LED Headlight Conversion on the CHEAP
- Thread starter dodored
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dodored
That ain't your cake Phillip! That's Simones cake!
- Thread starter
- #2
What you can do is to take out the H4 lamps which are held in by a small retention wire. Then you substitute LED lamps in the housing. Instant LED conversion. You just plug them into your existing harness and call it a day. There is instant improvement of light intensity and color, along with much less current draw from the LED lamps. The lamps run about $30 a pair delivered to your door. The passenger side is a little tight against the battery, but mine fit without any struggle.
dodored
That ain't your cake Phillip! That's Simones cake!
dodored
That ain't your cake Phillip! That's Simones cake!
- Thread starter
- #5
Here is a link that may work for a while:
H6054 / H6052 / H6014 Head Light Glass Housing Lamp Conversion Chrome - 7x6 (B) | eBay
Replace your old headlight housing to a premium pure glass housings. Our housings have removable bulb sockets. Content - 2Pcs Set Sealed Beam Glass Housing with 2Pcs H4 Super White Halogen Bulbs. Made with High Quality Glass Lenses - NOT cheap plastic!
www.ebay.com
I've been interested in doing this but would like to find the Toyota part # for the rectangular H4 housings if anyone knows of it. The LC guys are doing this with the round housings in a factory Koito. Thanks!
I'm running LEDs in everything for all the reasons you say, but I've found the reflectors for halogens don't project the light well with LEDs. They are bright, white, use way less power and are cheaper, but they don't go down the road as far.
In my experience.
In my experience.
dodored
That ain't your cake Phillip! That's Simones cake!
- Thread starter
- #9
I agree with your comment about the beam pattern. What I did was to adjust the beam pattern relatively close to the front of the truck to illuminate the road surface directly ahead. Then I added the KC Slimline LED spots to give me a better long view when I need to augment the weak bright light pattern.
New Sale! KC SLIMLITE® LED 6” Pair Pack System (Factory Second), KC 100 | eBay
KC’s Slimlite® LED lights provide exceptional output through the use of high-performance Cree® XD-16 LEDs. Slimlite® LED lights feature an optimized beam pattern that has a spot beam output for long-distance lighting along with fill light for short to mid-range light.
www.ebay.com
I use these halogen headlights.
hella https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001G72VIK?tag=ihco-20
I'm not a fan of cheap led bulbs, they don't work well in a reflector housing made for halogen bulbs. Maybe good light for the driver but blinds everyone else on the road
you can upgrade the bulbs for the bright setting to these
hella https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001G72VIK?tag=ihco-20
I'm not a fan of cheap led bulbs, they don't work well in a reflector housing made for halogen bulbs. Maybe good light for the driver but blinds everyone else on the road
you can upgrade the bulbs for the bright setting to these
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I love my Hella headlights with the H4. Personally, I don't feel the need to have more.
interesting thread ,i dont know about anyone else but i ran into a MAJOR problem with swapping in LED headlights because of Toyota being a revolving switched ground and not a switched hot wire . i have the complete LED sealed headlights . these are the 3 prong looks just like original halogens . i finally had a friend whos a electrician build me a stand alone modified wiring harness for my 84 . from my research this is a problem on toys and i think Volvos and some jeep Cherokees ,the reason i went with LED and not the H4 filament type is the LEDs are not fragile and my truck is used a lot offroad in Nevada for prospecting . ive been a mechanic/millwright for 30 years and work with veteran electricians and absolutely we could not get it to work without building a harness
LEDs, being a diode, need the current to flow in one direction. On most vehicles you have positive to the low beam, positive to the high beam, and the third prong is ground. This is the direction the LEDs need. Toyota trucks are wired backwards.
On Toyotas you have positive to the third prong. The high beam, and low beam, are grounded through the light switch. The solution is an aftermarket harness like they use for H4 conversions.
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dodored
That ain't your cake Phillip! That's Simones cake!
- Thread starter
- #16
On further research I see that the constant 12 volts to the LED circuit board in the sealed version of the LED headlight causes a constant "on" condition even when the light switch is in the off position on a Toyota. The LEDs will have a faint glow to them in the switch off position, and will eventually kill the battery from the low current draw. I think that the H4 LED conversion bulbs that I am using may have a different circuit board in them, thus not presenting this issue. My headlights are actually off when they are off. Feedback is appreciated....
yes this is what we did although my friend had to modify the H4 harness , it would not work out of the box ( it may have been because they were for 4 headlight systems ) , i have a schematic from him somewhere . i had him make me 10 of them i was going to try selling them but never went forward with it , for one thing i dont think theres enough demand for converting old toys to LED but they really do a way better job than halogens
we might be talking apples to oranges here , ive seen different lights called the same thing ,I AM NO EXPERT , there is Xenon, HID, LED ect .H4 i believe are dual filament . i dont think the LEDs i have have a circuit board unless its sealed inside the unit but it might i got them off ebay for cheap , they are not DOT approved and said not legle for on hiway use on the box they are actually a bunch of small LED diodes and when you hit lowbeam it just shuts some of them off ,the reason i didnt go with the H4 filament type lights is i read they didnt do well with heavy vibration . mine look similar to this picture
dodored
That ain't your cake Phillip! That's Simones cake!
- Thread starter
- #19
I think that there may be some construction differences in what you mentioned and the lamps that I was recommending. Not sure how sensitive the COB chips are to current switching, but as I mentioned I have had them in my Yota for about a month with no adverse affects. Here are the specifications on the bulbs:
Specification:
Features:
Fan-Less heat dissipation channel
Specification:
- Product Type: H4 9003 High-Low Beam COB LED Headlight Conversion Kit
- Bulb Type: H4 9003, Hi-Low Dual Beam
- LED Type: COB LEDs
- Input Power: 72W/set (36W/bulb)
- LED Quantity(each bulb): 12pcs CSP / COB chip
- Luminous Flux: 16000LM/set (8000LM/bulb)
- Beam Angle: 270 Degree@ Low beam, 360 Degree@ High beam
- Material: Aviation 6063 Aluminum Profile
- Voltage: DC 9-32V (Fit 12V, 24V vehicles)
- Color Temperature: Pure White 6000K
- Operating Temperature: -40~+80°C
- IP67 Rate Waterproof, Shockproof and Dustproof
- Liftspan: >30000hrs
- Warranty: 5 Years
Features:
- Super bright CSP COB chip, 360 degree clear beam no blind zone
- Engineering beam pattern design throw light on road evenly at appropriate angle without foggy light
- Xenon white light reflect road paint/signs better to show clearer road situation
- All-in-one heat conduction & high speed mute fan system keep the light bulb in appropriate working temperature
- Built-in constant current CPU, instant full brightness without start-up relay
Fan-Less heat dissipation channel
- Fluted Heat Dissipation offer larger area for quicker dissipation speed
What do you guys recommend for an upgraded wiring harness? I found this one on Amazon. Any suggestions?
Amazon product ASIN B00H5JFHR0
Amazon product ASIN B00H5JFHR0