LRA 40g Main Tank '05+ Install

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Thanks for the tips. I'd be interested in seeing what the CEL is for. I think the EVAP check takes place after the vehicle has been filled up and then parked for a number of hours or longer. So possibly the greater volume is throwing off the measurement. Might be easy to spoof.

The delayed shipping messed up my plan but hopefully I'll get it installed later this month or next.
 
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I too would be curious about which codes it’s throwing.


I assume the answer is “not possible,” but I wonder about the potential of retrofitting EVAP system from earlier 100s that have the charcoal canister under hood, are compatible with these LRA tanks, etc.

Or deleting it… or potentially overriding/bypassing some of these seemingly irrelevant checks it performs.

My other vehicle is an old e39 BMW and there’s tons of stuff people on the forums have managed to work around with simple diy bypass harnesses or coding tweaks to various modules in the cars. Including SAIP type malfunctions which I consider in the same ballpark as this EVAP business (there by mandate and causes more headache and reliability issues than anything.)

Just some thoughts, not sure if anyone has input.
 
Thanks for the tips. I'd be interested in seeing what the CEL is for. I think the EVAP check takes place after the vehicle has been filled up and then parked for a number of hours or longer. So possibly the greater volume is throwing off the measurement. Might be easy to spoof.

The delayed shipping messed up my plan but hopefully I'll get it installed later this month or next.

I finally broke down and ordered a BT code reader. It's likely the same small evap leak as it was before. I don't think it's volume related as the idiot lights have been triggered when the tank was at least 3/4" full, so the air volume was relatively low. The lights haven't triggered while driving, the 3 times they've come on was after sitting overnight.

I too would be curious about which codes it’s throwing.


I assume the answer is “not possible,” but I wonder about the potential of retrofitting EVAP system from earlier 100s that have the charcoal canister under hood, are compatible with these LRA tanks, etc.

Or deleting it… or potentially overriding/bypassing some of these seemingly irrelevant checks it performs.

My other vehicle is an old e39 BMW and there’s tons of stuff people on the forums have managed to work around with simple diy bypass harnesses or coding tweaks to various modules in the cars. Including SAIP type malfunctions which I consider in the same ballpark as this EVAP business (there by mandate and causes more headache and reliability issues than anything.)

Just some thoughts, not sure if anyone has input.

I've heard this sort of thing is very common in the BMW world, not so much over here.
 
@GTV Check this out for P0456. LRA on a 200 but the canisters are similar it looks like. Do we have a similar breather setup?
Side note: My 06 fuel tank is damaged enough from wheeling so I am looking at options myself for a replacement.

 
Just bumping this to see how the LRA tank is running. Did you figure out the evap code fix? @J1000 did you install your tank yet?
 
I haven’t figured it out, haven’t tried either.
I put over 10k miles on it in 4 1/2 months last summer so I’m confident that it works.
 
Wonder if the charcoal canister got doused with fuel or something like that? I had seen some other threads in the past where this had happened in hot weather at high elevation.
 
Wonder if the charcoal canister got doused with fuel or something like that? I had seen some other threads in the past where this had happened in hot weather at high elevation.

I have no doubt that mine got flooded in ver 1.0. Hopefully that’s all it is, clearing the codes every 500–1000 miles is annoying. Still worth it though.
 
Finally got around to installing my tank. I looked at all the mods that @GTV tried with swapping over the ports and the full vent system. I decided that was too much. I did drill and add an extra port with a quick connect fitting. That new fitting t's into the pre-05 rollover valve and then goes to the fill vent. I figure this will give a bit more venting. The other port with the brass fitting goes to the evap canister like normal. I curved all hoses forward 8-10 inches or so and then made the return loop as high as possible to try and reduce the amount of fuel that sloshes back and into the tubes.

I also installed a new DW 300 fuel pump.

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@J1000 this is awesome, thank you for following up with the update. I agree with jtb, this is certainly more DIY friendly that what GTV had to do. Please let us know if you have issues with fuel burping/boiling or EVAP codes.
 
Good thinking, I hope it works out for you! A simpler solution would be nice. I assume you've added heat shield to it? I'm finally doing that to mine this weekend after boiling fuel 2-3 times. I also need to take care of a small leak at the fill hose.

Other than the fuel boiling issue my tank has performed perfectly. The extra range is freedom.

I do have codes. I think they are triggered when the fuel gets hot and starts evaporating at a rate the charcoal canister can't handle. Or... the fact that version 1.0 was far too simple and I dowsed the charcoal canister in fuel, killing it.
 
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I haven't driven it much since I installed the tank and kept the fuel level low because I had a feeling something would happen. Well turns out I was right, I pinched the return fuel line when installing the tank causing 60 psi fuel pressure with no way to reduce it! I dropped the tank down slightly and rerouted the lines. That solved plus no leaks or any other issues I decided let's go for it and filled it up til the pump clicked off. 39 gallons!

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I finally installed some of the heat shield @J1000 recommended- as well as I could with the tank in place. Really wish I would have done that before install.

I also got a look at my filler leak.
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40 gallons for $68 dollars, what kind of dark magic is this?
 
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