Intermittent starting issue

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beretta92

beretta92

Joined
May 4, 2024
Threads
2
Messages
7
Location
Meridian,idaho
I’ve got a 91 fj80 and every once in a while I will turn the key and nothing would happen. Fuseable link looks to be new and the starter was just replaced. The only way I can get the starter to engage is by tapping it with a screwdriver and then it works fine. Any ideas what this could be? Bad battery?
 
beretta92 said:
I’ve got a 91 fj80 and every once in a while I will turn the key and nothing would happen. Fuseable link looks to be new and the starter was just replaced. The only way I can get the starter to engage is by tapping it with a screwdriver and then it works fine. Any ideas what this could be? Bad battery?
Click to expand...
Bad starter contacts/bad starter.
You can't use your eyeballs to tell if a fusible link is faulty or not. Always use a meter.
Is the replacement starter a Denso unit? Denso is the OEM for starters and replacement contacts and plungers are available. Many many threads on this issue.
 
There are dozens of threads related to intermittent starting, I would run a search and read through what others experienced
 
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beretta92 said:
I’ve got a 91 fj80 and every once in a while I will turn the key and nothing would happen. Fuseable link looks to be new and the starter was just replaced. The only way I can get the starter to engage is by tapping it with a screwdriver and then it works fine. Any ideas what this could be? Bad battery?
Click to expand...
If you tap the starter either the contacts are bad, solenoid is sticking, or flex plate is damaged..
 
FYI, 3FE starter solenoid replacement contacts and plunger for OEM starter.
Battery terminal: 28226-72080
Motor terminal: 28226-72010
Plunger: 28235-35080
Total cost around $69 from any Toyota dealer, or about $36 from Partsouq.
 
I ran into the same type of problem with my 94, replaced all the contacts in the starter and that helped for awhile, Turns out the the factory battery cable from the battery to the starter motor was the problem, Replaced it with a #2 copper battery cable ( had to go aftermarket due to the factory cable now being NLA) and have been trouble free for over a year, I do have to say that getting 29 years of service out of the original battery cable just shows the quality of factory Toyota parts!
 
beretta92 said:
Even if I’m having the same issue with old vs new starter?


I’ll check this as well
Click to expand...
If the problem carried to the new part I say most likely no. Either electrical or flex plate damage. Are you sure you have the starter bolted on tight? If its cocked ever so slightly or pinched a wire under it can bind.

Try this. Have a friend try to start it and you put a volt meter on battery, if volts drop its mechanical if volts don’t drop its electrical fault..
 
DIRTBIKEUSA said:
If the problem carried to the new part I say most likely no. Either electrical or flex plate damage. Are you sure you have the starter bolted on tight? If its cocked ever so slightly or pinched a wire under it can bind.

Try this. Have a friend try to start it and you put a volt meter on battery, if volts drop its mechanical if volts don’t drop its electrical fault..
Click to expand...
Tried this. Volt went from 12.36 to 12.06 with turning the starter over.
 
If you turn the key and the starter does absolutely nothing then it's not a flex plate.

If you test your fusible link and it's fine, or replace your fusible link and it doesn't fix the problem then use some emery cloth and clean up both ends of the battery cable and the post and terminal until they're shiny.

Use a thin file or whatever you can fit to clean the starter signal wire Terminal. Clean the signal terminal on the starter itself also.

The signal wire to the starter solenoid is likely seeing too high a resistance Due to age. Thin wire pulling too many amps over too long a time. If the above cleaning hasn't worked you may consider adding a relay. Use the existing wire to trigger the magnetic coil of a relay to send power straight from the battery.

Mine kept getting worse and worse. I had the starter rebuilt with toyota parts. Helped for a little bit, rebuilt it myself, worked for a little bit. Used an aftermarket, same issue. I had already done all the cleaning, new battery, new cables, new fusible links and it kept going back to being a turd. It got so bad I replaced the ignition switch. That didn't change anything so I added a momentary switch directly powering the solenoid side and it worked 100% of the time. So I added a relay to see if maybe the signal wire could power the coil side, it worked. It was getting proper voltage but I suspect under load it struggled; and a relay was the solution. It hasn't failed me yet.

One could deduce that the dirtier the conacts and older the starter gets the more amps it tries to draw and there comes a point where the signal wire can no longer support the power needs of the starter solenoid.

Above all else, listen to @jonheld. The wisdom is invaluable.
 
beretta92 said:
Tried this. Volt went from 12.36 to 12.06 with turning the starter over.
Click to expand...
Ok no high volt drop, it’s not mechanical

It is an electrical fault. Starter relay or loose/corroded connection or wire or blown fuse/fuasbable link..
 
So I replaced the fusible link a couple days and still had the same problem. I’ll start tracing down the wiring and cleaning up everything and see how that goes.

DIRTBIKEUSA said:
Ok no high volt drop, it’s not mechanical

It is an electrical fault. Starter relay or loose/corroded connection or wire or blown fuse/fuasbable link..
Click to expand...

Where is the starter relay? Did a search and it comes up that there isn’t one?
 
beretta92 said:
Where is the starter relay? Did a search and it comes up that there isn’t one?
Click to expand...
There is no starter relay on the OEM system.
His suggestion was to add a starter relay. Several folks have done this using various methods. It is not something that I would do personally, but everyone has their own opinion regarding this.
In any case, replacing the starter solenoid contacts and plunger (if using an OEM starter) should be right behind cleaning the battery terminals. It is the most likely cause of the issue. As mentioned, there are many threads regarding this and step by step instructions on how to do it properly.
Please keep in mind that using worn contacts and plunger can lead to the plunger welding itself to the contacts and the starter continually running until you remove the positive battery terminal. That's not a fun situation.
 
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After cleaning all contact points and replacing both battery cables with no fix I ended up putting a starter relay in. Has started every time without issue.

I’m still confused with replacing the contacts and plunger on a brand new starter. If I was having the same problem on an OEM starter and a new starter wouldn’t it not be contacts? Maybe I’m missing something.

Regardless I still have the OEM starter and plan to rebuild it with new parts.
 
beretta92 said:
After cleaning all contact points and replacing both battery cables with no fix I ended up putting a starter relay in. Has started every time without issue.

I’m still confused with replacing the contacts and plunger on a brand new starter. If I was having the same problem on an OEM starter and a new starter wouldn’t it not be contacts? Maybe I’m missing something.

Regardless I still have the OEM starter and plan to rebuild it with new parts.
Click to expand...
Possibly bad parts Combo. It happens.
 
beretta92 said:
After cleaning all contact points and replacing both battery cables with no fix I ended up putting a starter relay in. Has started every time without issue.

I’m still confused with replacing the contacts and plunger on a brand new starter. If I was having the same problem on an OEM starter and a new starter wouldn’t it not be contacts? Maybe I’m missing something.

Regardless I still have the OEM starter and plan to rebuild it with new parts.
Click to expand...
FWIW, Toyota has starters that are "reconditioned". I purchased 2 starters in red and white boxes from Toyota that had pitted plungers and poorly installed contacts. I had to replace contacts and plungers in both.
I no longer assume reconditioned items are ready for installation without inspection.
 
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