperial gallons)

Even with the largest weight increase, the max addition is 375 pounds plus the weight of the tank, is a brake upgrade needed?
I think a lot of the overlanders add more weight than that (I could be wrong) and I don't see a lot of talk about upgrading their brakes.
I plan to swap a diesel in and add hydroboost, the hydroboost should be enough I think.

Looking back at the links, it appears only the small rear tank is capable of diesel though.
Does anyone know if the other tanks have an option that would allow them to carry diesel?
Click to expand...
Don´t worry about the weight. The unladen weight includes a full fuel tank, driver's weight (75 kilograms), on-board tools, spare wheel, first-aid kit and warning triangle. And unladen means 2300 kilograms. With GVW at 2905 kilograms the payload is 605 kilograms. The LC80 / LX450 is a 7 seater means each passenger can have approx. 100 kilograms. For calculation take out some passengers like leaving the two jump seats empty and replace them with 160l diesel/gas with equals 135/120 kilograms. It is less additional load than a passenger´s standard weight. We have chosen those vehicles because their body and frame structure offers much more payload than a common SUV.
As long as you don´t have 6 more heavy guys on board, a lot of aux gear e.g. bumpers, roof load with the auxiliary full tank you are still in the specified range. For officially certified load increases up to the double of the original payload no brake enhancement are required – approved by test trials.
 
Beast of Berlin said:
Don´t worry about the weight. The unladen weight includes a full fuel tank, driver's weight (75 kilograms), on-board tools, spare wheel, first-aid kit and warning triangle. And unladen means 2300 kilograms. With GVW at 2905 kilograms the payload is 605 kilograms. The LC80 / LX450 is a 7 seater means each passenger can have approx. 100 kilograms. For calculation take out some passengers like leaving the two jump seats empty and replace them with 160l diesel/gas with equals 135/120 kilograms. It is less additional load than a passenger´s standard weight. We have chosen those vehicles because their body and frame structure offers much more payload than a common SUV.
As long as you don´t have 6 more heavy guys on board, a lot of aux gear e.g. bumpers, roof load with the auxiliary full tank you are still in the specified range. For officially certified load increases up to the double of the original payload no brake enhancement are required – approved by test trials.
Click to expand...

After doing Hydroboost I agree. Prior to doing it, my brakes were dismal and I practically had to stand on them to stop. i towed 3000lbs (which is nothing!) when it was stock and I hated it. But like I said, I think my booster was shot. Now, after the swap and everything else, I have no concerns with weight and brakes. my rig weighs almost 7000lbs empty and it feels fantastic.
 
Great thread guys. @Outsane @80t0ylc any longer term feedback on pump location? Kicking around optimal spot...probably doesn't matter assuming it's not excessively far away from the tank and also correctly placed vertically (latest instructions state 12" from bottom of tank to pump). We were going to catch one of the captive nuts on the floor like originally posted in this thread, but considering dropping down a bit based on the feedback here.

And any suggestions on pulling 12v power? Cig lighter? I'd like to be able to run it when the key is out/truck is parked.

Excited for the extra range. And to install that clean Solvefunction knockout for the LRA gauge...so clean! Appreciate the guidance on the wire routing as well - aiming to follow that.

Thanks guys!
 
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