Installed new Plugs and air filter today (1 Viewer)

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Plugs went in easily and the truck runs better after 138k with originals. I just love working on the cruiser - everything is accessible and well laid out.

For those that have not done this yet it's very simple but you may want to have a couple of "special" tools handy.

my tool list:

1/4" ratchet drive
1/4" 3" extension
1/4" 10mm socket
1/4" 10mm deep socket
3/8" ratchet drive
3/8" 16mm Spark Plug Socket
3/8" 3" extension
3/8" 6" extension
3/8" 9" extension
3/8" universal extension
Shop rag
Diet Mountain dew

Passenger side is super easy to access - tons of room. Just remove the black box by unplugging 4 small hoses and removing 2 10mm bolts. Release the clamps on the engine intake and airbox output - Boom access to the first 4 cylinders. Remove the coil pack bolts and pull the packs up to reveal the spark plug. I recommend doing this one at a time to minimize mistakes.

The drivers side is more challenging as there is a bracket covering half of 6, IMG_2247.jpg
all of 7 and half of 8. No problem, undo two 10mm bolts and the bracket is free. Plugs 5 and 6 are a breeze. Plug 7 and 8 needs a "special" tool:

Plug 7 Tool
IMG_2251.jpg

Plug 8 Tool
IMG_2254.jpg

I was able to use a couple of differnt extension lengths with the universal and got 7 and 8 out easily. Start to finish including the air filter was 70 minutes.
IMG_2254.jpg
IMG_2251.jpg
IMG_2247.jpg
 
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Nottajeep

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The plug DS closest to the firewall is a MF'er!
I have mine hand tight until I get a special tool to wrench it down a little further. No misfires in 3k miles so I think it's not an issue. I think the torque spec is 30lbs or something anyway.
 
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The plug DS closest to the firewall is a MF'er!
I have mine hand tight until I get a special tool to wrench it down a little further. No misfires in 3k miles so I think it's not an issue. I think the torque spec is 30lbs or something anyway.
Use the tool configuration i used - it's no sweat.
 

TheFuzz

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Excellent post Rob! Great write up - the tool layout is much appreciated.
 
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Thanks for the pics. Having the right universal/extension combo is half the battle. I'll admit - I'm a little leery of doing this - since I stripped DS rear plug threads on a 4Runner 3.0 15 years ago. I'm definitely a finger-tight guy ever since.

Do you all use any dielectric on the plug connections? What about Anti-seize on the plug threads?
 
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X2 on the tools list. I wish everyone would post the exact tool requirements (and extra special tools you "could" use that would make the job easier).
 

bamabrock

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I'm running the OEM Denso Iridium, 0.044. All the plugs came gapped.

Here is the passenger side with the "black box" removed, on top of the intake to reveal plugs 1-4.
Make sure the recheck the gaps. Plugs often get squished during transit. :hillbilly:
 

tabraha

Hello My Name is: TAD
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The plug DS closest to the firewall is a MF'er!
I have mine hand tight until I get a special tool to wrench it down a little further. No misfires in 3k miles so I think it's not an issue. I think the torque spec is 30lbs or something anyway.
I pulled that one with the plug on my Rhino and it decided to crap out on me back in the middle of nowhere on a trail. Took me awhile to figure out what the miss was coming from. Voila! It was just flopping around. I forgot to go back in there and wrench it down. :whoops:

ETA: Thanks for the pics of the extension setup OP. That will save some time and frustration for sure!
 
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Thanks for the pics. Having the right universal/extension combo is half the battle. I'll admit - I'm a little leery of doing this - since I stripped DS rear plug threads on a 4Runner 3.0 15 years ago. I'm definitely a finger-tight guy ever since.

Do you all use any dielectric on the plug connections? What about Anti-seize on the plug threads?
I think with spark plugs the way to do it (and my technic) is to hand tighten. I place the plug in the tool and remove the drive handle, insert into plug hole and proceed to tighten. You should be able to feel the threads pretty well. The trick is to wiggle the tool as you turn. Once the plug "touches down" then attach the drive to torque it.

I do not use any kind of lube, anti seize or grease. It is not prescribed by any of the procedures by Toyota or Denso. Modern metallurgy on the plugs and heads doesn't require it. After 138k on originals they removed quite easily.
 
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I do not use any kind of lube, anti seize or grease. It is not prescribed by any of the procedures by Toyota or Denso. Modern metallurgy on the plugs and heads doesn't require it.
Not to mention the plug grounds to the block (via the head), so any film acting as a dielectric could inhibit spark.

The plug also transfers heat back to the head via the threads, so a loose plug could become a hot plug and a source of ping/detonation.'

There, I got the word 'loose' into another thread!
 

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