I see the Auzzy guys install those Land Cruiser Torque Converter lockup kits frequently.
Is anyone state size running them?
Example:
Long term wear from towing. Real world data on what to expect.
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I see the Auzzy guys install those Land Cruiser Torque Converter lockup kits frequently.
Is anyone state size running them?
Example:
Yeah, I’ve seen those too. If I ever have a valve body that needs replacement I might consider it, but it seems to be manageable using the manual mode. Also I’d want to drive one to see how livable it is on a daily driver. Afraid it might be great in theory but annoyingly harsh to live with.
My overland trailer is about that weight, and I can't even tell if it's back there. It's used 5k+ a year easy.
Just follow the "b" schedule .. that is not heavy towing.
As I have shared elsewhere I also tow a Lance trailer. 6K. Brought it over the high passes of the Colorado Rockies and later out to Bend. I do like @coleAK does. Follow the manual. No issues at all. And as others have stated I use engine compression (via S-mode) to manage speed going downhill while minimizing the use of trailer or LC brakes.
and, yes, @Bendcruiser, we need to get together. Got so busy setting up the house and settling in to the Bend community I completely spaced it! I’ll PM you.
@OregonLC, good to hear of your experience over the passes here. We hope to take our trailer over to the coast this Summer. Trying to figure out the best route.
and, yes, @Bendcruiser, we need to get together. Got so busy setting up the house and settling in to the Bend community I completely spaced it! I’ll PM you.
@OregonLC, good to hear of your experience over the passes here. We hope to take our trailer over to the coast this Summer. Trying to figure out the best route.
I should also add that because our trailer is over 5500# when loaded and has a tongue weight 900# (which exceeds the Toyota spec) I of course use a WD and sway “elimination” hitch. BTW, that hitch also contributes 200# to the hitch weight so it better carry its weight! Using the WD I am able to get all 4 corners of the LC to less than an inch from where they are without the trailer and nearly the same (at 21” from hub to fender).
Where on the coast and what do you like to do? Family has had a house in Waldport for years. Best weather is in the fall, often late fall when high pressure builds up over the center of the state and blows west. The winds heat as the come down the coast range (katabatic) and you can have some really warm relatively calm days. In the summer, heat lows develop over the valley and cold onshore flow dominates.
Thanks! If we bring the trailer we would consider Beverly Beach State Park. We are also thinking of going in a few week but not with the trailer. I do photography as a hobby and I’m hoping to get some shots near Seal Rock when the tide is out around sunset. Of course weather is iffy this time of year.
I didn't think it was necessary on 3UR cruisers. It most likely doesn't allow lockup in gears you wouldn't need it in anyway.
The Hatfield Aquarium in Newport is also worthy to checkout and you can stop into Rogue Brewery. If the latter, the pub on the north side of the bay is better than the actual brewery at the base of the bridge on the south. You might also consider taking 101 south and hit Yachats and Florence, returning through Eugene and Hwy 58 to La Pine.
I personally don’t enjoy the bigger towns north of Newport (Lincoln, Cannon, Seaside). Too Portlandia for me.
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I believe this only works on the diesel.
For towing, just run in 4th gear on the 2008-2015, or 6th on the 2016+. 4th is 1:1 and you'll get the best performance and contrl or the truck with the least heat. When towing, 5th or 6th gear won't improve mileage much if at all in my experience.
terrapin
SILVER Star
I'm new to towing with my LX so please enlighten me on the proper way to use the manual shifting ("S" mode) while towing a 6000 lb travel trailer. I have a 2010 LX570 and have read in the manual to use 4th gear.
Do you use "D" until you get up to speed and then shift into 4, or do you start out in 4 and let the vehicle shift for you, or do you start in 1 and manually row through the gears until you reach 4?
Do you use "D" until you get up to speed and then shift into 4, or do you start out in 4 and let the vehicle shift for you, or do you start in 1 and manually row through the gears until you reach 4?
Welcome to the 200-series towing world.
It's reasonably straightforward. Shift straight to "S" mode instead of D. It will default to S4 which is perfect and nothing more to be done. S4 tells the transmission to use any lower gear it wants up to 4th gear. With a slightly more sporty shift map.
Turning on the "Power ETC" (aka tow/haul mode) button is also a good practice when towing to get a more aggressive throttle and shift map. This helps to not have to depress the gas pedal as much and get more power on tip in.
Another good practice is down shifting on grades. Use the s-mode gate to select lower gears (i.e. s3, s2). Don't be afraid to let her rev as that is preferred. Helps the engine run cooler with more fluid circulation when climbing grades. More engine braking when going down grades.
Good luck and don't worry about durability. That's why we own 200-series cruisers.
It's reasonably straightforward. Shift straight to "S" mode instead of D. It will default to S4 which is perfect and nothing more to be done. S4 tells the transmission to use any lower gear it wants up to 4th gear. With a slightly more sporty shift map.
Turning on the "Power ETC" (aka tow/haul mode) button is also a good practice when towing to get a more aggressive throttle and shift map. This helps to not have to depress the gas pedal as much and get more power on tip in.
Another good practice is down shifting on grades. Use the s-mode gate to select lower gears (i.e. s3, s2). Don't be afraid to let her rev as that is preferred. Helps the engine run cooler with more fluid circulation when climbing grades. More engine braking when going down grades.
Good luck and don't worry about durability. That's why we own 200-series cruisers.
Took the words right outta my ... keyboard. The trick is remembering it’s back there.
Your goal is to keep heat from building up in the transmission. You do this by manually selecting the highest gear the transmission can hold while keeping the torque converter locked and without 'hunting' (the continuous down/up shifting). When the torque converter is unlocked the mechanical connection becomes a hydraulic coupling and heat begins to build. If you want to see this, you can buy an OBDII bluetooth dongle and get a mobile device app such as Torque or Dash Command.
I start out with 5 and then go down to 4 (or even 3) if it can't hold five. If conditions warrant I may go to 6, but only if I'm certain it can hold that gear (i.e. lower speeds, tail wind, down hill).
No need to manually row through the gears. Let it shift by itself up to the highest gear you're allowing.
I've watched my AT pan and torque converter temps in all gears and 4th almost always generates the least heat. The exception is occasionally when on very long gradual downhill descents particularly at higher elevations I've found running in 3rd will actually be a bit cooler than 4th - presumably because of the speed fluid is circulating.
Well, I'll throw this in for discussion purposes: Why does gas mileage go down when towing in 4th versus 6th? (I assume 8th too)
Comments above regarding TC lockup, towing in 3rd or 4th, ETC, etc. all prove correct based on my significant towing experience. I always wondered, however, why my gas mileage plummets in 4th vs 6th given same speed, same terrain, yet a cooler engine and transmission, less hunting, and an overall apparently happier engine? I have spent many miles contemplating the answer... I haven't invested the time necessary to figure out the various throttle-related readings on my OBD2 and it is probably therein that the answer can be found. Thoughts?
Comments above regarding TC lockup, towing in 3rd or 4th, ETC, etc. all prove correct based on my significant towing experience. I always wondered, however, why my gas mileage plummets in 4th vs 6th given same speed, same terrain, yet a cooler engine and transmission, less hunting, and an overall apparently happier engine? I have spent many miles contemplating the answer... I haven't invested the time necessary to figure out the various throttle-related readings on my OBD2 and it is probably therein that the answer can be found. Thoughts?
The short answer is gearing. 5th and 6th are overdrive gears, so they get better mileage on the highway when cruising than lower gears. Particularly if you’re on flat land and not trying to push your setup to go as fast as possible the efficiency benefits of the shorter gears can outweigh the aerodynamics you’re fighting
That said while I’m sure it depends on trailer weight and aerodynamics but I’ve found my mileage between 4th and 5th or 6th to be negligible when towing. The thing is if there’s a 10% benefit to 6th over 4th it means 1.8mpg when unladen but less than half that when loaded and towing. Now subtract the wind resistance you need to overcome and if there’s 0.5mpg difference most of my the I’d be surprised. I personally opt for lower heat and less wear over gas mileage and use 4th, even though the manual says you can use 5th. Then again I solidly do 70+ on the highway so wind resistance is my bigger enemy than the gear.
RPM in 6th or 4th is higher than 8th or 6th for equivalent 70mph. More RPM equals more gas sent to engine. It takes 2 revolutions for ALL cylinders to fire once. All four stroke engines need 2 revolutions to complete one operating cycle. Assuming fuel per cylinder is a constant for firing. Then as revolutions increase fuel consumption increases.
Agreed. Adding to this is the apparent engine load between the two gears/load points.
With the same load:
1) Lugging a higher gear at lower RPM puts the engine into a high load region, generally necessitating more fuel enrichment due to the higher combustion pressures/heat.
2) Spinning a lower gear at higher RPM puts the engine into a relatively lower load region, where it can run a more stoichiometric air/fuel ratio (fancy word for more optimal fuel mixture without extra fuel to decrease heat)
There is a tipping point where even though it's more ignition events, it's running a more efficient fuel mixture that overall, it'll still consume less fuel. Generally with gassers and heavy loads, its preferred to use RPM. It's easier on the engine with lower combustion pressures, lower heat, more cooling circulation, and potentially less fuel usage.
This is also why small engines pulling heavy loads become terribly inefficient.