LC200 Rear Tailgate Cargo Interior Light DIY - Total Cost $26+tax

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

IMG_9347.webp
IMG_9329.webp
IMG_9323.webp
IMG_9321.webp
IMG_9317.webp
IMG_9316.webp
IMG_9372.webp
 
zone said:
No issues thus far for me, and happy with the results!
Click to expand...
I just got into this tonight & my 2016 Land Cruiser does not have any red wires for the hatch release. I bought the same light & clips that ZONE installed. Anyone have a recommendation on what to tie into? This is a photo of the hatch release which is just behind the cutout. I've got green, white & a thicker white/black stripe. I don't have a clue about electrical... Thanks

IMG_3041.webp
 
TxAgg said:
I just got into this tonight & my 2016 Land Cruiser does not have any red wires for the hatch release. I bought the same light & clips that ZONE installed. Anyone have a recommendation on what to tie into? This is a photo of the hatch release which is just behind the cutout. I've got green, white & a thicker white/black stripe. I don't have a clue about electrical... Thanks

View attachment 3611568
Click to expand...

2016 doesn’t have an automatic tailgate like 2018+, so that power isn’t there. You’ll have to tap in somewhere else.
 
I didn’t have a power liftgate on my 2011. Followed instruction in this thread and tapped into dome light and fished wires through.
 
zone said:
Just did this mod, different light. Total Cost for $35. Light can do Red and White which is what I was hoping for.

Red & White Light with Power Buttons - RED White Car Interior LED Dome Map Reading Light Roll Bar Cage Mount switch UTV | eBay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/335006799417
T Connector for Wiring (10 Pack) - Amazon.com - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BHS5NKDP
I had some lying around but used m4 x 12 screws and 11/64 to drill the 3 necessary holes.


View attachment 3575818
View attachment 3575819View attachment 3575820View attachment 3575821View attachment 3575822
Click to expand...
Hey @zone i'm feeling a bit dumb, everything appears to be connected, but the lights aren't turning on.

I confirmed the lights work by connecting to a 9v battery and the tailgate close button works when plugged back in.

Do the wires need to be stripped or something? Thought the taps did that automatically.

1000012963.webp
1000012964.webp
 
ATwoZ said:
Hey @zone i'm feeling a bit dumb, everything appears to be connected, but the lights aren't turning on.

I confirmed the lights work by connecting to a 9v battery and the tailgate close button works when plugged back in.

Do the wires need to be stripped or something? Thought the taps did that automatically.

View attachment 3651265View attachment 3651266
Click to expand...
So I found that it didn’t work the first time I got it connected, if I unlocked and locked the car with the fob/opened one of the other doors power was flowing again to the light. Those connectors should work without any stripping if they snap/click close.

I think after a while the vehicle shuts off constant power to lights or other things so during the install it could “time out” don’t quote me on that. It looks wired correctly.
 
zone said:
So I found that it didn’t work the first time I got it connected, if I unlocked and locked the car with the fob/opened one of the other doors power was flowing again to the light. Those connectors should work without any stripping if they snap/click close.

I think after a while the vehicle shuts off constant power to lights or other things so during the install it could “time out” don’t quote me on that. It looks wired correctly.
Click to expand...
Hmm... Still no luck, and it's the connector to the push button to auto-close the tailgate?

It's a bit weird to say the least, the side panel light in the trunk area also isn't working...I've checked fuses. I did yank the third row which was powered in my LX, no idea if that's related.
 
Reading back through the thread, @grinchy did you ever figure out why the door close connector wasn't working for you? I think I'm seeing same as you, doesn't appear to be power to the listed red and black wires, and the other two are paying around 2v.
 
Did you try reversing polarity?
 
ATwoZ said:
Reading back through the thread, @grinchy did you ever figure out why the door close connector wasn't working for you? I think I'm seeing same as you, doesn't appear to be power to the listed red and black wires, and the other two are paying around 2v.
Click to expand...
i never got it working - got distracted and never went back at it
 
ATwoZ said:
Hmm... Still no luck, and it's the connector to the push button to auto-close the tailgate?

It's a bit weird to say the least, the side panel light in the trunk area also isn't working...I've checked fuses. I did yank the third row which was powered in my LX, no idea if that's related.
Click to expand...
I also pulled the third row in my 08, but the light on the side panel still works fine. I also added the same light you're adding to the tailgate and it worked. Is it possible there's damage to the wire in the area circled below? When I get home I'll try to remember to snap a pic of how I wired mine - it was the same as @zone described though.

1718036496078.webp
 
Tighe said:
I also pulled the third row in my 08, but the light on the side panel still works fine. I also added the same light you're adding to the tailgate and it worked. Is it possible there's damage to the wire in the area circled below? When I get home I'll try to remember to snap a pic of how I wired mine - it was the same as @zone described though.

View attachment 3651755
Click to expand...
Thank you for the confirmation, that definitely helps to know it's not the seat etc. The damage was from re-stripping, it's only the outer sheath, not the wire. was fine for testing on the 9v battery.

I attached a multimeter to the ends of the plug and wasn't getting anything out of those two wires...really a bit bizarre. Started trying to trace some of the wiring diagrams in TS last night, but just made my head hurt.
 
ATwoZ said:
Appreciate it - more than anything I'm feeling convinced it's not getting power there at all, just no clue why.
Click to expand...
Yeah my only other thoughts are that the t connector could be faulty or didn't latch enough to make contact with through the wire? Out of curiosity is your liftgate button that de-activates the power to the liftgate by the driver seat turned off? Not sure that'd make a difference but worth an ask. If not already try unplugging the harness from the liftgate button and make sure everything is snapped in within the wiring harness. Is the liftgate button still operating normally? Other than that, buttoning everything back up, closing all doors, locking the vehicle and then unlocking. I'm not sure where else it could be the issue.
 
zone said:
Yeah my only other thoughts are that the t connector could be faulty or didn't latch enough to make contact with through the wire? Out of curiosity is your liftgate button that de-activates the power to the liftgate by the driver seat turned off? Not sure that'd make a difference but worth an ask. If not already try unplugging the harness from the liftgate button and make sure everything is snapped in within the wiring harness. Is the liftgate button still operating normally? Other than that, buttoning everything back up, closing all doors, locking the vehicle and then unlocking. I'm not sure where else it could be the issue.
Click to expand...

Yeah - it's bizarre...with the multimeter I wasn't seeing any voltage at the pins for the tapped wires. Button still works just fine. The button to de-active the power liftgate is not engaged. Unplugged, and re-plugged more than a few times...have tried with plug connected and not-connected.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom