Lockers versus ATRAC

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Ahh, good to know.
 
Eric - Please fill me in as to why you would add the ARB to the front and not the back, if you were adding a single locker. I was under the impression (and this could be mistaken) that the back locker along with the ATRAC up front would be the best combination, not the other way around. Please explain.

Thanks,

Jonathan:popcorn:

I'd add an ARB to the front of any 100 series Land Cruiser prior to the rear if I was on a tight budget. ALL front diffs in the 100 series are weak. In the early models the pinion design allows for flex, in the later models it is my belief that the ATRAC can at times be so aggressive that it flexes the stock differential to the point that the ring gear and pinion seperate and slip breaking the differential. So if I could only afford one locker in a ATRAC rig I would buy a front differential to avoid the front differential from breaking as the ARB carrier is more rigid than the factory differential. So having an ARB in the front is even beneficial even when not using is in the locked configuration as you are increasing the strength and decreasing the amount of flex.

Really it has nothing to do with use on the trail. I'm not sure I've ever been in a situation where I've used just the front locking differential on the trail. I usually go rear first and then the front or if I know it is going to be difficult I go for both right away. I avoid using the front as much as I can because it makes steering difficult. I would rather not put undo stress on my steering and drivetrain.
 
seems like more people use their front locker then the rear if they have both. Plus it reinforces it and makes it able to withstand more abuse without blowing up, at least thats the theory. The front tires lift off the ground more, causing all the power to go to the spinning tire, locked up equal power goes to both front tires. The back stays much more planted in comparison, it's just got the travel to do so.

I'm strongly opposed to a locker in the front on a R&P IFS truck. I've seen too many blown racks due front lockers. A recirc ball setup is totally different. If you doubt my words, take a look at front end of a locked IFS on a high traction pull up. The tires will be pigeon toed / \ instead of | | straight.

PS, I had a front lockright in my last rig, so i hold a grudge:mad:.
 
You cannot compare a lockright to an ARB or other part time locker.

If it is a high traction situation why are they using the locker?
 
Well, I know that you cannot compare an auto lock to a selectable locker, but the busted racks were with ARBs not lockrights.

The reason that you need a locker engaged is that the terrain changes faster than you can lock and unlock a selectable locker. Take a look at this pic. Its quite difficult to bump up and over this obstacle without a front locker engaged. There a mud hole on the other side and invariably you're going to lift one or both rear tires. The front locker on an IFS will turn the tires pigeon toed about everytime.

4455190092_large.jpg


here's another obstacle that has high traction on top side and zero on the bump up. there's no way to deselect the locker. you can see that my tires were pulling in. My tierods were 1" hex bar. The arb locked rack and pinion guys go really pigeon toed here.

4455190083_large.jpg
 
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But those aren't 100 series racks either.
 
But those aren't 100 series racks either.

Regardless, rack and pinion steering is inheritly weak. :flipoff2:

Until recently, most serious IFS vehicles used recirc ball steering. A front locker will add stress that will, over time, damage the rack.

I'm not telling anyone to not add a front locker, but I am warning that hard use will result in steering damage at some point.

On the positive side, you can get a rack rebuilt for about $300 if you're willing to do the work. :beer::beer:
 
Does anyone know if there is an EASY way to disable ATRAC without locking the diffs or putting the pedal to the metal? By easy I mean being able to make a switch or something.

I think it would nice to be able to turn it (and even VSC) off, like the FJC, every once in a while to cut loose and have some fun going sideways and tires spinning.

Ideally:
Open Front, Center, and Rear Diffs
ATRAC off
VSC off
ABS.....who cares, as long as the brakes work
 
I searched and didnt find anything....so im guessing no
 
I'm fairly confident the information is here (see thread link below) to do this (disable VSC switch)... someone is going to have to find the time to do it. The OP to this thread has not made it a priority. Spending some time in the FJ forums yields lots of discussion about an ATRAC switch :)

I have been very impressed with ATRAC thus far.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/339485-vsc-caused-me-total-my-lc-100-a.html

I searched and didnt find anything....so im guessing no
 
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