Just purchased my 2017 Lexus GX 460 Premium! (1 Viewer)

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Very helpful perspective. Makes me less likely to take the dive until more bugs worked out to use Android Auto/Apple Carplay. Not interested in the rest. Very telling that you've had it for only a short time those consistent glitches. Sounds like my phone mount + Bluetooth + Android Auto will continue for the near future!
 
savetherobots said:
Very helpful perspective. Makes me less likely to take the dive until more bugs worked out to use Android Auto/Apple Carplay. Not interested in the rest. Very telling that you've had it for only a short time those consistent glitches. Sounds like my phone mount + Bluetooth + Android Auto will continue for the near future!
Click to expand...
It’s interesting, I’ve had a really bad time with the Grom VLine the first two weeks or so, but to be quite honest, it has been working quite well for me after that.

Apple CarPlay loads every time and seems to work well! However, I refrained from installing GApps so I’m not really getting the full use of the Grom VLine.

Even though it’s working well now, I still feel it’s way too expensive for just Apple CarPlay or Android Auto usage.
 
ben7 - thanks sharing your experience with Vline. Can you comment on your experience using Vline CarPlay for phone calls? Does the GX factory microphone work with it seamlessly? It sounds like the main nuance is non-functionality of the steering wheel hang-up/answer buttons.
 
So far only a few hiccups with my Vline on my 2010. I will say my screen on my 2010 does not allow scrolling and that is irritating but not GROM’s problem. Overall I’m satisfied. My ~3 week pros and cons are below.

Pros:
-Fast. Seriously, the UI is fast and boot ups are lightning quick.
-Keeps the app open that was last used when turning off the truck.
-Gapps is pretty decent and there are a couple of apps I like to use for example Torque Pro.
-I got it for less than $500 on a group buy
-Easy to install.
-With the capability of using a Bluetooth keyboard / mouse navigating can be easier.

Cons:
-Like mentioned in the video sometimes if you connect wirelessly and wired it can but not always freeze up.
-Losing a cell signal will either freeze CarPlay up or just stop working. Not necessarily GROM’s fault but it IS a thing to consider if you reside in low cell signal area.
-One of the USB ports will not charge a phone much if at all. You have one usb for charging / accessories and one that is for Carplay that is more of a maintainer than a charger. Not a big deal but a deal nonetheless.
-My biggest gripe for last. The navigation voice is SUPER QUIET especially in waze while in CarPlay. With the music or radio playing I cannot hear the navigation voice at all even with the volume maxed in waze and on the GROM CarPlay settings AND the audio lowering for the playing audio! VERY disappointing.

It you can get over any apprehension and install it yourself and get it during a group buy for $500 or less personally I think it’s worth having. If you pay more and pay for professional installation forget about it, too expensive at that point.
 
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smsrmdlol said:
Thanks for your post

you mentioned you also have a px6, was it an older version? I’m looking at that as well but you’re turning me off to it
Click to expand...

I bought my px6 back on June 1st 2020. Not sure what has changed if anything since. It was the more ram faster boot one—which frankly is still slow. It takes forever to boot up and the CarPlay app options are VERY limited with the px6. I wish it could use the GROM Vline’s UI and CarPlay system as it’s much better. I’m ready to trade it to someone for a factory nav ML unit + a few $$ to who likes android and can use it. My wife HATES it and I hate hearing her complain. LOL
 
MrTorgue said:
I bought my px6 back on June 1st 2020. Not sure what has changed if anything since. It was the more ram faster boot one—which frankly is still slow. It takes forever to boot up and the CarPlay app options are VERY limited with the px6. I wish it could use the GROM Vline’s UI and CarPlay system as it’s much better. I’m ready to trade it to someone for a factory nav ML unit + a few $$ to who likes android and can use it. My wife HATES it and I hate hearing her complain. LOL
Click to expand...

can you link me to where you got the from on group buy?
 
landsat6 said:
ben7 - thanks sharing your experience with Vline. Can you comment on your experience using Vline CarPlay for phone calls? Does the GX factory microphone work with it seamlessly? It sounds like the main nuance is non-functionality of the steering wheel hang-up/answer buttons.
Click to expand...

Not exactly. The pickup and hangup buttons don't seem to work and there seems to be an "echo" that people keep telling me exists whenever I call them through Apple CarPlay via the Grom VLine.

You can watch my update video on my YouTube channel as I talk about it there:
 
MrTorgue said:
So far only a few hiccups with my Vline on my 2010. I will say my screen on my 2010 does not allow scrolling and that is irritating but not GROM’s problem. Overall I’m satisfied. My ~3 week pros and cons are below.

Pros:
-Fast. Seriously, the UI is fast and boot ups are lightning quick.
-Keeps the app open that was last used when turning off the truck.
-Gapps is pretty decent and there are a couple of apps I like to use for example Torque Pro.
-I got it for less than $500 on a group buy
-Easy to install.
-With the capability of using a Bluetooth keyboard / mouse navigating can be easier.

Cons:
-Like mentioned in the video sometimes if you connect wirelessly and wired it can but not always freeze up.
-Losing a cell signal will either freeze CarPlay up or just stop working. Not necessarily GROM’s fault but it IS a thing to consider if you reside in low cell signal area.
-One of the USB ports will not charge a phone much if at all. You have one usb for charging / accessories and one that is for Carplay that is more of a maintainer than a charger. Not a big deal but a deal nonetheless.
-My biggest gripe for last. The navigation voice is SUPER QUIET especially in waze while in CarPlay. With the music or radio playing I cannot hear the navigation voice at all even with the volume maxed in waze and on the GROM CarPlay settings AND the audio lowering for the playing audio! VERY disappointing.

It you can get over any apprehension and install it yourself and get it during a group buy for $500 or less personally I think it’s worth having. If you pay more and pay for professional installation forget about it, too expensive at that point.
Click to expand...

I actually forgot to mention this in my latest GROM VLine update video but it's super annoying because I'll be listening to music on Apple CarPlay while Apple Maps have navigation going, and the voice prompts will be so low when my music volume is at level 20 for example. If I increase my music volume to level 40, then the navigation prompts are much better, but the music is so loud!

I tried going into Apple Maps in Settings and trying to set the navigation prompts to loud but nothing works! If you get this resolved, please let me know.
 
Are any of you seeing issues with using wireless CarPlay on the VLINE2 and the plugging into wired carplay mode (lightning cable is hooked up to USB1 on VLINE2). When I plug the cable in and (I assume) go to wired CarPlay, "Hey Siri" works to activate her, but then it's like it switches to a mic somewhere that gets no input at all.. she just sits there and times out.. then the VLINE2 unit starts to freeze up. Tried another cable, same result. Unplug and get back to wireless carplay, all works as expected.
 
r2m said:
Okay, here's another .02¢ worth of opinion. Now you'll have .04¢ in your account!
I'll answer your questions in the order you've placed them:
  1. For the MTS, if you have a screwdriver and an extra hour after work or on a weekend, you can very easily do it yourself. It is literally plug-n-play. No programing or anything, just plug it in and you'll see it on your dash. Crawl Control is a little more work but if you have a wee bit of mechanical and electrical (basically being able to tell colored wires apart one from another) you can do that also. And as for the programming, you can purchase Techstream or do the paperclip short cut. Both are easy. View the Youtube of the guy explaining how it's all installed and calibrated on the sticky thread, the very first post: 460-Add Crawl Control (CC) and Multi Terrain Select (MTS) to 2010-2019 models/all trims - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/460-add-crawl-control-cc-and-multi-terrain-select-mts-to-2010-2019-models-all-trims.1040976/
  2. Regarding installation shops:
    1. I used YotaMasters in Corona. Eric the owner is great to work with but because they are very good, there is usually several months wait time in their queue to get work done. If I remember correctly, mine took about 3 months. They're located here: 371 Elizabeth Lane Suite 100 Corona, CA 92878 (951) 279-0220 Here's their link: Yotamasters - Quality parts and service - https://www.yotamasters.com/ Mention my name!
    2. Then in your neck of the woods there's ORW (Off Road Warehouse) I've used them to rebuild my Icon shocks before. They seem good and stand by their work, but they may be $$$. 5555 Kearny Villa Rd. San Diego, CA 92123 (858) 565-7792 Here's their link: ORW San Diego - https://www.offroadwarehouse.com/articles/orw-san-diego-location
    3. And then there's 4Wheel Parts. I've used them many years ago and they have a pretty strong reputation for a chain store. There are several locations down in San Diego, so you'll have to use the link to see which is closest to you: Truck & Jeep Parts & Custom Installation in California | 4 Wheel Parts Stores - https://www.4wheelparts.com/stores/california
  3. Whoever does your suspension and tire installation will automatically do an alignment. That will be part of your install price. If they don't align, then somethings wrong, but the three shops mentioned above will do alignments as part of installation.
  4. Yes, 4Lo will impact several driving characteristics:
    1. Steering:
      1. Will become heavy and may want to pull out of your hands. Hold on tight in rocky terrain and above all when holding the steering wheel, DO NOT wrap your thumbs around the steering wheel!!
      2. Very difficult to go lock-to-lock, and on that note DO NOT push your vehicle hard in 4Lo at steering lock, you'll break something, like a half shaft or birfield (axle CV joint)
      3. You will have to turn the wheel much farther for your turns. It may even feel that something is broken, but everything is okay!
    2. Throttle:
      1. The whole idea of 4Lo is for very low gearing for steep and difficult terrain. Throttle response will be very jerky because of the low gearing. Freely use the shift lever to shift between 1st and 6th gears when going up or down very steep or difficult terrain. I'm not sure what you mean by, "...lazy to shift and drags out a gear..." without more information. I'm truly hoping your description of what you're feeling is not accurate and there's nothing amiss with your rig!

And one last point which you did not bring up and that you must consider, going with such a large diameter tire will dramatically change the driving dynamics of your vehicle and I'm not talking about suspension handling. I'm referring to mpg, your speedometer being very off, the transmission hunting for gears going over passes like Grapevine or Cajon pass.
If you're going to go with those size tires, I really recommend you re-gear your differentials!
Click to expand...
Awesome advice! When do you recommend re-gearing? It is my understanding that it is only necessary if you change the overall diameter more than 10%. Is that a good rule of thumb?
 
nameBrandon said:
Are any of you seeing issues with using wireless CarPlay on the VLINE2 and the plugging into wired carplay mode (lightning cable is hooked up to USB1 on VLINE2). When I plug the cable in and (I assume) go to wired CarPlay, "Hey Siri" works to activate her, but then it's like it switches to a mic somewhere that gets no input at all.. she just sits there and times out.. then the VLINE2 unit starts to freeze up. Tried another cable, same result. Unplug and get back to wireless carplay, all works as expected.
Click to expand...
Haven’t used siri so I cannot confirm if I have this issue. I have used wired CarPlay and haven’t had any issues so far with anything else. Well other than the lack of charging from that usb cable. LOL more like a maintainer when using the wired usb for CarPlay.
 
Rhking said:
Awesome advice! When do you recommend re-gearing? It is my understanding that it is only necessary if you change the overall diameter more than 10%. Is that a good rule of thumb?
Click to expand...
I don't think I've ever seen a rule of thumb for when to re-gear. With the overland vehicles I've built, this being my third, my tire selection is always considerably larger over stock so I just know that I'll need to re-gear.
I'd only re-gear my diff's if I'm adding lockers, just because of the fact that the diff's are already open, so might as well re-gear! And I always add front and rear lockers.
The only other reason would be how large over stock your tire size and how you feel about the power/torque, especially how it feels going up long steep grades and/or towing, e.g. is your transmission hunting for the right gear (constantly shifting up and down)?
My advice would be to get the tires you want and just drive on them for some time and see how it feels. If you do go with a considerably larger tire and your rig is feeling really sluggish when accelerating or hills, maybe consider a re-gear.
Or if money is not an issue, just go ahead and re-gear (and add lockers??) when you get your larger tires.
 
r2m said:
I don't think I've ever seen a rule of thumb for when to re-gear. With the overland vehicles I've built, this being my third, my tire selection is always considerably larger over stock so I just know that I'll need to re-gear.
I'd only re-gear my diff's if I'm adding lockers, just because of the fact that the diff's are already open, so might as well re-gear! And I always add front and rear lockers.
The only other reason would be how large over stock your tire size and how you feel about the power/torque, especially how it feels going up long steep grades and/or towing, e.g. is your transmission hunting for the right gear (constantly shifting up and down)?
My advice would be to get the tires you want and just drive on them for some time and see how it feels. If you do go with a considerably larger tire and your rig is feeling really sluggish when accelerating or hills, maybe consider a re-gear.
Or if money is not an issue, just go ahead and re-gear (and add lockers??) when you get your larger tires.
Click to expand...
I love this forum. Thank you for the sage advice
 
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Very helpful info, just picked up a 460 today and noted the dreaded integrated climate control like the 100 series. I'm curious as to how the lift will be especially with the KDSS. After crawling under it today... seems like i'd like to rip it out..
 
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