Load Range E Tires?

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mtnracer

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I'm just looking at the different available tires - don't worry, I'm not looking for a recommendation - and noticed that many of them are only available in Load Range E in the 285/75-16 and some other sizes. In addition, some of them are available in the D or E rating with E being more expensive.

My idea was to get a C or D rated tire. Will the E rating affect the ride too much on the LC or will it be fine? Usually I associate the E rating with trailer towing.
 
It will definitely be a firmer ride. Most E rated tires are 8 or 10 ply while D are 6 or less. You can adjust for most of that with lower air pressure but the on-road handling of a D rated tire is still better in my experience.
 
IIRC an "E" rating has more to do with the tires ability to handle the greater heat generated when hauling a heavy load than it does actually stiffness of the tires. Don't get me wrong, they are going to be stiffer, but I don't think the difference will be that great compared to a "D". Remember, the air inside is whats holding the weight....not the sidewalls.
 
I had the same question when I bought new tires. The normally knowledgeable person at the tire store I talked with was not absolutely sure it was ok to run E rated tires as low as 30 psi for extended highway use. I would ask a tire store or manufacturer about that for the particular tire you're looking at. To carry their rated load, an E tire usually runs around 80 psi. The Tire Rack has a brief explanation of ply rating at: Tire Tech Information - Load Range/Ply Rating Identification

I do know that one of the most common ways for trucks to get stuck on the sand/mud roads where I go is to use E rated tires at 80 psi ! They need only about 20 or less psi to float along.
 
Sandroad said:
The normally knowledgeable person at the tire store I talked with was not absolutely sure it was ok to run E rated tires as low as 30 psi for extended highway use.
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I'm pretty sure no tire should be run as low as 30 psi for extended highway use!
 
NMuzj100 said:
I'm pretty sure no tire should be run as low as 30 psi for extended highway use!
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In fact most if not all the actual tire manufacturers state any warranty is voided if the tires are run under inflated. That is their official position regardless of whether its on or off road.

FWIW: The Toyo Open Country AT tires in the size I run, 285R75 18" are E-rated. The newly installed Goodyear MT/R Kevlar in the same size is also an E-rated tire. But the GY is much more compliant at the same PSI!

I would offer based upon my experiences to date: Any E-rated tire is going to be harsher in sidewall compliancy than a D-rated, and certainly a C-rated, tire especially on a stock or near stock weight rig.
 
I just put 295 BFG ATs in an E. The tire tech asked me what I wanted them inflated to and I told him 35. He said the minimum he could said E rated tires out the door was with 45. It rides harsh with 45. Much better at 35.

And a lot of manufacturers do specify tire pressures less than 30 PSI. Our VW has 26/28 for the regular pressure and goes up based on load and speed. They even tell you what pressure to run them at over 100 mph. It just depends upon the application of the tire and which type of tire.
 
I know that E rated tires typically have a max PSI rating of 80 but does that mean you MUST run 80 PSI.

I thought that regardless of tire, you should be running the pressure recommended by the vehicle manufacturer.
 
mtnracer said:
I know that E rated tires typically have a max PSI rating of 80 but does that mean you MUST run 80 PSI.

I thought that regardless of tire, you should be running the pressure recommended by the vehicle manufacturer.
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The max rated pressure for any tire, regardless of rating, is for the stated load. However the tire manufacturers don't typically provide a minimum psi for a lighter load; somewhat ambiguous for sure!

FWIW: I run my 285R75 18" tires (both Toyo and GY MT/R Kevlar are E rated tires) at 45psi for most of my travels. That seems to work very well providing even wear across the tread face. However when I'm loaded down for a multi-day trip towing the KK I bump the rears to 50-55 psi and the fronts at 48psi. I've found, for my rig, these work well.

And then off-road, depending on the 'roughness' of the trail, I'll run anywhere between 28-38psi depending on terrain. Keep in mind these psi #'s are for the above size tires only.

Although I haven't done this another excellent method of determining proper inflation would be to drive through chalk so that the tire leaves an impression on the pavement. Adjust psi so that you have full tire print across the tread...
 
Six times a year I tow a 4K lb rally car and trailer (and load up with rally support gear), so I went with 6 ply load range "C" with the my new GY duratracs. They are fine for daily driving. However, If I was towing monthly or weekly I'd have gone w/ load range "E". With no towing I would have bought just straight 4 ply LT tires, probably, again, Nokian WR G2s.

WARNING: some pople who bought 4 ply GY LT Duratracs have complained how soft the sidwalls are, I think the "C"s are plenty stiff w/ 6 ply.
 
spressomon said:
Although I haven't done this another excellent method of determining proper inflation would be to drive through chalk so that the tire leaves an impression on the pavement. Adjust psi so that you have full tire print across the tread...
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The better way to do this is chalk the tire and see where it wears off first and adjust so you have an even wear off of the chalk.
 
What were the stock Mich LTX? Probably C. Whatever they were, they were horrible with a load on them. I remember plucking a thorn out of the sidewall once.

I currently run E rated BFG AT KO's they do great with 1k lbs cargo inside the truck.
 
mtnracer said:
I thought that regardless of tire, you should be running the pressure recommended by the vehicle manufacturer.
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The best way to determine proper PSI is using a load table for the tire specification and match psi to OEM tire load. (Note: you are trying to match the OEM tire load not actual axle load in order to maintain the original reserve.)

The weight split on the 100 in stock form is very even so pressures are the same all around.

If you don't need the extra carrying capacity then there are several disadvantages to a higher load rated tire.
- extra strength needed for high pressures means less deflection when aired down off road
- holds in more heat - thicker construction is like a thicker blanket and heat kills tires
- reduced tread depth for the same sized tire. In 285/75R16 a BFG T/A KO has 17/32" of tread depth D-rated and only 15/32" E-rated

For the 100 I doubt anyone is loading beyond the range of a D-rated tire. The BFG 285/75R16 D-Rated is rated at 3305lbs or 6610lb per axle.

Good info here at Barry's Tire Tech and he answers tire ?s at Barry Smith at All experts
 
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NMuzj100 said:
If you don't need the extra carrying capacity then there are several disadvantages to a higher load rated tire.
- extra strength needed for high pressures means less deflection when aired down off road
- holds in more heat - thicker construction is like a thicker blanket and heat kills tires
- reduced tread depth for the same sized tire. In 285/75R16 a BFG T/A KO has 17/32" of tread depth D-rated and only 15/32" E-rated

For the 100 I doubt anyone is loading beyond the range of a D-rated tire. The BFG 285/75R16 D-Rated is rated at 3305lbs or 6610lb per axle.


There are some advantages to running a tire with extra load carrying capacity. If you travel through a lot of shale or lava rock frequently the tire construction of a higher rated tire is stronger to support the extra weight and can save your tires if you frequent these areas.

There is a huge difference in tire construction between companies and even between models of an individual company's tires. Thicker rubber on the sidewalls is an "in" thing right now. If it killed so many tires I don't think the tire companies would risk it. I really don't think the thicker rubber is contributing enough heat to kill the tires in either the tread depth of sidewall. I think it is still a construction reason. The 285 MT is a load E and carries 3415 and is 19/32 to start with. So the rubber is quite a bit thicker than the AT. Granted it is vented more so it would cool better. But when you drop down to another MT with the 3415 weight rating you are looking a 20/32 tread depth but on an 18" wheel. So there is more to the weight rating than just tread depth. In this case they actually increased tread depth on the smaller sidewall tire.

I do think it is wise to do the research for yourself. The techs at the tire shops I visit don't seem to have any really science to back up the reason they do things. Many of them have never really received any formal training and just do what the other guy does without really questioning.

If the ride is acceptable and the tires are wearing evenly you are probably doing something right and I'd probably stick with that.

When people talk about tires they often speak subjectively and not objectively. I know I've made some tire comments in the past that have not been scientifically proven but were more based on the seat of the pants feeling.
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If I remember correctly, BFG recommends that their E-rated AT's not be used in heavy snow. They don't have this recommendation for the D-rated version. That being said, I'd expect that they assume you'll be running them at or above the minimum pressure.
 
Topmounter said:
If I remember correctly, BFG recommends that their E-rated AT's not be used in heavy snow. They don't have this recommendation for the D-rated version.
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Many of their E-load AT's have the severe snow rating symbol on them.
 
Thanks for all the great feedback. I am pretty sure I will go with a 33" D rated tire. That should meet my requirements of off-roading fun, occasional towing and highway driving.
 
My dad ran E tires on my cruiser befor he handed it down to me. He said he has no complaints with the ride. He had the BFG AT's
 
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