LED's for lighting install for tailgate and cargo area (1 Viewer)

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When camping the rear of the LC 100 is the work station for every thing. In winter the days are short and I often arrive in the dark needing more light than a headlamp or stock lighting provides.

I'm starting small with lights on the hatch door to illuminate the tailgate and a light for the cargo area. This is the core of the camping need and will just be handy hauling the groceries.

I chose the rigid alumium channel lights (water proof). I feel they will hold up for years, look clean and rigid helps with mounting options.

Here is the final mock up that confirms the strips put out enough good light and in the right places. I worked up to this with a single 2' led strips before ordering the two 1' strips before committing further time in the design.
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This is the final result of 4-5 hours of installing the lights. I'm really please with the light. It's bright, it's low drain, there are no shadows on the tailgate from my head. Note: The lights are in but power to the rear, 12v fuse box and switches in the rear are not. So, for now its plug and play.
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I really appreciate everyone's install photos as it has help in my own planning. I'll return the favor for those that may want to see the way I did this. There are lots of good ways to end up lighting the rear area this is mine.

This is the way I mounted the cargo light, wired to two alumium strip that just slide into the slots. I choose the superbrightleds item number in the photo. They have little spring clip that holds the light really well. I put connectors on it so I could just pull it out if I want to.
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The door lights are the same type but 11.8". The are attached with SS wire not your average box box wire but I think that would work fine. I chose this method as I felt I it would be clean and grab a lot of the trim plastic. I located it so that a rib would be in the loop for addition strength.


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I was able to run the wires thru the stock location and up thru the rubber wiring chase from the door into the car. I used marine duplex wire ancor 16 awg. I was stiff enough to just push thru the chase after I untaped the center support.
 
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I ran the wire down the left side to a spot just above the 12v plug. In the future I'll tie this into a nearby switch.
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Future plans include the RTT light and a light for the RTT annex. The outside awning will get lights too.
 
Nice work.

Did you use the "courtesy switch" in the hatch to shut off the lights when you close it?

Thanks, I did not tie into the hatch switch. I am planning to use a led replacement in the stock fixture for the every day lighting. I will power these from the 2nd battery and put the switch below the stock 12volt socket some where.

My why: I want to keep my stock wiring stock. I want to run the future fridge and new stuff out back, off the newly installed 2nd battery.
 
When camping the rear of the LC 100 is the work station for every thing. In winter the days are short and I often arrive in the dark needing more light than a headlamp or stock lighting provides.

I'm starting small with lights on the hatch door to illuminate the tailgate and a light for the cargo area. This is the core of the camping need and will just be handy hauling the groceries.

I chose the rigid alumium channel lights (water proof). I feel they will hold up for years, look clean and rigid helps with mounting options.

Here is the final mock up that confirms the strips put out enough good light and in the right places. I worked up to this with a single 2' led strips before ordering the two 1' strips before committing further time in the design.
View attachment 1247681

This is the final result of 4-5 hours of installing the lights. I'm really please with the light. It's bright, it's low drain, there are no shadows on the tailgate from my head. Note: The lights are in but power to the rear, 12v fuse box and switches in the rear are not. So, for now its plug and play.
View attachment 1247683
I really appreciate everyone's install photos as it has help in my own planning. I'll return the favor for those that may want to see the way I did this. There are lots of good ways to end up lighting the rear area this is mine.

This is the way I mounted the cargo light, wired to two alumium strip that just slide into the slots. I choose the superbrightleds item number in the photo. They have little spring clip that holds the light really well. I put connectors on it so I could just pull it out if I want to.
View attachment 1247691

The door lights are the same type but 11.8". The are attached with SS wire not your average box box wire but I think that would work fine. I chose this method as I felt I it would be clean and grab a lot of the trim plastic. I located it so that a rib would be in the loop for addition strength.


View attachment 1247733
View attachment 1247734
I was able to run the wires thru the stock location and up thru the rubber wiring chase from the door into the car. I used marine duplex wire ancor 16 awg. I was stiff enough to just push thru the chase after I untaped the center support.

Nice work!
 
Ok so forgive my ignorance here but you have a two footer on the hatch that shines kind of over your shoulders and what's the length of the one near the top edge OP the body opening, in the second pic?

Great project, even if I did this and just used a switchable plug for the 12V socket back there this is a great mod!
 
Ok so forgive my ignorance here but you have a two footer on the hatch that shines kind of over your shoulders and what's the length of the one near the top edge OP the body opening, in the second pic?

Great project, even if I did this and just used a switchable plug for the 12V socket back there this is a great mod!
The two bars on the doors are 12" and the one just inside the cargo area against the underlined is 24". I ran it un-switched off the 12v plug until I added more plugs and 3 switches.
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Took a photo of the model number and the label above. It says cool white....not sure what that translates to in color temperature (degrees Kelvin). That said it is a light that renders colors well and makes seeing color changes in the cooking process easy.

One comment, if you got a color controllable led that produced this high quality white light (90% usage) and a night vision red that would be cool. I would not sacrifice the white light or a lot of cash.......but something to consider if your camping in an annex or in the truck itself.

I love flipping the "let there be light" switch when loading up at the grocery store.
 
I'm hoping to add some rear lighting for camping etc, similar to what has been done before. I wanted to a 3 way switch with 1 position turning on a small light bar for light duty situations like unloading groceries etc. I also want to add some higher power hatch lights similar to RobRed's nicely detailed write-up shows here:

Rear Hatch / Camping Lights Install

I'm wondering if anyone has a lead on where I can find some small round lights (2.5" dia or so if possible) that are also adjustable, but not crazy expensive. I'd like to find some lights that adjust like the following:

Leer Adjustable LED (Slave), 10-30VDC

I'd like to be able to angle the lights away from the back of the LC and more out back towards camp so i'm looking for something that has a little adjustment.

Back to the switch. I'd like position 1 to turn on just the smaller LED light bar. The center position is off and the 3rd position will turn on both the LED light bar as well as the hatch lights for full lighting power. My questions beyond the sourcing of the LED hatch lights (would also take a recommendation for a nice 3-way switch) are can I accomplish this set up with 1 5-way relay? Secondary question would be about being able to tie the light bar into the courtesy switch, but not the hatch lights?
 
@Fitzo I've been working on the same thing and here's my idea so far: I bought a set of these from eBay: 2x 20" 5-Function LED Strip Tailgate Bar Truck Brake Reverse Signal Light Lamp | eBay

The two 20" lengths are flexible and self-adhesive and will mount on the upper hatch trim on either side of the inside handle. They have white, red, and amber LEDs built in. You can activate them individually and the red LEDs have two intensities (tail & stop). I don't plan on using the amber LEDs.

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It will take only two small holes in the trim to route the wires into the hatch, so it's pretty reversible and non-destructive to the trim. I'll use a four-way rotary switch to select which LEDs are on (OFF, red low, red high, white) like this:KC14A13.002NLS E-Switch | Switches | DigiKey. The two strips only draw about 150mA when on; the switch is rated at 350mA.

The connections are shown in the pic below. The wiring is like this:

Connector pin 1 (Shrouded pin on left in picture): Connect to vehicle ground
Connector pin 2: Connect to 12V for "red low"
Connector pins 3&4: Connect BOTH to 12V for "red high"
Loose white wire: Connect to 12V for "white"

(FYI the amber lights come on when connecting pins 3 & 4 individually to 12V. Apparently you can't have them both on at the same time.)

I'm not sure of the durability of these strips, but they're fully encased in flexible clear silicone-like rubber, and when mounted they should be pretty immune to damage from bending. Repetitive flexing is what will damage the internal parts so don't play around with them too much before mounting them. Hope this helps.

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Ayune,

Thanks for your reply. So many different ways to go about these projects. Its fun to see everyone's ideas. I think I'm going with a DPDT 3 way switch so I can control both sets of lights with the same switch.
 

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