LCA Bushings

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Joined
Apr 24, 2025
Threads
5
Messages
21
Location
Nevada
After replacing my UCAs and getting an alignment, I have a clunk noise. I had someone steer the wheel while I checked underneath to see where its coming from and the RH Front bushing bolt is moving around, so I assume that the bushing is cooked. My main question is, is it possible to remove and press in the bushings without needing to disassemble everything to get to just the LCA? I would imagine I could drop the LCA from the frame, giving me some room to replace the bushings.
Ai rendering of my cruiser for attention lol

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you're asking if you can replace the bushing without taking the control arm off the vehicle? I have replaced mine, and they arent that hard to get off, just disconnecting the LBJ is the most difficult part. you'd have to disconnected the torsion bars anyway, so you might as well take it completely off so you can use a shop press
 
If you didn’t have a noise before the UCAs were replaced, I’d want to take a second look at those or anything the tech may’ve loosened to do the alignment. Also, a broken sway bar end link will make a solid clunk too. Hoping you find something easier than those LCA bushings.
 
you're asking if you can replace the bushing without taking the control arm off the vehicle? I have replaced mine, and they arent that hard to get off, just disconnecting the LBJ is the most difficult part. you'd have to disconnected the torsion bars anyway, so you might as well take it completely off so you can use a shop press
Without removing the LCA from the knuckle, basically trying to save myself some time on disassembling the wheel hub.
If you didn’t have a noise before the UCAs were replaced, I’d want to take a second look at those or anything the tech may’ve loosened to do the alignment. Also, a broken sway bar end link will make a solid clunk too. Hoping you find something easier than those LCA bushings.
I was thinking that, I'll check it out tomorrow. Should be about 24mm? I've already replaced the sway bar end links a year ago, i didn't think they would make such a big difference.
 
Without removing the LCA from the knuckle, basically trying to save myself some time on disassembling the wheel hub.

I was thinking that, I'll check it out tomorrow. Should be about 24mm? I've already replaced the sway bar end links a year ago, i didn't think they would make such a big difference.
The whole knuckle comes off in one piece including the rotor. You will have to disconnect the wheel speed sensor, upper/lower ball joint, tie rod, CV spring clip. Your wheel bearings are captured within the hub assembly. Cover the openings on the front and back to keep debris from getting in. However, if taking the hub off seems like too much work you might want to look at the LCA rear bushing walkthrough.
 
The whole knuckle comes off in one piece including the rotor. You will have to disconnect the wheel speed sensor, upper/lower ball joint, tie rod, CV spring clip. Your wheel bearings are captured within the hub assembly. Cover the openings on the front and back to keep debris from getting in. However, if taking the hub off seems like too much work you might want to look at the LCA rear bushing walkthrough.
I don't think it's too much work, I just had the repacked the bearings 10k miles ago. It's also possible to just remove the LCA from the knuckle for anyone wondering:

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Even if, rubber of bushing shot. Bolt, should not be moving around. The center of bushing is a steel shaft, which bolt compresses frame bracket onto center of bushing. This clamps in the steel center of bushing, between frame bracket.

Either shop loosened bolt or LCA has been off before and was not properly torqued in.

Note:
When LCA bolts torqued down to 170ft-lbf. It's important to have, vehicle/LCA in neutral stance (as if driving down the road). This is best done, with vehicle sitting on ground with its full weight on its tires.
 
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