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Check your nutz!
Installed Toyo MTs - First Impressions
- Thread starter Nay
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- Thread starter
- #62
Check your nutz!
No kidding. Had visually checked not long ago and two of them are gone.
Check yer nutz after every wild ride
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No kidding. Had visually checked not long ago and two of them are gone.
Check yer nutz after every wild ride
Looking don't cut it, they can look tight and be loose! I roll under with a torque wrench before each big wheeling trip, set 130, hit all of the arm/link bolts F&R suspension, then set 75 and check the trunnion nuts.
Hey Kevin
Should we be putting some lok-tite on these bolts/nutz??
Should we be putting some lok-tite on these bolts/nutz??
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The only place where I use it in this application is the studs into the housing. For it to be effective the treads need to be clean, so done at birf grease time. I don't use it on the nuts because you cant recheck torque, if a stud stretches, etc, you wont know until it fails. Most times the first part of this failure is from impact over load or not enough tension put on the studs when assembled, so the nut doesn't turn when the tension is reduced, loc-tite won't help and would prevent early detection.
Highly stressed bolted connections like this need to be clean metal to metal contact of all parts. Any paint, dirt, grease, rust, etc will reduce the connection strength and will squish out in use, reducing the tension on the fasteners without the nuts turning. When I assemble these, everything is thoroughly cleaned, assembled, torqued, then hit the studs, arms sharply with a hammer to settle them and torque again, if you want them painted, now is the time. Drive the rig, hit some good bumps, then check torque again. Once settled in place and torque rechecked like this, they rarely have chronic loosening problems, but it's still a good idea to check them occasionally.
- Thread starter
- #66
Some people are using loc-tite on the studs - the downside is if you break them on the trail you aren't getting the remaining piece out without heat.
Not that many people are carrying spares, even though we clearly all should be.
Nay
I got my Trxus tires finally. They are 35" and so far they are pretty round. I took Chad's (creeper sleeper) advise and had Les Schwab mount them and air them up to 80 psi for 24 hours. They stuck them in the back room with heat. We'll see what happens with balance. So far I like them alot. They are not really that loud and the 80 seems to handle nicer than before... ... I had really crappy tires before..
I do not have a lift on yet (still waiting on Slee's 4" or FOR's kit, both are on backorder)... I am surprised that they fit and also they do not rub when just on the highway. I went on some dirt roads with big ruts today and they rubbed a few times . I am really amazed that they don't rub more than they do... They are big tires.
Initial impressions.... me likey....
I got my Trxus tires finally. They are 35" and so far they are pretty round. I took Chad's (creeper sleeper) advise and had Les Schwab mount them and air them up to 80 psi for 24 hours. They stuck them in the back room with heat. We'll see what happens with balance. So far I like them alot. They are not really that loud and the 80 seems to handle nicer than before... ... I had really crappy tires before..
I do not have a lift on yet (still waiting on Slee's 4" or FOR's kit, both are on backorder)... I am surprised that they fit and also they do not rub when just on the highway. I went on some dirt roads with big ruts today and they rubbed a few times . I am really amazed that they don't rub more than they do... They are big tires.
Initial impressions.... me likey....
- Thread starter
- #68
Nay
I got my Trxus tires finally. They are 35" and so far they are pretty round. I took Chad's (creeper sleeper) advise and had Les Schwab mount them and air them up to 80 psi for 24 hours. They stuck them in the back room with heat. We'll see what happens with balance. So far I like them alot. They are not really that loud and the 80 seems to handle nicer than before... ... I had really crappy tires before..
I do not have a lift on yet (still waiting on Slee's 4" or FOR's kit, both are on backorder)... I am surprised that they fit and also they do not rub when just on the highway. I went on some dirt roads with big ruts today and they rubbed a few times . I am really amazed that they don't rub more than they do... They are big tires.
Initial impressions.... me likey....
Good deal, I don't like how loud the Toyos are, it's a major increase over the trxus. Had a chance to drive in 18" of snow today (we were supposed to get 2"
) with the base being pretty icy due to the still relatively warm ground. The trxus are better, they just stick to everything, with the Toyos you can get some tail wag and have some fun - they do very well, but you just don't feel quite as planted.I am happy enough with the winter part (had them now on icy hardpack, 18", and icy conditions from freezing drizzle) - they don't pull into ruts as much as the Toyos do and handled 18" of powder with zero issues, the lateral traction just is not as good.
I think I am going to groove the Toyos following the factory siping lines where they angle into the tread blocks to see if I can get them to quiet down a bit by separating those the big lugs. This will probably also increase winter and offroad traction.
Overall right now I'd say I think the trxus track better and are a lot quieter. That is probably worth a difference in roundness - report back on your results with the 80 PSI in a warm room method.
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So far the tires are pretty smooth. I can't remember how much Les Schwab said they put on to balance the tires... It is smoother than my old tires. I do still have a pull to the right and will get another alignment check after lifting the truck. When I had it checked before the alignment was OK... Not sure why the pull to the right. I am running 32 PSI in the tires.... I think this is where you said to run them. I have rebuilt the front end with new rotors, brakes, bearings, grease etc....
i'll add to this thread.
Took my 35" truxus in to be rebalanced again on Friday. They weren't bad but i had a little wobble feeling around 45 mph that would smooth out at highway speed.
Anyways, the guy came back to me and said 3 of the tires were perfect and didn't need a thing. One on the other hand required a lot of weight. That is the exact same thing that happened with my set of 33" truxus, 3 of 4 were perfect and one was a pain.
This is after wheeling the crap out of them and driving on the road for about 5,000 miles.
I'll take the slight wobble (i actually may try the heat and a lot of air trick) because these tires are awesome off road. IMHO.
Took my 35" truxus in to be rebalanced again on Friday. They weren't bad but i had a little wobble feeling around 45 mph that would smooth out at highway speed.
Anyways, the guy came back to me and said 3 of the tires were perfect and didn't need a thing. One on the other hand required a lot of weight. That is the exact same thing that happened with my set of 33" truxus, 3 of 4 were perfect and one was a pain.
This is after wheeling the crap out of them and driving on the road for about 5,000 miles.
I'll take the slight wobble (i actually may try the heat and a lot of air trick) because these tires are awesome off road. IMHO.
Try swapping the two front tires. I had a tire pull issue with one of my old truxus set. If i swapped the front tires it would track straight. Don't know why.
Could one of your pistons a brake caliper be sticking causing the pull? I had this problem, rebuilt the calipers and it was still sticking. Check it
Did they try breaking the beads and rotating the tire on the rim 90*? If you try that a couple times it might seat up better or move the weight inconsistencies of the tire and rim? to offset each other. Worth a try if they didn't do it already.
- Thread starter
- #74
35's
F.O.R.
rubbing
It's the width of the Toyos at the tread - they are a much wider tire than a typical 35x12.5 due to the squared off tread pattern. No rubbing with the 35" Trxus MT's I had on previously.
The only difference between F.O.R. with a 2" bumpstop drop and any other kit with a 2" bumpstop drop (i.e. designed for 35's) is the F.O.R. shocks don't have as much travel so you don't get as much angle into the wheel well at full articulation. A wider tire will make up for this in a hurry
It is not noticeable during wheeling, I never felt it. Just the visual on the inside of the wheel well.
no they didn't. He said he was going to pull off all the weights and "dynamic" balance the tire by putting sticky weights in the center. It drives pretty smooth now so i will leave it be. If it starts back up, i'm going to order some dyna beads, pump it up to 80 psi and leave in a hot room for a while, then see where i'm at.
It's the width of the Toyos at the tread - they are a much wider tire than a typical 35x12.5 due to the squared off tread pattern. No rubbing with the 35" Trxus MT's I had on previously.
The only difference between F.O.R. with a 2" bumpstop drop and any other kit with a 2" bumpstop drop (i.e. designed for 35's) is the F.O.R. shocks don't have as much travel so you don't get as much angle into the wheel well at full articulation. A wider tire will make up for this in a hurry
It is not noticeable during wheeling, I never felt it. Just the visual on the inside of the wheel well.
Just a data point...
No rubbing at all in the front with Toyo 315/OME med/and stock bumpstops. (I haven't been able to make it happen during the last 2 years.) The rear on the other hand required a drop to accomodate full stuff. [hijack off]
and 
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