Looks Like Body ECU time (rear wiper) (1 Viewer)

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Bringing this thread back. I'm having the same issue with the rear wiper not shutting off. Grrrrrrrrrr
 
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I disconnected mine when it stuck "on" a few months ago. Keep the tips coming. Maybe one day we will find a fix.
 
I took the lift gate panel off and unplugged the motor. I've even thought about a dedicated switch to control the wiper, but haven't had time to mess with it.
 
The fix is the 'Controller & Junction Instrument' module mounted above the radio. I tried everything, then finally found a used one (kept fingers crossed it wasn't bad too and double crossed fingers because it wasn't the correct number), plugged it in and wiper functioned properly.

Wifes 2001 does NOT have power tilt and telescopic steering wheel. The module in it was a 82791-60041. I replaced it with a 82791-60040. I have not found anything yet that does not function as it should. My research shows this as the difference between modules. Maybe you can go one way but not the other on the interchange.

The module is clipped above the radio, push two clips and it released. Three plugs. Took 5 minutes to change out. I opened the old one, all the capacitors look normal, no bloating or leakage. Thinking maybe could be a cold solder issue.

Pictures here;

Shaw Photo Share
 
Thank you Yardpig! I'll give this a shot and see what happens.

Edit-Looks like this part new is $311.02 at ToyotaPartsBarn.
 
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Read the rear wiper posts and looks like I should try the body ECU first. Wiper runs nonstop, but the crazy thing is, it stops when I step on the breaks???
I have these type of gremlins with my 2005, when the battery is low. Rear wiper stays on, locks won't unlock centrally, and steering wheel won't go up or down. Weird, but after I put it on a trickle charger everything works until the battery is low again. New battery's/alternator time I guess.
 
The fix is the 'Controller & Junction Instrument' module mounted above the radio. I tried everything, then finally found a used one (kept fingers crossed it wasn't bad too and double crossed fingers because it wasn't the correct number), plugged it in and wiper functioned properly.

Wifes 2001 does NOT have power tilt and telescopic steering wheel. The module in it was a 82791-60041. I replaced it with a 82791-60040. I have not found anything yet that does not function as it should. My research shows this as the difference between modules. Maybe you can go one way but not the other on the interchange.

The module is clipped above the radio, push two clips and it released. Three plugs. Took 5 minutes to change out. I opened the old one, all the capacitors look normal, no bloating or leakage. Thinking maybe could be a cold solder issue.

Pictures here;

Shaw Photo Share

I just replaced mine with a used one from a 99 (my LC is a 2000). The part number for the unit I removed was 82791-60041 and I replaced it with part number 82791-60040. That fixed my rear wiper issue and everything else works just fine (so far anyway). I hope this helps.
 
Thanks @Xetabur my used one has now failed so I will be going new this time! Electronics only last so long so I think this one is best as a new item unless you like rolling the dice on used and paying twice or more in the long run...
 
Full disclosure: I’m very much new to this forum, and dredging up an old thread. I’ve been going through this same issue (rear wiper on when ignition turns on) and body ECU was the fix for me too. Sharing my experience as I was very much convinced this wasn’t my issue at points.

I don’t mean to waste anyone’s time here, but thought I’d mention in case it’s useful for others as I’ve read through every rear wiper post I could find, many twice, trying to nail down the culprit. I’ve bought many an unnecessary part for these types of repairs on older vehicles, and wanted to avoid that this time. What stumped me here is some red herrings from other posts, such as the wiper stopping when service brakes were applied (mine kept going) or issues with grounding out wires, common grounds, etc. I did have evidence of moisture in the foam wrap on the lower DS corner of the upper hatch (maybe 3rd brake light) though this apparently wasn’t the cause. Another that threw me was others mentioned separate issues indicating body ECU, such as slower/finicky central locking, which I again didn’t have. I also checked the relay that’s close to the rear wiper motor in the rear hatch (once tested it was confirmed to function). As the name implies, my ‘01 has been very much neglected, and has a ton of past due maintenance and “good enough” fixes. I was also fearful someone had nicked a wire somewhere, as almost every body panel I open up has evidence someone’s been in there before me. But once I exhausted all of these alternative causes, I gave up and bought a used body ECU. Mine too was 60041 and I found this model on eBay, so I can’t speak to fit with other models. But I am happy to say I’m back to having a fully functional rear wiper, and just wish I’d listened to the advice hear earlier! Thanks for all the great advice I’ve already gained through lurking and now as a member on this fantastic site!
 
I am now repairing these modules because of the high failure rates and being now discontinued from Toyota.
 
I have the exact same issue with the rear wiper in my 2001 HDJ100, always on if instrument ECU is connected. Bypassing it makes the wiper act normal, intermittent function missing of course.

I also have a non-working remote central locking, otherwise everything in central locking works perfect.

First I thought just to leave the wiper bypass the ECU, but as I have learned that the remote central locking issue might also be related to this ECU, replacing it is more interesting.

You guys have replaced 82791-60040 with 82791-60041 and vice versa with success. I have 82791-60021, and there doesn't seem to be many for sale at the moment.

Could the logic in the part number be such that the last number is a minor difference/improvement, and second to last means there is different features included? Just wondering if it makes any sense to buy something that is not an exact match.

I also asked a local electronic repair shop if they could have a look, but they weren't very confident in solving the issue as they were not specialized to vehicle ECU's.

Thanks, all help is much appreciated!
 

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