I made use of this light quite a bit when gas was $4 a gallon.![]()
$4 per gallon. That is equivelant to $1/litre I would be over the moon with fuel that price. I am lucky to pay less than $1.40/Litre ($5 per gallon)
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I made use of this light quite a bit when gas was $4 a gallon.![]()
Filled up this morning thinking about the fuel light. Took 21 Gal (at $2.65 so about $0.70/Litre) but no fuel light on. Time to pack a gas can and drive until it runs out!$4 per gallon. That is equivelant to $1/litre I would be over the moon with fuel that price. I am lucky to pay less than $1.40/Litre ($5 per gallon)
Filled up this morning thinking about the fuel light. Took 21 Gal (at $2.65 so about $0.70/Litre) but no fuel light on. Time to pack a gas can and drive until it runs out!

I usually fill when my gauge gets between 1/2 and 1/4 tank. My light finally came on when I was trying to empty my tank. The gauge was a bit below the "E" line. The cruiser took 21 gallons. Prior to the "DYK" thread, I assumed I had a 19 - 20 gallon tank, and had no idea there was a low fuel light.What if the needle is pegging below the empty mark and still no light ?
The light works but I don't know if I should follow the gauge or wait for the light
Most, if not all, electrical fuel pumps are cooled by fuel.
... There is a way to modify when the light comes on. Not sure it is worth the work...
Why would you want to modify something that works as well as the red fuel light? So it comes on at 3 gals? 1 gal? Whats the point? Red light = 5 gals = 5*12=60 miles before you're dead at the side of the road.
So no ideas how to test circuit without taking the cluster out? Or to test the light sender? Gauge was below E today and it took 21.5 gals so I know the light circuit is broken.