LRA 40g Main Tank '05+ Install

[J1000]

Well my evap canister filled up with gas too. I ran a 1/2 hose from the breather up to the top of the fill neck and then back down to the evap canister like was mentioned earlier. When the tank is filled all the way up the fill level of the tank is higher than the vent ports on the back, which is dumb. I'm just going to avoid topping it off unless I am hitting the road immediately after.

 

[GTV]

When the tank is filled all the way up the fill level of the tank is higher than the vent ports on the back, which is dumb.

It's really no different than stock though?

Does flooding the CC spell certain death for it?

Whack the whole top off your OEM tank and graft it on to the LRA I really like how the OEM tank angles the filler towards the right side and then swings back left. Simple way to keep fuel from sloshing back out the filler, nice when ascending steep switchbacks.

 

[J1000]

It's really no different than stock though?


Does flooding the CC spell certain death for it?

Whack the whole top off your OEM tank and graft it on to the LRA I really like how the OEM tank angles the filler towards the right side and then swings back left. Simple way to keep fuel from sloshing back out the filler, nice when ascending steep switchbacks.

I guess you're right, it's similar to stock. One big difference is the big vent I'm using for the EVAP canister has that whole interior hose and breather that sits at the very top of the tank that you cut out and welded into the LRA tank. I just have an open port so the fuel can just go right in.

My CC is old and already on it's way out. I have a new in box CC to put in but I was going to wait because I figured something like this might happen. I'm going to drive the truck for a few tanks and see how the EVAP hoses look, if they are still full of gas then I'll think of something else.

 

[GTV]

Let’s talk filler hose.

As mentioned earlier, the factory fuel inlet on the tank is at a ≈45° angle, pointing towards the right rear tire. The LRA inlet points straight back. In order to use the OEM filler hose you have to reclock it slightly. This puts a different bend in the bellows than it’s had for the last ≈20 years. And just like original CV boots after a lift, it begins to split. My advice would be to replace the hose when installing the tank.

I had no trouble at all when I installed the original hose on the LRA tank as it was old and very limber. I could not get the new OEM hose to fit without kinking. I try to do OEM whenever possible but I broke down and ordered the generic hose @J1000 recommended. Paid for fast shipping. It was delayed a day. Then another day. I’m leaving for Moab Saturday. Needed a solution.

I ended up putting the bellowed end of the hose in boiling water for a few minutes in hope that the heat would allow the bellows to easily compress and that worked a treat. Ideally, maybe there’s another filler hose from a different Toyota that is a little shorter?

Generic hose landed right after I finished the job.

 

[GTV]

Just got back from Cruise Moab. To recap, over the last couple months I’ve added heat shielding to the tank, replaced the filler hose and replaced the fuel cap. I finally cleared the old evap codes when I got to Moab, that was 1,000 miles ago and I haven’t seen the three wise men on the dash since
To give the LRA a proper test I filled up before hitting Hell’s Revenge. Didn’t drip a drop, didn’t smell of fuel, acted 100% like a factory tank. I didn’t fill up again until Albuquerque.
My best tank was Albuquerque —> Gateway, Co. 15.2mpg, theoretical 608 mile range. 11.9 (times two) was my worst and those included a lot of 4 low. ≈400 miles to a tank is about the worst I can do.