jkeithw
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keith's FZJs & questions - your wisdom appreciated.
- Thread starter jkeithw
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Rubber on top of trim on that section.Phew!
- wait; rubber goes over, or door panel goes over?
jkeithw
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- Thread starter
- #103
Thx!
The rear doors turned out great, and Julia has been killing it on the vapor barrier restoration:
We ended up deleting the factory amp & removing it altogether for simplicity, and I was surprised to find out that the little dash tweeters still function - so we have a tidy little 6 speaker setup now.
jkeithw
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- Thread starter
- #104
Today I printed some spacers to push the fuse panel back and make room for the OBD2/Scangauge connector behind the fuse panel door. The connector can be unplugged if the state inspection ever warrants it (we don’t test anymore in my part of NC)
Now on to driving lights and GMRS antenna routing.
Now on to driving lights and GMRS antenna routing.
I would buy that
jkeithw
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- #107
Dash is almost completely finished - just need to wire the driving lights and reinstall the glove box.
Incidentally, this Powerwerx Panel Mount 65W Combo USB-C PD & USB-A Fast Device Charger fits nicely in the place of the stock cigarette lighter:
Their tech support recommends a 7.5a fused power source, so I just changed the factory 15a fuse and depinned the stock terminals from the connector and plugged them right in (mind which is positive/negative). Simple! (like I like it)
Incidentally, this Powerwerx Panel Mount 65W Combo USB-C PD & USB-A Fast Device Charger fits nicely in the place of the stock cigarette lighter:
Their tech support recommends a 7.5a fused power source, so I just changed the factory 15a fuse and depinned the stock terminals from the connector and plugged them right in (mind which is positive/negative). Simple! (like I like it)
jkeithw
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- Thread starter
- #108
I’m pulling power for the GMRS from the unused rear heater circuit (20-amp fused), so I made a connector for the wires under the passenger seat.
- Not terribly exciting, but it turned out well.
I may also power a power port in the rear of the LX center console from this circuit.
- Not terribly exciting, but it turned out well.
I may also power a power port in the rear of the LX center console from this circuit.
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I could use the print file!
jkeithw
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- Thread starter
- #111
Based on this discussion, I decided to run 4-gauge welding wire from the battery to the QPM for our camp setup. I'm comfortable with up to 60 amps on that circuit, and I doubt we'll need more than 50, which would be running everything at once (unlikely). I'll fuse it for whatever the actual need is - I'll be using this inline MIDI fuse holder at the battery.
I ended up with 17.5 feet of cable to reach the QPM, although I could probably cut a foot from that if the cable were to run directly back to the firewall instead of looping to the inner fender wall under the hood strut mount.
The 4-ga fits really nicely in the factory grommet, by the way - with room for an additional 4-ga cable if you need to add more later.
Pulling wires today, then starting reassembly (I'll wire the fuse/relay panel later, and unfortunately, will not have solar or lights for Expo next weekend).
I ended up with 17.5 feet of cable to reach the QPM, although I could probably cut a foot from that if the cable were to run directly back to the firewall instead of looping to the inner fender wall under the hood strut mount.
The 4-ga fits really nicely in the factory grommet, by the way - with room for an additional 4-ga cable if you need to add more later.
Pulling wires today, then starting reassembly (I'll wire the fuse/relay panel later, and unfortunately, will not have solar or lights for Expo next weekend).
jkeithw
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- Thread starter
- #112
- oh yeah, I also made a dash mount for our 23Zero solar lanterns. I did the same for my FJC about 4 years ago and it's worked out perfectly. There is no movement when wheeling, and they sit there and recharge until needed.
(ignore the residual glue from the windshield install, still need to clean that up)
(ignore the residual glue from the windshield install, still need to clean that up)
jkeithw
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- Thread starter
- #113
got a couple things done for J's 80. First, the catch can mount worked out nicely (it's out for e-coat now):
(These Radium cans are pricey, but amazing. Dipstick, drain, etc. - really nice)
And, the proportioning valve mount is going to work as well (going yellow zinc on this one):
Unlikely that we'd stick a tree branch up in there to damage the PV, but I'm certainly not worried about it now. The factory input line threads right in, so the output is the only mod needed.
Now, I need to finish up these bumper files, so I can get back on the exhaust project!
(These Radium cans are pricey, but amazing. Dipstick, drain, etc. - really nice)
And, the proportioning valve mount is going to work as well (going yellow zinc on this one):
Unlikely that we'd stick a tree branch up in there to damage the PV, but I'm certainly not worried about it now. The factory input line threads right in, so the output is the only mod needed.
Now, I need to finish up these bumper files, so I can get back on the exhaust project!
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You're not kidding about them liking their stuff. $300 for a catch can? I'd really like that patent number, just to satisfy my curiousity.
jkeithw
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- Thread starter
- #117
No, it's part number 20-0008-FL ($170 retail)
It does embarrass most other products, though. (Summit, etc.)
still...I mean, I'm sure it's nice but...
