LED interference..? Video proof??? (1 Viewer)

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Have all lights swapped out to LEDs inside and out (courtesy lamps underneath mirrors, step, headlights)....no issues.

I do notice I have to stand right next to door handle for it to unlock though.
 
Certainly not crazy after seeing that.
Bizarre for sure.

I’d try deactivating the lights and try....then pull them out and try.

One other thought... Have you tried pressing g the Start Button with the FoB itself? This should allow you to bypass the wireless signal (since this starts the truck even with a dead fob battery) and might shed some light on the question... (see what I did there? haha...[groan...])

To me...the most certain way to determine e it’s related to the LEDs is to simply put the OEM lights back in and see what happens with them on/off.
Yes pushing the button with the fob works. And if I turn off the door lights. I can start the truck. Haha. When I get some free time. I will start putting back the lights to stock. And see what that does.
 
Some LEDs create a LOT of broadband noise. I can 100% believe it. Its why I also have to run incandescent light bulbs on my garage door opener. When I tried to go to long life LEDs, the remote stopped working. Same issue.
 
Some LEDs create a LOT of broadband noise. I can 100% believe it. Its why I also have to run incandescent light bulbs on my garage door opener. When I tried to go to long life LEDs, the remote stopped working. Same issue.

Is it actual RF they are transmitting? Or are they sending crosstalk frequencies through the wiring? I wonder if you could put a ferrous choke on the wiring to kill it, like we have on some motorized power tools. Seems like if they were generating RF to cause interference, they would not meet some sort of certification.
 
I don’t think certification is much of a concern for stuff like this coming out of China.
 
Is it actual RF they are transmitting? Or are they sending crosstalk frequencies through the wiring? I wonder if you could put a ferrous choke on the wiring to kill it, like we have on some motorized power tools. Seems like if they were generating RF to cause interference, they would not meet some sort of certification.

Yep. I would almost guarantee that you won't see the FCC stamp of approval on any of that stuff from China. More information here:

It isn't crosstalk or an SI issue. Its simply broadband noise. Usually, it isn't a problem in standard applications. It takes money, research, and time to make such a high powered LED in a small package quiet. And its really only 1% of people who care or are impacted. Crap from China strikes again....
 
So a few weeks ago I replaced all 11 interior lights to LEDs from super bright LEDs. And now it seems like I can’t use the button on the outside of the handle to lock it or use the fob to lock it. I also normally keep my key in my left pocket and now it will not start unless I keep it in my right pocket. So if it is the leds what ones should I change back first to see what may fix this?

Add another to the list who has remote FOB issues after upgrading interior lights to LED. I did read this thread when it originally posted but forgot about it when I processed my SuperbrightLED purchase last week. I ordered replacements for 2 front dome, 2 spot (map) lights (btw, map bulbs don't appear to be replaceable...at least not with what was recommended), a pair for 2nd row and 2 reverse bulbs. Immediately noticed same FOB issue (NO KEY DETECTED) after install was complete.

I did this upgrade late yesterday then left early this morning for a road trip so I haven't been able to thoroughly troubleshoot but the 'flaky' FOB connection behavior that I've experienced since yesterday seems to align with what others in the thread have experienced. Maybe the higher priced LEDs from other vendors address this issues. FWIW, this is a '14 LX and I did have an iPhone in-pocket.
 
Add another to the list who has remote FOB issues after upgrading interior lights to LED. I did read this thread when it originally posted but forgot about it when I processed my SuperbrightLED purchase last week. I ordered replacements for 2 front dome, 2 spot (map) lights (btw, map bulbs don't appear to be replaceable...at least not with what was recommended), a pair for 2nd row and 2 reverse bulbs. Immediately noticed same FOB issue (NO KEY DETECTED) after install was complete.

I did this upgrade late yesterday then left early this morning for a road trip so I haven't been able to thoroughly troubleshoot but the 'flaky' FOB connection behavior that I've experienced since yesterday seems to align with what others in the thread have experienced. Maybe the higher priced LEDs from other vendors address this issues. FWIW, this is a '14 LX and I did have an iPhone in-pocket.
Hmmm very odd. I’ve never had this problem with superbrightled before. I bet they switched to a cheaper light to keep cost down. Very disappointing. Now I still need to tack down what light I replace that’s causing all this crap and find a better one.
 
Just to update this, I put some cheap Amazon LEDs in and it fixed the problem.
 
Just curious but is there any chance that they were knockoff bulbs? I guess I mean counterfeit.
 
Just curious but is there any chance that they were knockoff bulbs? I guess I mean counterfeit.
Maybe, they where from superbrightleds so I would expect them to be great ones.
 
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Wow! I have experienced this issue for the last year. Changed battery 4 or 5 times. Speculated if it had to do with keeping the fob too close to the vehicle. Keeping the vehicle locked or unlocked, etc. Interestingly, the problem started immediately after I installed my full set of superbrightleds. I also know someone else on this forum who has the same issue and he is the one who gave me the part numbers for the LEDs. My truck is currently in for service, but when I get it back, I am going to switch out to incandescent and see if this goes away.
 
As I mentioned, my truck is having maintenance done, but I was pinged last night by the guy doing the work. He said he noticed that the fob did not work when the dome lights were on, but worked fine when off. This seems to jive with the anecdotal observation (another member made) that the fob seems to work more reliably when the car is locked vs kept unlocked in the garage.

Would someone on this thread who has the issue, please test the dome light theory? Hoping together we can get some descent data points. Thanks!
 
As I mentioned, my truck is having maintenance done, but I was pinged last night by the guy doing the work. He said he noticed that the fob did not work when the dome lights were on, but worked fine when off. This seems to jive with the anecdotal observation (another member made) that the fob seems to work more reliably when the car is locked vs kept unlocked in the garage.

Would someone on this thread who has the issue, please test the dome light theory? Hoping together we can get some descent data points. Thanks!
Put in knock off leds. It fix it. Im that’s guy. Super bright lights do not like this truck.
 
So a few weeks ago I replaced all 11 interior lights to LEDs from super bright LEDs. And now it seems like I can’t use the button on the outside of the handle to lock it or use the fob to lock it. I also normally keep my key in my left pocket and now it will not start unless I keep it in my right pocket. So if it is the leds what ones should I change back first to see what may fix this?

I don’t know the answer, so maybe.

But I’ve swapped and added a zillion different LEDs all over the place in my truck for years. No FOB issues. Swap in new FOB batteries and try again. Also… FOB sensors are all over the truck. They can die.

There are enough folks chiming in to make me wonder, but I have quite a variety of LEDs all over and nothing like you describe.
 
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I don’t know the answer, so maybe.

But I’ve swapped and added a zillion different LEDs all over the place in my truck for years. No FOB issues. Swap in new FOB batteries and try again. Also… FOB sensors are all over the truck. They can die.

There are enough folks chiming in to make me wonder, but I have quite a variety of LEDs all over and nothing like you describe.
Seriously, this is true. Some of these cheap leds will mess with the remote sensors.

My brother recently replaced the license plate bulbs (only) in his '17 Highlander, and the keyless entry went wonky. He put the regular incandescent bulbs back in and the problem went away. Then it happened on his '19 miata.
 
Seriously, this is true. Some of these cheap leds will mess with the remote sensors.

My brother recently replaced the license plate bulbs (only) in his '17 Highlander, and the keyless entry went wonky. He put the regular incandescent bulbs back in and the problem went away. Then it happened on his '19 miata.

I’m open to that.

Its just harder to see it as common when I’ve LED’d the living poo out of everything in and arounnd my 200 with never a single hint of that. I actually believe if I carefully count, there are somewhere between 200 and 1500 light emitting diodes (yes, one thousand five hundred) in and on my truck, depending on which are active (the extra 1200 are on my crazy buggy whip I use in the DDDD (dusty desert dune darkness). Even fully lit up, no issue.

-Everythig from sophisticated Baja Designs, Stedi, Milwaukee, …to sketchy “Super Bright LED” rear lights—each vontaining 20 each (40), three National Lunas with 30 each (so 90), various brands in all of the 11 interior spots, each of which contain many individual LEDs per unit… …High power headlight hi and lo beam LEDs, and many more.

And still… No such trouble.

Maybe I’m just *incredibly* lucky?
:meh:
 

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