real time - almost
So-
here is how it works. You put the SST marking part in where your axle seal would typically go, then put the bolt part of the SST through your bearings up to the top through the tension puller and then bolt it down. Tighten so you are at about 5 lbs of tension. Then you spray some layout paint on the middle of the sst, pull out the sst marking point and rotate the rest of the assembly, making a mark all the way around the sst. THis is your first reference point. Before you tear this all apart, you use a large digital caliper to measure the distance between the flap points on the two ends of the SST.
Next you put the SST on the hub with the spindle attached. Put the SST in the same manner as you did with the above, without the bearings, and tighten tight, but so that you can still rotate it. Pull out the marking point (you did put the marking point in first right?) The difference between the two marks is one of the key measurements. THis measurement minus 3 mm gives you the bottom shim diameter, lets call this diminsion D.
While you are working on the hub and spindle, measure beween the top and bottom machined surfaces. This measurement, less the first measurement above (between the SST surfaces) gives you the total amount of shims you need to use, lets call this diminsion C.
So, you know the total shims, you know the bottom shim, the difference gives you the top shim diminsion.
There you go.