LC200 Rear Tailgate Cargo Interior Light DIY - Total Cost $26+tax

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I used the cargo light on my former '13, and it worked, but I seem to recall that it timed out and shut off after some period of time. That wasn't ideal for me, since I used it when camping, so want to be able to turn it on in the middle of the night. I ran constant power to the cargo area, and this resolved the issue.
 
View attachment 2844051So I wanted a rear hatch light that was super low profile and that looked as OEM as possible. I emailed VLEDS and they were kind enough to create a link for a single puddle light and adapter (6”) for my application. $32 + s/h later and and 5 minute install and I think it turned out awesome!

5500K WHITE UNIVERSAL AND FORD PUDDLE LIGHT - https://www.vleds.com/catalog/product/view/id/3778

PIGTAIL ADAPTER 2 PIN FEMALE + DUOTAP - https://www.vleds.com/base-adapter-2-pin-waterproof-pigtail.html

Man, they even aped the Lexus type face for their own logo. How appropriate!
 
The VLED product is a very easy to implement solution if you don’t need a separate on off switch. Only need to drill a 1.5” hole. Good work @Gr8Daneger
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Are these the black and red wires you suggest tapping into with the 6" harness? This is the connector just behind the plastic cover. And I don't need to worry about polarity of anode-cathode? @Toyoland66

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I used the 6” tap extension and went directly to the thick black and red wires on the hatch button. They have extra long extension to run elsewhere in the truck if need be. No splicing needed, the duotap is perfect (you need pliers to close). It’s easier to reach in and pop out the hatch button to release the wire than try to pull the wire out otherwise. It also doesn’t mater on the duotap what wire (red/black) goes where.

On my 2021, this is the connector that terminates at the rear hatch switch...but I'm confused as you said you connect to the 'thick black and red wires'.....but these are like 22GA ???? So did you connect the duotap to the the black and red in this connector?

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A note for others people following this thread...I'm an idiot...don't use the "thick red and black wires" located just behind the access panel. The wires you need to tap are the small black and red 18/20/22 gauge wires in the 4-pin harness that attaches to the rear-door-open/close button. The wires are small-gauge and I'm not sure what size they are. Also, removing the plastic cover pieces on the lift gate allows easy access for soldering as I'm not a fan of t-taps or vampire taps.....they're easy but not always reliable. Note that when pull the plastic cover pieces, the plastic retaining clips are fragile and can pop back into the recesses of the lift gate never to be seen again....I'm going to have to buy some to replace ones that disappeared during the removal and re-installation process. Pic below denotes the wires to tap. Thanks to the guys who pioneered this one....great mod and my idiocy made it more difficult than it needed to be.

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A note for others people following this thread...I'm an idiot...don't use the "thick red and black wires" located just behind the access panel.
on my '15 LX, it's the thick red and black wires.
They are "hot" with the hatch open, and off when closed.
 
A note for others people following this thread...I'm an idiot...don't use the "thick red and black wires" located just behind the access panel. The wires you need to tap are the small black and red 18/20/22 gauge wires in the 4-pin harness that attaches to the rear-door-open/close button. The wires are small-gauge and I'm not sure what size they are. Also, removing the plastic cover pieces on the lift gate allows easy access for soldering as I'm not a fan of t-taps or vampire taps.....they're easy but not always reliable. Note that when pull the plastic cover pieces, the plastic retaining clips are fragile and can pop back into the recesses of the lift gate never to be seen again....I'm going to have to buy some to replace ones that disappeared during the removal and re-installation process. Pic below denotes the wires to tap. Thanks to the guys who pioneered this one....great mod and my idiocy made it more difficult than it needed to be.

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Sorry about all the confusion with my post, after reading it again I can see what needed to be corrected.
 
I ordered the Vleds light and connector. Today I took apart my 2016 rear hatch and there's not a red/black wire combo on any connector anywhere.

The door unlock mechanism connector has 3 wires - solid red/solid blue/white with black stripe

Maybe that's only on 2020/2021 ???
 
I ordered the Vleds light and connector. Today I took apart my 2016 rear hatch and there's not a red/black wire combo on any connector anywhere.

The door unlock mechanism connector has 3 wires - solid red/solid blue/white with black stripe

Maybe that's only on 2020/2021 ???

I’m not 100%, but I’m pretty sure it’s the red and blue wires. Maybe someone better at this than me will chime in.
 
This is perfect. Just ordered the light but will be using it with a push button switch.
Hey @BrainDoc , I also ordered the VLED, duotap, and pushbutton switch. I am trying to wire it up. Do you have any advice on how to incorporate the pushbutton into the VLED light?

I am currently thinking about splicing the pigtail with the switch, but not very savvy in this department. Here is my ultra-low quality pic.

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Hey @BrainDoc , I also ordered the VLED, duotap, and pushbutton switch. I am trying to wire it up. Do you have any advice on how to incorporate the pushbutton into the VLED light?

I am currently thinking about splicing the pigtail with the switch, but not very savvy in this department. Here is my ultra-low quality pic.

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I just spliced a switch inline and it works fine.
 
I ordered the Vleds light and connector. Today I took apart my 2016 rear hatch and there's not a red/black wire combo on any connector anywhere.

The door unlock mechanism connector has 3 wires - solid red/solid blue/white with black stripe

Maybe that's only on 2020/2021 ???

You can check with a multi meter to be sure.. likely the red is power, blue goes to the lock when switch it pressed, and white-black is ground.

I would be concerned using those wires (and blowing a fuse) as they are only meant to run the lock. Best to run a new power wire for the light/s.

maybe it's ok as montegofd3s looks like he has an 08 and it worked ok.
 
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