Jmanscotch’s Daily Driver & Weekender Build (1 Viewer)

[jmanscotch]

I bought my 2010 GX460 over a year ago with 98k miles on it.

I’ve since racked up another 15k miles and some mods and figured I’d start a build thread to document some things in the works now and what’s been done. Plenty of you have seen mine already, so ignore me going back in time to catch the thread up.

The GX serves as my daily driver and family weekend off road tow rig. It’s just the wife and I right now, but we’re expecting our first kiddo in November. We’re in Colorado and enjoy getting off the beaten path to explore what the Rocky Mountains have to offer, taking the trails we need to get to the cool places and camp. We have minimal desire to get into highly technical trails in our travels since we typically go solo. The build is mainly designed for “light overlanding” or whatever we’re calling off roading and camping these days.

So far, the GX has:

- Dobinsons 2-3” lift kit with +100 lb front coils and +200 lb rear coils that make it closer to a 3” lift
- JBA Upper control arms
- SCS Stealth 6 wheels in Dark Matte
Bronze 17x8.5 -10mm
- Falken Wildpeak AT3 in 285/70R17
- Gamiviti Expo +++ Roof rack with the Gamiviti MaxTrax mounts w/ two MaxTrax
- Rago Fab ditch light brackets with Baja Designs S1 pods
- Third row delete with more to come soon on that
- Elevated rear diff breather
- Rad Rubber fender splash guards
- Scangauge II and custom Ram mount


Random pictures of everything to get caught up:

 

[jmanscotch]

Our home built off road camper we explore in and some places we’ve been in the last year:

 

[jmanscotch]

I’m changing paths on a few things, and have some Trail Talor GX460 front recovery points for sale. $120 Shipped for MUD

- bare metal that’d need cleaned up with a flap disk before paint/powder
- set of two
- 1/4 inch thick
- not longer available
- radiusd shackle mounts for soft shackles
- no hardware included, you’ll need four (4) grade 8 M12 bolts, 1.25 thread pitch, 50 mm long and two nuts for the rear side of the mount inside the frame rail, and washers

 

[jmanscotch]

With a kid on the way, I’ve decided to tackle a few items I’ve been waiting to do...yet try to get them done on a bit of a budget. One main item I’ve been neglecting is finding a more permanent way to carry my spare. I like some options like the Ronin Metal bumper less swing out and some of the DIY rear exterior carry options seen on MUD, but the Ronin unit still hasn’t been released and building my own would take me a bit and probably cost $500-$600 in materials.

I’ve decided to utilize the space from the third row delete and DIY a platform, a vertical spare tire carrier and a singular ARB drawer. I get my spare tire securely stored on board, some storage, a roller top cooler slide out and all for under a grand.

Today I started with building the platform base to build everything off of. It’s a basic 3/4 plywood base, with three supports underneath and mounted via the existing threaded holes in the floor.

I cleaned everything up and installed some sound deadening on the metal exposed after removing the 3rd row.

For my base support, I’m using three cross members:

- existing metal rise that held the 3rd row seats, just under the end of where the carpet extends to (and I’m using this as my level point for the rest of the supports)
- one 1.25” thick square post, just above the threaded bolt holes
- one 1/2-3/4” thick, 1” wide strip of board along the seal edge of the cargo area

I layed my 1.25” square post next to where it needs to sit and marked bolt hole center lines and areas that needed some clearance cut into them to allow the post to sit flat on the floor due to wiring and raised factory sound deadening.

The I measured and drilled the holes for the mounting bolts, opting to only use the outside two bolts in the end, as aligning all four would’ve been more effort and it seems very sturdy with the two.

Bolts are m10, 1.25 pitch, 2.5” long. I opted for Allen head bolts, but several styles would work. I used a router to flush mount the top of the bolts with the deck.

Test fit before stain and trim installation. The base deck is 40” deep (could be 40.5-41” if desired) and 42” wide.

Stained it and called it a night. Will clear it, install it and begin on the tire carrier cage.

 

[r2m]

In one of your top photos, I noticed that you have your MaxTrax cable (zip tied) tied together.
If I may make a suggestion, get a package of reusable cable ties and keep them in your vehicle.
I have a bunch of these I keep on board for every/anything needed, especially gear that needs to be lashed down but can be easily retrieved.
Amazon product ASIN B00YARJ14A

 

[jmanscotch]

@r2m

Appreciate the link, I should grab some of those for general use.

The zip tie on the MaxTrax is a temporary solution after I lost one of the mounting bolts. I searched for the MaxTrax pins but they’ve been out of stock everywhere for months, so waiting to find a set that isn’t marked up to $100+ when available, and that’ll fix the zip tie issue.

 

[r2m]

If you're handy with tools, you can just get a 1" wide x (whatever length)" x 1/8" thick. drill and cut some 1/4-20 or larger threads and use some wing nuts to clamp them down.
If you go to my build at post no. 68 Builds - R2M 2013 GX460 Overland Build - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/r2m-2013-gx460-overland-build.1104719/page-4
I detail how I mounted mine. Albeit, mine are vertical, but you can modify and use the same principle to mount them horizontal on your rack. Cheap and easy. I do keep a simple wire cable and small combo lock wrapped around them just to avoid having them walk away keep the honest, honest.
In fact I lock all my gear (jerry cans, highlift, etc.) with the same combination locks. They're the type that you can set your own combination. I just set them all to the same combination, 1234 (just kidding, don't try it, it won't work on my locks...) Then you don't need to worry about extra keys.

 

[jmanscotch]

I already have a mount, the Gamviti track mount and plastic top turn nuts that hold it all down and secured via a lock. I’m looking at getting the MaxTrax pins simply because I like the functionality of them better than a home-brewed setup. No chance of loosing bolts (like my current predicament).

 

[jmanscotch]

Worked on fabbing up the metal tire carrier today. Nearly done and mocking it up before making the last changes and add ons.

Turns out the ARB drawer I ordered is back ordered and the 4WP guy didn’t seem optimistic that it’d be shipped soon, so have to contemplate ordering the in stock, smaller in height, drawer or finding a work around for a while. Same story with the ARB single compressor.

Another run to the metal shop, some Amazon orders for carpet, straps, etc and I’ll be finishing up the basic setup.

 

[MrTorgue]

Worked on fabbing up the metal tire carrier today. Nearly done and mocking it up before making the last changes and add ons.

View attachment 2699510View attachment 2699511

Turns out the ARB drawer I ordered is back ordered and the 4WP guy didn’t seem optimistic that it’d be shipped soon, so have to contemplate ordering the in stock, smaller in height, drawer or finding a work around for a while. Same story with the ARB single compressor.

Another run to the metal shop, some Amazon orders for carpet, straps, etc and I’ll be finishing up the basic setup.

That tire carrier looks amazing.

 

[jmanscotch]

That tire carrier looks amazing.

Thanks, I’ve gotta add another diagonal support and some expanded metal to act like a cheap molle panel on the drivers side.

My goal is to secure nuts on the bottom of the base platform, so I can remove the tire, zip 4 bolts out of it and remove the entire thing relatively quickly if I need to haul something back there.

I’ll work up a mount and housing for the ARB single compressor in the dead space ahead of the tire and find a place, maybe between the door and the bottom of the tire, to secure a fire extinguisher. Then a drawer setup on the rest of the platform with a roller top for the cooler. Should be an ok setup for pretty low costs.

Here’s the side profile, though it’s a distorted pic, showing the dead spaces I plan to fit with useful things. All said and done, I have about 1” of clearance between the carrier and the seat and 1” between the tire and the rear door. A 34” tire is about the biggest you could fit vertically in the rear cargo space without a compromise of moving a seat forward.

 

[MrTorgue]

Thanks, I’ve gotta add another diagonal support and some expanded metal to act like a cheap molle panel on the drivers side.

My goal is to secure nuts on the bottom of the base platform, so I can remove the tire, zip 4 bolts out of it and remove the entire thing relatively quickly if I need to haul something back there.

I’ll work up a mount and housing for the ARB single compressor in the dead space ahead of the tire and find a place, maybe between the door and the bottom of the tire, to secure a fire extinguisher. Then a drawer setup on the rest of the platform with a roller top for the cooler. Should be an ok setup for pretty low costs.

Here’s the side profile, though it’s a distorted pic, showing the dead spaces I plan to fit with useful things. All said and done, I have about 1” of clearance between the carrier and the seat and 1” between the tire and the rear door. A 34” tire is about the biggest you could fit vertically in the rear cargo space without a compromise of moving a seat forward.

View attachment 2699568

Something like that would suit my 265/70/17’s quite well. I wonder if I’d have enough vertical space after I added a drawer system..?

 

[jmanscotch]

Something like that would suit my 265/70/17’s quite well. I wonder if I’d have enough vertical space after I added a drawer system..?

How tall are your drawers?

There's plenty of vertical space above the tire, but the tricky bit is if moving the centerline of the tire up will clear the top/back of the seat as it protrudes more into the cargo space and the same with the rear door, it angles into the cargo space a bit more near where the bottom of the window starts.

If you can throw your spare in there on top of the drawers and test fit, make sure there's a few inches of clearance in front/back of the tire, then you'd have room to fit some frame and straps.

 

[r2m]

Thanks, I’ve gotta add another diagonal support and some expanded metal to act like a cheap molle panel on the drivers side.

My goal is to secure nuts on the bottom of the base platform, so I can remove the tire, zip 4 bolts out of it and remove the entire thing relatively quickly if I need to haul something back there.

I’ll work up a mount and housing for the ARB single compressor in the dead space ahead of the tire and find a place, maybe between the door and the bottom of the tire, to secure a fire extinguisher. Then a drawer setup on the rest of the platform with a roller top for the cooler. Should be an ok setup for pretty low costs.

Here’s the side profile, though it’s a distorted pic, showing the dead spaces I plan to fit with useful things. All said and done, I have about 1” of clearance between the carrier and the seat and 1” between the tire and the rear door. A 34” tire is about the biggest you could fit vertically in the rear cargo space without a compromise of moving a seat forward.

View attachment 2699568

Question: why mount it on the passenger side? Generally one will want to have the right rear view more visible.
Was it because the drawer system you ordered has the fridge on the drivers side?

 

[jmanscotch]

Question: why mount it on the passenger side? Generally one will want to have the right rear view more visible.
Was it because the drawer system you ordered has the fridge on the drivers side?

Primarily that reason, the slide on the drawer.

If the drawer was mounted on the passenger side, the rear door would have to be 100% open to allow it to slide out far enough to be used practically. Now I only have to open it 100% if I’m changing a flat. Add that to the fact that we are almost always hauling a trailer when using a cooler, and the tongue would always be in the way of getting access to the passenger side comfortably with the rear door open.

As far as reduced visibility, I personally don’t find it much of a compromise. I rarely look out that back corner. I can see traffic in the passenger side mirror well enough (I learned long ago to set up your SIDE mirrors to see traffic beside you, not the traffic BEHIND you, like I see so many do, helps alleviate blind spots) and have the backup cam for backing and seeing that corner in those situations, so it’s a minimal obstruction IMO and just a compromise that needed to be made.

 

[MrTorgue]

How tall are your drawers?

There's plenty of vertical space above the tire, but the tricky bit is if moving the centerline of the tire up will clear the top/back of the seat as it protrudes more into the cargo space and the same with the rear door, it angles into the cargo space a bit more near where the bottom of the window starts.

If you can throw your spare in there on top of the drawers and test fit, make sure there's a few inches of clearance in front/back of the tire, then you'd have room to fit some frame and straps.

Don’t have the drawers yet. I’ll likely get the same ones as Giovanni got.

 

[jmanscotch]

I think any drawer setup over 4”, maybe 5” tall is going to be problematic in leaving enough room to fit the spare. Instead of rolling the spare directly in/out, you’d likely need to place it on top of the drawers flat, then stand it up in place, as the cargo space opening is shorter that the ceiling height. Not a huge concern, as it shouldn’t have to happen often, but a factor non the less.

This is the reason we’re opting to stick with a singular drawer. I’d love more storage, but don’t *need* it and the cost moving to a dual drawer setup spirals quickly as then I’d likely have to buy a bumper to mount the spare, plus the extra drawer cost.

A singular ARB drawer ($720) and what I’ve pieced together here (~$200) isn’t bad in comparison.

 

[MrTorgue]

I think any drawer setup over 4”, maybe 5” tall is going to be problematic in leaving enough room to fit the spare. Instead of rolling the spare directly in/out, you’d likely need to place it on top of the drawers flat, then stand it up in place, as the cargo space opening is shorter that the ceiling height. Not a huge concern, as it shouldn’t have to happen often, but a factor non the less.

This is the reason we’re opting to stick with a singular drawer. I’d love more storage, but don’t *need* it and the cost moving to a dual drawer setup spirals quickly as then I’d likely have to buy a bumper to mount the spare, plus the extra drawer cost.

A singular ARB drawer ($720) and what I’ve pieced together here (~$200) isn’t bad in comparison.

This is a good point. I was thinking about possibly getting the same drawer system @giovanni has in his GX. I just don't know if they would offer just one drawer.

Builds - Giovanni’s 2016 460 build

So this may seam a stupid question :)doh:) but I assume your drawer system is not removable to access third row seats, they're gone. Especially considering your second battery, correct? We have a "seat mounted" version of this drawer. It sits on top of the folded down 3rd row. It does not have...

forum.ih8mud.com

The irony is they offer a one drawer for the 470...though instead of using it as a fridge platform I'd use it as the spare tire platform. Maybe they could custom fab up something for the 460?

Lexus GX 470 Single Drawer + Fridge Platform - By Big Country 4x4

This expedition grade single drawer and fridge platform bolts down onto existing OEM bolt holes (no drilling required). It is designed specifically for the Prado 120 / Lexus GX470. Big Country 4x4's single drawer is perfect for the daily driver who also wants a fridge mounting option and more...

www.ruggedbound.com

*edit*
Oh and they are near Houston so I could likely just drive down there to pick it up. So that's a score.

 

[jmanscotch]

That’s a good point, if some supplier would offer half their setup, it’d be a good work around.

I chose the ARB RFH945 (Roller Floor High) as it was the largest they offered that’d fit the space, maximize capacity and had a roller floor top to it (which saves on a separate fridge slide). If you could get half a full drawer setup, that preferably has a built in slide top, that’d be the same concept and maybe even a bit more spacious than ARBs limited size offerings. Even the 945 will leave about an 8” gap between the drawer side and my spare tire carrier bracket. I think half a full drawer setup would likely drop that down to 6” or less.

If they won’t split it up on their end, you wanna go 50/50 and I’ll buy the drivers side with wing kit and you can buy the passenger side? Lol

Right now, my options are to wait for the RFH945 to get back in stock, settle for the 2” shorter RF945 drawer, that is in stock, build my own (don’t have the time or drive to) or find some creative alternative as suggested.

 

[MrTorgue]

That’s a good point, if some supplier would offer half their setup, it’d be a good work around.

I chose the ARB RFH945 (Roller Floor High) as it was the largest they offered that’d fit the space, maximize capacity and had a roller floor top to it (which saves on a separate fridge slide). If you could get half a full drawer setup, that preferably has a built in slide top, that’d be the same concept and maybe even a bit more spacious than ARBs limited size offerings.

If they won’t split it up on their end, you wanna go 50/50 and I’ll buy the drivers side with wing kit and you can buy the passenger side? Lol

Right now, my options are to wait the RFH945 to get back in stock, settle for the 2” shorter RF945 drawer, that is in stock, build my own (don’t have the time or drive to) or find some creative alternative as suggested.

I wonder if I reach out to them with my inquiry if they'd want to use my 460 or someone else's 460 if they are buying sooner as a prototype. I can imagine we wouldn't be the only ones with 460's / 5th gen 4R's who'd want a single drawer setup.