Looking for good Trailer for the family

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raincityrider

Go'n Fast and Take'n Chances Since the 70's
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Apr 15, 2019
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22
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439
Location
Seattle, WA
I found this trailer on CL near me. He is asking $5K Anyone have thoughts?

CUSTOM: RUBICON RED, BRAKES, LIGHTS, LARGE COOLER MOUNT ON TONGUE, WATER JUG MOUNT, GAS CAN MOUNT, EXTINGISHER MOUNT, RHINO LINING, PNEUMATIC LIFTER ON LID, TAILGATE, TORSION BAR SUSPENSION, MOMBASSA ROOF TENT WITH LADDER, LOCK N ROLL OFFROAD HITCHING SYSTEM, OEM JEEP WHEELS AND 31" TIRES.
1962546

1962549

1962550
 
The Heep wheels are a negative....... LOL
Does it have its own spare? It should even if the wheel bolt pattern matches your tow rig, but especially if it doesn't.

What is the axle's weight rating? If seemingly appropriate for a trailer that size, i.e. roughly less than 3500 lbs, then I'd walk away. Don't need the weight rating itself, but you do need the larger wheel bearings that come with the heavier weight rating.

I'd want to know how well the lid and the tailgate seal. Are they lockable when closed?

Is the Mombassa RTT any good? I've no idea about any of those except the Maggoilinas. Assuming its roughly a $1200 retail RTT, that makes the trailer a $3800 trailer. Can you buy a new equivalent or better for that in your area?

Who takes a fire extinguisher off a vehicle?

Who built the actual trailer itself? It has the same tongue deficiency of design that most of these little home built and small mfg trailers suffer from. Fortunately it rarely causes a problem with them. Were this a bigger trailer I'd say "Walk Away."

Does it have shocks? For rough road & trails service it should. For mostly pavement service, maybe and maybe not.

What does the wiring look like? Did they use wire nuts for the junctions and cheep RV trailer lights, or did they do a proper job of the wiring and use OTR truck type sealed tail lights?

Is the coupler set-up to be removable? Lock-n-Rolls had taken a hit in the semi-recent past in that there had been some reported issues with both product and Customer Service. The company that makes them does so as a sideline. They are not a profit center for them and seem to be treated as the red headed step-child of the company.
There is at least one other such coupler on the market now, and there's always a pintle & lunette. If sized correctly the latter is my own choice.

Oh, and do you like red? IME it fades badly. I'd be looking at a re-paint to some color that doesn't show dust and dirt.
 
I'd be more in the 3k range...that gives you some room for any repairs.
 
Is $5000 a fair deal for an m416 with this set up?
The trailer:
- M-416
- extended heavy duty tongue
- Rebuilt frame
- lined inside the tub
- repainted (minus the fenders)
- hitch on the rear for a bike rack or whatever else
- Tires at 80% tread
- Wired for a 4-flat connector
- Tongue box contains battery and light switches
- Comes with spare/some original parts
- Clean title

The RTT setup:
- CVT Mt. Shasta Extended
- Great shape, no tears or rips
- Comes with annex
- Mounted on actuators, so you can raise the tent to >6ft off the ground
- Additional foam mattress included
- Lights on all four posts + red and white lights mounted under tent
 
They butt-weld the tongue to the front of the main part of the frame. Even if the center tube of the tongue is continuous clear to the rear of the frame this is a problem because the region around the front cross-member is high in bending stress. Correct design places the tongue under the main frame. This increases the Sectional Modulus of the frame right where it is needed the most. Look at how the tongues are built under any of the military trailers or the flat-bed trailers by most of the commercial trailer builders like Big Tex and Carson. That is how it should be done, it is not done that way for ease of building or economics or any other reason.

Most of these small trailers can get away with the design deficiency because they don't get heavily loaded. Fill the box full of gravel and it'll be a different story.

I think that when the tongue diagonals are set such that they weld to the front linkage or spring mount that this is the best design, but it isn't always feasible to do that.
 
I wouldn't give them that much for it, but I don't know what your market is like.
 
They butt-weld the tongue to the front of the main part of the frame. Even if the center tube of the tongue is continuous clear to the rear of the frame this is a problem because the region around the front cross-member is high in bending stress. Correct design places the tongue under the main frame. This increases the Sectional Modulus of the frame right where it is needed the most. Look at how the tongues are built under any of the military trailers or the flat-bed trailers by most of the commercial trailer builders like Big Tex and Carson. That is how it should be done, it is not done that way for ease of building or economics or any other reason.

Most of these small trailers can get away with the design deficiency because they don't get heavily loaded. Fill the box full of gravel and it'll be a different story.

I think that when the tongue diagonals are set such that they weld to the front linkage or spring mount that this is the best design, but it isn't always feasible to do that.

It get me excited when you start throwing around "Sectional Modulus "

To OP....

again...not seeing 5K on this one either.
 
It get me excited when you start throwing around "Sectional Modulus "

To OP....

again...not seeing 5K on this one either.
Yeah, People are sure $$ proud $$ of their trailers. Seems like finding one far away or building one out is the best bet.
 
Garage sale Dinoot trailer:
 
Nice anyone have experience with these?
 
Yeah, People are sure $$ proud $$ of their trailers. Seems like finding one far away or building one out is the best bet.


If you have some skills and resources...there's lots of folks willing to help you along the journey. The biggest obstacle can be the "base" trailer...as far as tacking stuff on, it just depends what your needs are and your budget can bare.
 
Nice anyone have experience with these?
He's been building them for a while, might look to see if users have posted on Expi. I think his user name over there is "compactcamping" or something like that. Started out making a tent that could convert a 1/4 ton mil sized trailer into something very similar to the VenturCraft TrailBlazer. Unfortunately it looks like those tents are out of production.

It does suffer from the same tongue design flaw as the trailer above, but if not going to be loaded full of gravel or similarly dense material it may not matter.
 
Has anyone heard of Dog House Trailers? They are Canadian and look pretty reasonable for what you get. Trailer, tent, and annex $4255.33 USD w/o Tax
 
I have a Coleman though. And it isn't $10-40K.....
 
But what is the PITA factor in using and transporting it? A pull-out like that should have at least 2 burners and maybe 3, otherwise it is an inefficient use of the space.
 
But what is the PITA factor in using and transporting it? A pull-out like that should have at least 2 burners and maybe 3, otherwise it is an inefficient use of the space.
I agree at least 2 burrners would be nice. But it is small light and fairly inexpensive. I cant find an CANM101 anywhere near me. This ones I find a a few grand and would take a lot of work to get set up.

It is my first trailer and an inexpensive'ish way to get a trailer that looks pretty plug and play. Except for the hitch.
 

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