shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
So do all years of the LX have them? I have a 99 amd don't see any lights under there. Would be stoked to have them!
Lexus LX470 OEM Running Boards LED Lights
- Thread starter PK470
- Start date
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I think you best best is to look under and check for the wiring harness that goes to the running boards. Or there should be a tube spanning the running board visible just looking at the vehicle. If there is a pin stripe looking thing, that's it.
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
Yeah I did earlier before posting and just looked again. Don't see anything that looks like lights. They might have done that in 2000 when they added some stuff like wooden steering wheel, shifter, etc.
I also looked in the FSM and it says to remove the side steps just unbolt them and no mention of a wiring harness. Sad day for me as I was looking forward to buying the prewired LED lights to keep the fade out function. Oh well. First world problems!
Necro-post I guess, but my driver’s side running board lights are out. Ordered the 891 bulbs for end caps (from an earlier post) but it looks a lot different on my 2004 LX.
This is the front end. The tube light is behind the white + black plug at the center-bottom of the pic. Running board power is top right. I have not figured out how to unplug the white + black plug non-destructively yet. If anyone knows, would love the help!
The puddle lamps look to be separate. They use a 194 bulb and are easy to change.
Two screws and you are done for these.
This is the front end. The tube light is behind the white + black plug at the center-bottom of the pic. Running board power is top right. I have not figured out how to unplug the white + black plug non-destructively yet. If anyone knows, would love the help!
The puddle lamps look to be separate. They use a 194 bulb and are easy to change.
Two screws and you are done for these.
I just did this on mine. There is a lightbulb on either side of the fiber optic tube on the inside of the running boards. You don’t have to remove the running boards nothing crazy there’s little flaps in the wheel wells right there connecting to the step board you can turn the front wheel whichever way to give you more room, but you kind of been that cover open and then there is a tube that you slide left and that lightbulbs in there, however, the lightbulb that was in there, and the lightbulb that is recommended for that is not nearly bright enough. I had a hard time finding LEDs that would work they do have to be the “G4“ connection. I’m purchasing new ones I would suggest getting LEDs with as high lumen as possible and ones that are encased in a cone like housing.
They required G4 connection 12 V AND DC only
Unfortunately, the only ones they have at the auto stores are very expensive. They’re only halogen and they’re not even close to being bright enough.
I pulled my running boards and am getting rid of them. Anyone want to take them off my hands for the lights / wiring? Lights on both sides worked when removed.
santafe.craigslist.org
2004 Lexus LX470 running boards - free stuff - craigslist
Removed these running boards and no longer need them. The passenger side is in great shape; driver side has some damage but looks OK when mounted. Lights on both sides work. I’ve also seen people...
The lights aren’t great, but I just had to have the running board lights working again on my 2002 lx470. Just finished replacing all 4 bulbs (2 each side). Probably the lowest value/time spent “maintenance” on this rig.
I had to remove the running boards to get to the bulb housing that are on each end of the running boards. There’s a post showing how to replace the bulbs without removing the running boards but it is so much easier to remove the bulbs once the running boards are off. There’s very little real estate to twist off the cap that holds the bulb. It has fins to make it easier to twist, but after 20 years, my caps were all seized. I tried to do it without removing the running boards but given how limited the space is to contort my hands, I just couldn’t muster the grip strength to twist it. I did get one off but I couldn’t get it back on.
I used:
13mm (1/4 inch drive) - For the front right passenger side nut and bolt that holds the bracket. Fit is super tight. Couldn’t even turn the tiny ratchet even a quarter turn.
13mm short and long ( 3/8 inch drive) - for the nut and bolt on the passenger side two middle brackets and the lower bolt in the ps rear bracket. Depending on clearance, I had to change sockets.
12mm (3/8 inch drive) - Drive doesn’t matter but what I happened to pick out. Used to loosen the two nuts on each of the two middle brackets. I just loosened and didn’t remove.
13mm and 12mm monkey wrench - to have as backup
To remove the running board, unplug the connector. It’s towards the front of the running board. PITA to remove. Push down on the bump which moves the notch out of the way so you can pull the connector out. Careful to not break. Once disconnected, remove the plastic bracket holding the wire that’s coming from the underside of the truck. When you drop the running board, this will prevent it from hanging by that wire attached to the front bracket.
Remove all nuts and bolts holding the running board bracket to the body.
Front bracket - 2 bolts
Front middle bracket - 1 nut and 1 bolt
Rear middle bracket - 1 nut and 1 bolt
Rear bracket - 1 bolt (there’s two, but I only had to remove the lower bolt. I think the 12mm cadmium plated bolt acts as registration to make lining up the bolts easier.)
Loosen the two 12mm nuts on the bottom of the middle brackets - Horizontal part of the bracket facing the ground.
Front middle bracket - 2 nuts
Rear middle bracket - 2 nuts
The running boards at this point are held up by the two studs that the nut was on at each of the two middle brackets. Laying under the running boards looking up at the two middle brackets, wiggle the running boards towards the inner side of the truck and continue supporting the running boards while getting the brackets off the stud. If you don’t, the running boards will just crash down after the brackets are off the studs.
Once removed, on each end of the running board, there’s a black cylinder that houses each bulb. Twist right and the bulb with reflector will come out. I removed the o ring and lubed it with silicone grease. It makes it easier to twist the socket into the assembly. The bulbs seem to help hold in the reflector. I put the new bulb in the reflector and the bulbs stem just fit past the hole in the reflector. Then I put the reflector and bulb in the socket. To put back the socket back in the cylinder, line up the notches at the top and bottom, then push in and simultaneously twist right. The rear bulb is a pain since the clearance to remove the socket is so tight. I had to remove the black plastic clip holding the running boards skin to that metal bracket.
I had to remove the running boards to get to the bulb housing that are on each end of the running boards. There’s a post showing how to replace the bulbs without removing the running boards but it is so much easier to remove the bulbs once the running boards are off. There’s very little real estate to twist off the cap that holds the bulb. It has fins to make it easier to twist, but after 20 years, my caps were all seized. I tried to do it without removing the running boards but given how limited the space is to contort my hands, I just couldn’t muster the grip strength to twist it. I did get one off but I couldn’t get it back on.
I used:
13mm (1/4 inch drive) - For the front right passenger side nut and bolt that holds the bracket. Fit is super tight. Couldn’t even turn the tiny ratchet even a quarter turn.
13mm short and long ( 3/8 inch drive) - for the nut and bolt on the passenger side two middle brackets and the lower bolt in the ps rear bracket. Depending on clearance, I had to change sockets.
12mm (3/8 inch drive) - Drive doesn’t matter but what I happened to pick out. Used to loosen the two nuts on each of the two middle brackets. I just loosened and didn’t remove.
13mm and 12mm monkey wrench - to have as backup
To remove the running board, unplug the connector. It’s towards the front of the running board. PITA to remove. Push down on the bump which moves the notch out of the way so you can pull the connector out. Careful to not break. Once disconnected, remove the plastic bracket holding the wire that’s coming from the underside of the truck. When you drop the running board, this will prevent it from hanging by that wire attached to the front bracket.
Remove all nuts and bolts holding the running board bracket to the body.
Front bracket - 2 bolts
Front middle bracket - 1 nut and 1 bolt
Rear middle bracket - 1 nut and 1 bolt
Rear bracket - 1 bolt (there’s two, but I only had to remove the lower bolt. I think the 12mm cadmium plated bolt acts as registration to make lining up the bolts easier.)
Loosen the two 12mm nuts on the bottom of the middle brackets - Horizontal part of the bracket facing the ground.
Front middle bracket - 2 nuts
Rear middle bracket - 2 nuts
The running boards at this point are held up by the two studs that the nut was on at each of the two middle brackets. Laying under the running boards looking up at the two middle brackets, wiggle the running boards towards the inner side of the truck and continue supporting the running boards while getting the brackets off the stud. If you don’t, the running boards will just crash down after the brackets are off the studs.
Once removed, on each end of the running board, there’s a black cylinder that houses each bulb. Twist right and the bulb with reflector will come out. I removed the o ring and lubed it with silicone grease. It makes it easier to twist the socket into the assembly. The bulbs seem to help hold in the reflector. I put the new bulb in the reflector and the bulbs stem just fit past the hole in the reflector. Then I put the reflector and bulb in the socket. To put back the socket back in the cylinder, line up the notches at the top and bottom, then push in and simultaneously twist right. The rear bulb is a pain since the clearance to remove the socket is so tight. I had to remove the black plastic clip holding the running boards skin to that metal bracket.