Local Help

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Ah, and what happens if I break that bolt for the lower shock mount in my driveway?

I'm assuming the bolt is what you are referring to? Your new OME's come with new bolts my friend. I sheered one on mine on the swap out. Once you break it, it comes right out.
 
Really? What about where it's being held in by the nut?

I took a pic for reference this morning....

461460FE-4FB4-4876-BDB5-F1556793F976-1155-000001C8E6D9A3D6_zps771f0871.jpg


This is what I'm referring to from Slee's website.

Step 4:
Now remove the bottom shock mount bolts.

Be extremely careful with this bolt. If it does not come out easily, re-apply penetrating fluid or heat the mount with a gas torch. This bolt breaks very easily and is most often rusted. If this bolt breaks, you are in for a long day of drilling and tapping. Resist the temptation to turn up the air impact. This might just snap it off. Most often it is best to use a long extension pipe on a breaker bar and put gentle pressure on the bolt until it loosens up.

-rockstate
 
ahh.. I broke that one once.. cut it off, welded a bolt in it's place used the head against the axle and the threaded part to secure the nut on the other side. Or in some shock kits there are "Pins" that fit well.. can weld one of those on there.. Not a big deal.. Or weld a nut to the part that's left and let the heat from the welder break the threads loose.
 
ahh.. I broke that one once.. cut it off, welded a bolt in it's place used the head against the axle and the threaded part to secure the nut on the other side. Or in some shock kits there are "Pins" that fit well.. can weld one of those on there.. Not a big deal.. Or weld a nut to the part that's left and let the heat from the welder break the threads loose.

Ahhhhh that would be too much for me. Don't have the tools or knowledge for that one...
 
lots of PB, then I typically heat up any bolt that will not come out with moderate pressure. Heat it up with torch, the spray PB blaster to cool it down and it sucks in the pb. Then heat it up again and use my light dewalt impactdriver (not impact wrench) to zip them out.

If bolts start going out easy, then get harder, this typically means that there is rust or corrosion on the bolt past the nut. Just run them in and out several times to get them out. Kind of like using a tap.
 
lots of PB, then I typically heat up any bolt that will not come out with moderate pressure. Heat it up with torch, the spray PB blaster to cool it down and it sucks in the pb. Then heat it up again and use my light dewalt impactdriver (not impact wrench) to zip them out.

If bolts start going out easy, then get harder, this typically means that there is rust or corrosion on the bolt past the nut. Just run them in and out several times to get them out. Kind of like using a tap.

Thanks for the advice. Hopefully I won't be needing it tomorrow!

Here are some preliminary pictures

D31F0F08-EED1-4BB7-8583-55375B12CFB2-5248-0000058419D242C6_zpsb2f22c93.jpg


A2BC9113-FA1A-4018-BB6A-86748D8F5D81-5248-0000058410FDBBDF_zpsec24f411.jpg
 
Well guys, it's all done minus the caster bushings and the steering stabilizer.

Can someone recommend someone to install the caster bushings?

Also, I'm getting an audible sound coming from the front around 70mph that wasn't there before. It seems to have a hint of vibration at 30 for a second and then it's purely audible. Once the coils settle, do you think it'll go away?
 
Cc could. As could greasing ur driveshaft. Do u have spare caster bars?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using IH8MUD
 
Caster bars? Likely not.


I have 4 new caster bushings sent with the OME kit and a press; otherwise, it's just what's on the vehicle
 
Anyone hear an echo? I have the extra set of caster bars to do the CC.

yes, CC should help.

Takes about 2 hours to press and cut out the old and press in the new ones. I would tell you to wire wheel and clean up the old bars and rattle can some paint on them first, but that is your call.
 
Oh, you might want to press in a new bushing on the frame side. Order that from Toyota.
 
I like your style. Would you be willing to donate a Saturday afternoon to help me with that and the steering stabilizer? It needs to be done.

Ill send ya a pm
 
Get the bars from kelly. I can walk you thru getting the old bushings out and pressing in new ones with nothing more than a hand drill sawall and bench vice.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using IH8MUD
 
Goto harbor freight get pn 66686 and use that to pop stabilizer off. Use the one that looks like this. In this manner. The one I have is from otcspx. Imagine the tangs grabbing the od of the hole the stabilizer is inside

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using IH8MUD

ForumRunner_20130816_222046.webp


ForumRunner_20130816_222143.webp
 
Goto harbor freight get pn 66686 and use that to pop stabilizer off. Use the one that looks like this. In this manner. The one I have is from otcspx. Imagine the tangs grabbing the od of the hole the stabilizer is inside

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using IH8MUD

That's a money tool! I still have a pickle fork from Mike on loan but ill get in touch with him on that one for getting this stabilizer off. First thing is my caster correction. I'm pretty close to sending that one to Chux since I don't have a sawzall and don't know if I'm capable of doing the caster plates myself
 
Im not sure the monkeys at a place like that are mechanics. U have a jigsaw? A hand drill and a bench vice?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using IH8MUD
 
Im not sure the monkeys at a place like that are mechanics. U have a jigsaw? A hand drill and a bench vice?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using IH8MUD

Yeah, I used to work at a place like that and I entirely concur. I wouldn't take my personal truck there haha. Sadly...

Anyway, yeah I do have all of that stuff. No bench for the vice, but I have a vice haha.
 
So what is the plan now? You still getting the rear toyota bushing parts?
 
Back
Top Bottom